I have a 1.6NA in my Vanagon and the valve cover leaks. I want to remove it, check if it is bent and replace the gasket, maybe with some sealant. This is new to me, so I want to know
1) It appears I can do this with the engine in is that right?
2) do I need to drain the oil first, given that the engine is at 50* slant?
3) what is the procedure? 4) Are the aftermarket replacement valve covers going to be any good and should I just order a new one?
Thanks for your help.
S
Look for the reuseable rubber gasket.
From a '94 Jetta ABA block.
Victor brand has the good stiff ones.
I have a 1.6NA in my Vanagon and the valve cover leaks. I want to remove it, check if it is bent and replace the gasket, maybe with some sealant. This is new to me, so I want to know
1) It appears I can do this with the engine in is that right?
2) do I need to drain the oil first, given that the engine is at 50* slant?
3) what is the procedure? 4) Are the aftermarket replacement valve covers going to be any good and should I just order a new one?
Thanks for your help.
S
1) Correct. There is no need to remove the engine to replace the valve cover gasket.
2) Nope, no need to drain the oil even with the Vanagon installation angle.
3) As fatmobile said, the single piece rubber gaskets for the ABA are a nice upgrade. If you use one, though, you will need to replace the shouldered studs with un-shouldered ones.
I also learned something from Andrew on how to keep it from leaking near the sprocket.
The #1 cam cap is a metal on metal seal.
Oil can migrate from around the cam,
and between the cap and head.
I pull the #1 cap and use a very light skim of permagasket 2,
it never hardens. Then torque it back on.
Then a spot of ultra black in the corners.
1) Correct. There is no need to remove the engine to replace the valve cover gasket.
2) Nope, no need to drain the oil even with the Vanagon installation angle.
3) As fatmobile said, the single piece rubber gaskets for the ABA are a nice upgrade. If you use one, though, you will need to replace the shouldered studs with un-shouldered ones.
Thanks everyone - new to all of this so to confirm the gasket set posted by sgnimj96 contains everything I need?
When I was replacing the muffler I was warned about breaking off the manifold studs on the exhaust ports. Will these valve cover studs be as difficult to get out, or will the fact that they are constantly in oil make it easier to remove? I don't want to end up somewhere where I have a broken stud and no way to get my van to someone who can help. I work on the street as I do not have a garage.
@fatmobile - I am not sure I understand the #1 cam cap, etc but I will take a look at my service manual. What you explain does make sense - that metal-on-metal would still allow oil migration unless the two surfaces mated exceptionally well.
That set appears to contain the non-shouldered studs so it should be all you need. The valve cover studs are unlikely to break. $h!t happens sometimes, though.
The studs in that set aren't shouldered,
but they aren't threaded in the middle either.
The nut will stop when it hits the bald spot,
even if the gasket isn't squeezed tight.
A nut will keep the nut away from the threads.
I use set screws, blue locktited in, instead of the studs that come with the set.
I don't think you will find that trick in the manual.
It's something Andrew (AKA libbydiesel) discovered.
The 2 surfaces aren't very smoothly machined.