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#15
by
busguy71
on 08 May, 2007 06:30
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I'm ready to get the head off, but dont have the right tool to take the bolts out. Can anyone tell me what tool that is? 12 point allen socket, what size? or is it VW specific? I just got the cam off and found a cracked lifter :roll: here we go.....
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#16
by
tylernt
on 08 May, 2007 07:20
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12mm "triplesquare" is the search term I used to find my tool. I tried using a Torx, bad idea, stripped the tool and two head bolts that then had to be drilled out.
Snap-On sells it but it's darn expensive. I ended up getting mine from some no-name place online a lot cheaper. Sorry I don't remember where now, I probably just used Froogle and picked the cheapest place.
Autohausaz.com sells new solid lifters for about $20.
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#17
by
burn_your_money
on 08 May, 2007 09:04
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canadian auto parts sells new lifters for $10/piece
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#18
by
busguy71
on 08 May, 2007 10:31
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cool, now I know what to look for
thanks! When we talk about these engines having the 11mm or 12mm head bolts, is it the diameter of the bolt or just the size the bolt head?
Just finished changing out my rack-n-pinion, swaped a 3+E trans onto the motor, and now I'm cleaning and re-packing the cv joints. All this for a car that you could "drive anywhere, excellent running condition!" ...boy did I get hosed :x
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#19
by
tylernt
on 08 May, 2007 10:55
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I think 11mm or 12mm refers to the thread size, but I bought a 12mm tool and it fit my head bolts, so apparently the thread size and tool size are the same for this application.
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#20
by
busguy71
on 09 May, 2007 06:01
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got the head off...
and it has cracks between every valve. :x
So it would probably cost more to fix than to buy a new one
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#21
by
tylernt
on 09 May, 2007 07:18
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got the head off...
and it has cracks between every valve. :x
So it would probably cost more to fix than to buy a new one
Not necessarily. How wide are the cracks? If they are small then they are fine. Many heads are running around with cracks between the valves with no problems. They are only a problem if they extend into the water jacket. Here is a cross-section:
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#22
by
busguy71
on 09 May, 2007 12:33
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Heres a pic, they all pretty much look like this. I got an estimate from a machine shop for a valve job and its $250-300, plus more to deck it, plus welding..... and a new head is $395. Or maybe I'll spring for a whole new motor.....
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#23
by
tylernt
on 09 May, 2007 12:43
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That's pretty small. I would check it for warpage and if it's less than the max allowable in the Bentley I would just slap a new gasket on there and call it good. My head was a little warped, just under the maximum allowable and the head gasket is holding so far. It's cracked between valves too.
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#24
by
busguy71
on 09 May, 2007 13:06
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well that makes me feel a little better anyway :lol: thanks for the input
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#25
by
gldgti
on 09 May, 2007 19:27
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minor warping may be dealt with in a number of ways...
my dads head was a little warped - evidenced by a leak at one point. He fixed it by adjusting the tightening sequence to put more pressure on the places where the head had "lifted". his car has been runnign around with no leaks or other problems for a good 12 months now.
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#26
by
tylernt
on 09 May, 2007 19:31
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He fixed it by adjusting the tightening sequence to put more pressure on the places where the head had "lifted"
Interesting. If you could afford it though, I really think ARP head studs are the way to go. If they can withstand 30+PSI of boost, they should be able to keep a warped N/A head clamped.
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#27
by
gldgti
on 09 May, 2007 19:39
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this is a total thread hijack, im sorry but...
i live in australia, what would be a good way for me to get hold of some arp head bolts and what would i be looking at price wise?