aaz into a mk1 cabrio build

[giulianot]

So brought the short block to the engine builder today and we took of the pan and we saw this,







as you can tell there is alot of damage and the main cap bolts were not stretch bolts and were torqued to 48 ft-lbs . I really dont know what caused this failure. the engine builder is giving me a full warranty and is purchasing a new short block to rebuild for me. i should have the new short block back in a month or so.

[giulianot]

The engine builder is buying a used short block from the junkers and boring it out. He also needs to replace two pistons since they are cracked and .5mm over (+.035). I am also going to machine a flat on the used aaz crank to fit a tdi crank sprocket. AAZ crank noses were inherently weak and were changed to a stronger design for the TDI's. As for the cap bolts i just came to a new discovery, there is an engine serial number specific cap bolt to use, prior to AAZ 560 000 you use N 102 638 01 which is a m10x65 bolt, and after AAZ 560 001 you use N 901 300 01 which is a AM10x80 bolt. I wish my engine builder new this before he did my motor

[935racer]

Geez man you have had quite the troubles. At least your engine builder is manning up and fixing his screw up.

[giulianot]

YA, this motor has brought me more pain then joy! Since the damage internally was so extensive the engine builder opted to replace everything. He also has a lead on a vw factory rebuild AAZ, which I personally would prefer. In my opinion nobody can rebuild them as well as VW. My question is,did i sheer are the factory cap bolts good enough for 23.5 : 1 compression ratio and an extra 30 psi boost? Are ARP cap bolts necessary in my application?

[935racer]

YA, this motor has brought me more pain then joy! Since the damage internally was so extensive the engine builder opted to replace everything. He also has a lead on a vw factory rebuild AAZ, which I personally would prefer. In my opinion nobody can rebuild them as well as VW. My question is,did i sheer are the factory cap bolts good enough for 23.5 : 1 compression ratio and an extra 30 psi boost? Are ARP cap bolts necessary in my application?

I would put ARP's in, I have them on my 1.6, the only mod to my bottom end  and I am just shy of 200WHP.

[stewardc]

ARP all round is a necessity. I put them in my AAZ.

[giulianot]

Not much progress lately. My engine builder has found a good used short block and is starting the rebuilding process all over again. This time I will be using ARP cap bolts, as they are much stronger. I also have to machine the crank nose to fit a tdi crank pulley. AAZ crank nose were inherently weak and were know to spin on the pulley. While the engine is being built im sourcing a better method of cooling the oil, like a thermostatically controlled front mount oil cooler, rather than the stock oil-to-water heat exchanger.  I wanna dissipate that heat into the atmosphere not the coolant.  Im ready to upgrade my stock t3 turbo now, its ok but it only makes boost to 23-24 psi reliably so....... im looking into a custom t3/t4 hybrid that can make 30 psi reliably!

[stewardc]

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=274

[burn_your_money]

Hopefully you get a block soon. Look at the volvo 740 turbo cars for an oil cooler. It's bolt on. (I think I got that right)

The heat exchanger also heats the oil to reduce engine wear when the car is cold.

[giulianot]

So I've made some progress. My engine builder had the crank magna-fluxed and polished and looked great all except the crank nose. :mad:







the previous wrench flinging monkey mechanic decided to fix the wobbly crank by drilling a hole though the crank sprocket and into the crank nose and inserting a dowel !  what were they thinkin!

so to fix it right i had my little bro "the machinist" weld the old key hole up and machine a flat on the crank to accept the stronger tdi style crank sprocket









heres a vid of indicating a crank



and my new crank sprocket


and it all off the the engine builder for final assembly of the 2nd short block

 

[burn_your_money]

Progress

Looking good man. I'll have to come over for a spin once you get it going (again)

[giulianot]

I finally got the shot block back from the engine builder, this time with arp main cap studs  First off I cleaned all the head studs and the re-lubricated all the threads with moly lube, and installed them in my new block.





I installed the new custom pressure plate that I bought from eurodrive cluthes. They lighted the flywheel and made me a kevlar disk









Then I decided to move on to the top end. Although the piston protrusion past deck is .029, which calls for a one hole head gasket , I went with a 3 hole head gasket to lower th cr slightly . I torqued the head bolts to 100 ft-lbs







Then the trany went on so i can find my timing marks and injector pump was timed to .96mm










and now I'm  waiting for the lower cover to come from the vw dealer



 I'm dropin the motor in the shell Thursday, it should be running in a week

[Dr. Diesel]

and then we'll go autocrossing!.... in your car... because mine isn't done.  :evil:

[giulianot]

I cant wait to autocross this car! soon enough!
I got the oil cooler today in the mail and it looks like it will work well. Only one problem, the oil cooler sandwich plate is thinner than my stock oil cooler. So I have to run the shorter style oil filter nipple off a vw without a oil cooler.



and I got my new lower timing belt cover

[Dr. Diesel]

if your cooler is anything like the volvo sandwich plates, you'll find the no cooler threaded pipe is way too short. You'll probably end up having to remove a half an inch of length from the current cooler-equipped pipe.