but if I were to change the thermostat, would a lower temp thermostat and lower temp fan switch be a good idea? someone said they were supposed to match up or something??
I changed out my t-stat and rad fan switch to lower temp versions. I did it because I have warped too many cylinder heads from overheating. You will see a reduction in fuel economy, but that's a hit I'm willing to take.
My thermostat is 169*F and my rad fan switch is 186*F. I think. Memory not too good.
Anyway, my gauge never makes it to halfway.
i just bought a manual rad fan switch
it will turn on at any temp i want
from 0C-120C
my current idea for its use will be a homebrew water intercooler
. it will be nice for those days where the pump doesnt need to be run, etc.
I changed out my t-stat and rad fan switch to lower temp versions. I did it because I have warped too many cylinder heads from overheating. You will see a reduction in fuel economy, but that's a hit I'm willing to take.
My thermostat is 169*F and my rad fan switch is 186*F. I think. Memory not too good. Anyway, my gauge never makes it to halfway.
I've already turned up my fuel and boost so economy is slowly going out the window as it is...
would you happen to know part numbers for the lower temp rad fan switch??
on the lighter side, I changed my oil cooler (finally) and it appears that the oil in my coolant bottle is of no more...
Stock 2-prong (1-speed rad fan without A/C) is 197*F, part 201-0809. A cooler one (179*F) is 201-1545.
I only found one 3-prong (2-speed rad fan with A/C) switch of unknown temp, which is 201-1266.
The above numbers come from Autozone but I got all my stuff at Bow-wow, if that helps.
The above numbers come from Autozone but I got all my stuff at Bow-wow, if that helps.
Eh??
canadian up here eh.... we aint got no aw-toe-zone
we get partsource, crappytire, princess auto... maybe the stealership but that's about it.
Eh??
canadian up here eh.... we aint got no aw-toe-zone
Lol. Well, the good news is you should be able to find a Bow-wow since I know they have a Canadian website.
Eh??
canadian up here eh.... we aint got no aw-toe-zone
Lol. Well, the good news is you should be able to find a Bow-wow since I know they have a Canadian website.
yup.. found it.... by looking at their canadian website... but it'd only take me a week to drive to BC :p
I wouldn't really trust the thermostats myself, unless it was brand new.
If your thermostat works properly, you wouldn't even need a rad until it opens. I had one winter where I couldn't get a Honda Civic to put out any heat. I went through 4 different 195 degree thermostats from various jobbers, and couldn't even get the windshield to defrost completely. I finally went to a Honda dealer and asked for a 195 degree thermostat. They only sold one rated at 160 degrees. I tried it anyway. Instant normal heater function. Soooo... just because your thermostat says 195 doesn't mean it will actually keep your engine at that temperature. By the way, the pot of water on the stove test showed that each of the 195 degree thermostats was opening within 10 degrees of the rating, so I can't really explain why I was having all the problems.
By the way, the pot of water on the stove test showed that each of the 195 degree thermostats was opening within 10 degrees of the rating, so I can't really explain why I was having all the problems.
The T-stats most likely were not closing at the proper temp.
Some T-stats once heated up won't completly close until
the motor is stone cold. Which can cause the motor to
take a really long time to heat up.
guess the moral of this thread is... trust the stealer for good t-stats. lol
I thought I would post this so people know about the fan operating temps etc.
Interesting. If your thermostat is totally closed, then that should never happen because water never flows through the radiator. Unless the little hole in the t-stat that prevents airlock is letting cold coolant through. Or there is enough heat transfer from the air going past the radiator to cool the bypass hose and the head itself.
Yes and really cold ass air is also reaching the oil filter. -30C at 100kph equals to about -60C with wind factor :shock: Even the oil temperature is lower.
-30C at 100kph equals to about -60C with wind factor
Wind chill describes the temperature a person will sense at a given speed/temp. Its the sensation of heat loss and is related to moisture evaporting from your skin.
To your radiator, -30C at 100kph equals -30C, unless your radiator is wet on the outside.
-30C at 100kph equals to about -60C with wind factor
Wind chill describes the temperature a person will sense at a given speed/temp. Its the sensation of heat loss and is related to moisture evaporting from your skin.
To your radiator, -30C at 100kph equals -30C, unless your radiator is wet on the outside.
Well the wind chill for -30C @ 100kph is -54C.
regardless of whether or not your radiator can 'sweat', 100kph wind is still going to cool it faster than as if it were parked.
Well the wind chill for -30C @ 100kph is -54C.
regardless of whether or not your radiator can 'sweat', 100kph wind is still going to cool it faster than as if it were parked.
Right, but that's mass flow of air through the radiator, not a lower temperature of the air.