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VNT-17 or VNT-20 or something else? 1.6TD buildup...
by
the4ork
on 29 Jun, 2007 09:14
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ok so im rebuilding my 1.6TD...
new 1mm oversized pistons (may lower cr, but want to look more into it)
giles LDA pump
headstuds (if i can find some)
GTD nozzles
2.5" exh
ported & polished head
? turbo
Spearco air/water intercooler /w air/air & electric peltier watercooling
power goals 150WHP MINIMUM, i think ~25-30psi is in the neighborhood of what i'd like to be running since i will have pretty efficient intercooling
drivability goals: daily driver, so i want to be able to have a decent mid-range, dont have to have gobs of bottom end, but a nice mid range... if im redlining at 5k i'd like to at least be coming out of vacuum by 2400-2500 rpm, anything after 3k will feel laggy on the street, plus the earlier it spools the less i have to rev the crap out of the motor
i've also thought of going with a GT2052:
compressor
wheel diameter: 36.1 Ind 52.2 Exd
A/R: .51
Trim: 48
Turbine:
Wheel diameter: 47mm
Trim: 72
A/R: .50
Wastegated
HP 140-225
Displacement 1.4L-2.0L
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#1
by
rabbit GTI/GTD
on 29 Jun, 2007 09:24
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Come out of vacuum? Diesels dont produce vacuum, so you dont have to worry about that. myself, i would just go with a good K 14 for a daily driver, spools nice and quick, What does anyone else think??
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#2
by
the4ork
on 29 Jun, 2007 09:33
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you know what i mean, im used to 8v gasser turbo's
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#3
by
Black Smokin' Diesel
on 29 Jun, 2007 11:04
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Skip the GTD nozzles and use some mercedes 300TD nozzles. More flow for the same price.
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#4
by
subsonic
on 29 Jun, 2007 13:26
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headbolts.com has a bunch of the ARP stuff cheap. He may not have it listed, but if you e-mail him he should have it.
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#5
by
rallydiesel
on 29 Jun, 2007 13:56
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VNT 15 would be better than a 17 or 20 I think. They are pretty pricey though and you would have to do some messing around with a wastegate actuator or make some kind of VNT control system. I don't know how much fabricating is required in terms of the exhaust manifold or if it bolts on fairly easily.
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#6
by
Audi80
on 29 Jun, 2007 14:22
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Go for VNT20!
I´m using now gt23v, but I´d say that vnt20 (which I had before) is better for daily driver (better mid range)
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#7
by
the4ork
on 30 Jun, 2007 21:00
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Go for VNT20!
I´m using now gt23v, but I´d say that vnt20 (which I had before) is better for daily driver (better mid range)
i like what this guy is saying...
did you use it on a 1.6?
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#8
by
Audi80
on 01 Jul, 2007 01:07
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Yep, 1.6
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#9
by
jimfoo
on 01 Jul, 2007 08:29
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oops
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#10
by
jimfoo
on 01 Jul, 2007 08:30
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I have a 17 on my 1.9. It is making my max set boost of 15 PSI at 3000 rpm.
The interesting thing is it still makes 15 psi @ 3000 rpm with the vanes wide open, so it would easily make more without my mech VNT control. It makes 8psi @ 2000 rpm, but I'm not sure the vanes close completely with my setup, but it drives great none the less.
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#11
by
RabbitJockey
on 01 Jul, 2007 11:13
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aaz head
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#12
by
the4ork
on 02 Jul, 2007 01:49
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aaz head
are you saying i should use an aaz head? i dunno what thats from but im using a mechanical lifter head/block
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#13
by
ezekiel
on 02 Jul, 2007 12:31
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peltiers = not worth even a thought. They're very very inefficient, you'll still need a water pump to cool the hot side of the peltier, which will mean you're now loading your electrical system with a peltier AND a water pump. May as well just go with a basic AWIC or AAIC, they're both tried and true.
GT2052 won't come close to giving you 25-30 psi. 25psi has a pressure ratio of 2.8 (using 1.5psi pressure drop across I/C). 30psi is 3.14.
your CMf at 25psi at your 5k rpm is going to be about 21.4 (using 110degree intake temp and 85% volumetric efficiency) that's assuming you can get the intake temps down that far. Your CMf requirements will go down as intake temps go up, but that also means you power goes down.
30psi CMf is about about 24.1
CMf is corrected mass air flow, btw, measured in lbs/in
here's a GT2259, it'll get you to 25psi relatively efficiently, but won't get you to 30psi, you could probably get 28psi out of it, and that's pushing it at hard as possible.
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#14
by
jtanguay
on 02 Jul, 2007 14:15
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the peltier system could work, but would be very costly. you would need at least 20 peltier's leeching heat from the coolant/exhaust in an effort to create electricity using seebeck effect. free energy right there, but like i said, $$$$$$$$$$$. so better to go with AWIC.
I have some 350w peltier's and man.. if you can get rid of the heat on the hot side, these thing's can freeze water VERY quickly...
