So, I'm sure this dead horse has been repeated flogged, but in all my searching, I've yet to get a definitve answer.
This is what I'm asking:
Is the Bosch IDI injection pump rebuild kit:
DGK 126
1 467 010 059
made of Viton or just some generic rubber.
I got bent over a few months ago by GreaseWorks.org for $50 for one of their 'Viton IP Rebuild kits'. The box came, and it was in a standard Bosch box. It lacked the "DGK 126" designation, but it had the 1 467 010 059 part number on it, which is apparently the same number as the DGK kit.
I was a bit perturbed when I discovered that the kit did NOT include the main shaft seal. Nonetheless, I sent the pump out to be resealed (red---rider ebay name). He did a great job and included the mainshaft seal for an extra $5. The pump went back on the car, and went out the door. I sold the car on ebay for $4000 (not too bad). That was several months ago: haen't heard back since.
I've now got another car on my hands. I sold the car to a friend about a month and a half ago. It's a 1991 Jetta EcoDiesel (some of you may have seen my posts about concerns over the operating temps). Anyway, she brought the car back last week for some fuel consumption issues. She claimed poor fuel economy (37-39 MPG), but barely put 1000 miles on the car. So, I fixed a few minor leaks (leaking injector, return line, end plug etc), and am now addressing the fuel gauge which only reads 3/4 tank when you fill it to the brim. I figured that would solve it, and I'd drive it for a week to get a good reading on the MPG, since I only put about 200 miles on it before I sold it.
Anyhoo, as I'm cheking the timing on the IP, I notice that it's leaking from the cold-start lever (yes: the dreaded). It didn't leak a drop when I sold it to her, but now ALL the local gas stations are selling the ULSD, so that may be the culprit.
No biggie, I found out I can just buy the seal kit for the cold-start lever (068-198-052A available from your local dealer or WorldImpex.com: thanks TurboDieselTech). But here's what I'm thinking: the girl is a bit "hippie" minded and likes the idea of BioDiesel. That's cool and all, but I'm afraid that even if I fix the current leak, it's gonna start leaking in other spots down the road (distributor head, accelerator lever). In fact, I think that she's already running B20 in the car right now (at least it smells that way). So, I'm thinking a permanent solution might be best: a complete reseal of the pump. The thing is, if she wants to continue running biodiesel, and perhaps in even higher concentrations, then she'll really want to go with all Vition.
BUT, to be honest, I don't really believe that the kit that GreaseWorks.org sells is ANY different from the standard DGK-126 kit that I can get anywhere for like $10 (especially since the picture that they have is of an actual DGK 125 kit).
I've read in posts elsewhere, that GreaseWorks can only confirm that it's Viton by "word of their dealer." If that's the case, then I can see no reason to buy from them when it costs 5X as much as anywhere else, and there is little to no factual confirmation that it is indeed Viton. Even if it were, GreaseWorks never seems to have them in stock, and it takes 1-3 weeks to get them. I want this car out of my yard this week!
Any thoughts/comments/etc from those with knowledge/experiece with the various kits, or the GreaseWorks "VITON" kit specifically would be immensly appreciated.
Viton material generally has a greyish, sometimes brownish, purple look about it. Standard seals that are nitrile based are black. If it is not black (nitrile) then it is probably viton. Read this,
http://www.pspglobal.com/ It may not be necessary to go with viton for your application.
All of the Bosch kits made after the mid 90's are biodiesel compatible. Did Greaseworks send any petroleum jelly with the previous kit?
Andrew
No, which is why it hurt so much. :wink:
All of the Bosch kits made after the mid 90's are biodiesel compatible. Did Greaseworks send any petroleum jelly with the previous kit?
Andrew
Are you sure about that? Not that I don't trust you, but some other confirmation would be good.
In the meantime, I called my local diesel shop. As suspected, they sell the Bosch DGK 126 kit for a mere $10 (plus $10 shipping to them). I'm gonna order 3 sets to help defray the cost of shipping.
I just can't believe what people (by people I mean Greaseworks) get for these seal kits.
Bosch keeps up on what their seals need to do....biodiesel rated long ago, ULSD tolerant now.
They might not use viton, I don't know but they take other things into concideration like shaft wear.
What good would a viton seal be if it causes too much wear on the shaft?
They upgraded the shaft seal last time I got one (new part number) so they are keeping up-to-date on what makes the best seal.
Just to post an update. I bought 3 kits from my local diesel shop here in Nashville, TN. I bought 3 of the DGK 126 kits made by Bosch. Unfortunately, they did not have the input shaft seal, but I can buy those individually. They charged me $38 for 3 sets after freight and TN taxes (10%!)
Anyway, the kits I have EXACTLY all the same comonents (right down to the missing Input shaft seal) that these kits have, which are advertized to be Biodiesel resistant:
http://www.veg-injection-service.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=16They also came in the exact same box as this kit from Greaseworks advertised as Viton:
http://www.greaseworks.org/index.php?module=pncommerce&func=itemview&ItemID=12So, if you need a seal kit, are worried about biodiesel compatability, and have a local diesel shop, you may try the DGK 126 kit so that you don't have to buy some anal lube when you buy that kit from Greaseworks.
Another possiblity is the DGK 121 Kit. I think it's the exact same thing as the DGK 126, except it includes the 17mm input shaft seal that is sold separately and not included in the DGK 126 Kit.
Thinking about it now, I still wonder if there isn't a difference. For example, in this IP rebuild diary:
In French:
http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1573In English:
http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6694The seal kit illustrated comes in a smaller box with the Bosch number:
1 467 010 059
This is the exact same number on the kit that I got from Greaseworks, but the box looked a bit different. The contents look the same, but the original kit I got from Greaseworks did NOT have the input shaft seal. I dont' recall the color of the seals, but in this DGK 126 kit I got, there are several green seals, and black seals. I've read elsewhere that VITON is often brown, purple or black. In the kit in the rebuild, the seals are brown and black, in the kit I just bought, the seals are green and black. Any insights into that?
We use a lot of different seals at work. Quick visual as a general rule (although there are some exceptions) Buna is black, viton is brown (some can be so dark as to look almost black until you look closely). Viton should have a single yellow dot on any o-rings regardless of colour.
I think the DGK 121 kit also has an o-ring for the LDA on a turbo pump.
I dont really care about the price, I was using these as an example of 2 different kits and their claims to being compatible/incompatible with ULSD/BD.
Im looking specifically for input on weather the stock Bosch kit will survive under the influence of ULSD/BD.
I dont really care about the price, I was using these as an example of 2 different kits and their claims to being compatible/incompatible with ULSD/BD.
Im looking specifically for input on weather the stock Bosch kit will survive under the influence of ULSD/BD.
I'm going to go with yes, as mentioned above you can bet Bosch has had their seal kits BIO compatible for some time.
I dont know for sure but that seems to be the general consensus here.
ok cool
I just talked to a local diesel place and the guy said he just had someone buy a seal for a leaky pump head and now he has the pump in his shop with mangled internals :lol: ...hope that doesent happen to me...
ok cool
I just talked to a local diesel place and the guy said he just had someone buy a seal for a leaky pump head and now he has the pump in his shop with mangled internals :lol: ...hope that doesent happen to me...
What was the cause of the mangled internals did he say?
It's usually water.
I think he tried to replace the seal himself and didnt put the pump back together properly and it went tits up when he went to start the car.