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#45
by
Tmarkle
on 29 Apr, 2017 17:27
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Were you driving the car when the belt snapped or was it idling? If idling, you probably have to replace a couple valves but probably no other damage.
How old was the belt?
Idling. Previous owner (whom I know and trust) said 10xxx miles, but I had to replace the front seal in the IP because it was leaking diesel, and I wonder if that shortened the life significantly.
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#46
by
ORCoaster
on 29 Apr, 2017 18:57
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Pull the head and I bet you will see a couple hits of the valves on two cylinders and that is it. They shut down pretty quick when at an idle. Not much momentum to carry it through a lot of turns of the crank.
Might need a couple of valves and you will be good to go.
Need anything? I found these after my son visited last month. He ruined the head by placing it on a concrete floor with the face towards the pistons down. But most of this was still good.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3zyahonpv6m89bm/2017-04-16%2018.35.41.jpg?dl=0
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#47
by
libbydiesel
on 29 Apr, 2017 19:25
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I wonder if that shortened the life significantly.
Indeed it does. If the timing belt gets any significant amount of diesel on it, it should be replaced as a matter of course. The easy time to do that is when you have to pull the belt anyway to replace that seal.
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#48
by
Tmarkle
on 29 Apr, 2017 20:24
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Pull the head and I bet you will see a couple hits of the valves on two cylinders and that is it. They shut down pretty quick when at an idle. Not much momentum to carry it through a lot of turns of the crank.
Might need a couple of valves and you will be good to go.
Need anything? I found these after my son visited last month. He ruined the head by placing it on a concrete floor with the face towards the pistons down. But most of this was still good.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3zyahonpv6m89bm/2017-04-16%2018.35.41.jpg?dl=0
I'll think about that stuff. Thinking about saving some money/selling some stuff to do fresh rings and bearing and maybe ARP hardware, so that I know she's ready to handle the added stress of the turbo. Can a guy rebuild a head himself or should I have a shop do it. I'm pretty mechanically inclined. The shop that I talked to has done these heads before too.
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#49
by
libbydiesel
on 30 Apr, 2017 10:16
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I've replaced valves and valve guides and then hand-lapped the new valves to seal properly. As I mentioned before I have also hand-lapped the head gasket surface and actually think that's better than having it milled.
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#50
by
Tmarkle
on 30 Apr, 2017 20:37
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I've replaced valves and valve guides and then hand-lapped the new valves to seal properly. As I mentioned before I have also hand-lapped the head gasket surface and actually think that's better than having it milled.
I think there was a thread on how to hand-lap the head I read somewhere but I can't remember where!
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#51
by
libbydiesel
on 30 Apr, 2017 20:42
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I use a large true flat piece of polished granite and then use some spray adhesive to stick 120 grit paper to it. The paper I use is from an 8" wide floor sander roll. I then lubricate the paper with WD40 or similar. When sanding I vary the direction and position of the head repeatedly. This will not work for a significantly warped head.
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#52
by
Tmarkle
on 30 Apr, 2017 20:45
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I use a large true flat piece of polished granite and then use some spray adhesive to stick 120 grit paper to it. The paper I use is from an 8" wide floor sander roll. I then lubricate the paper with WD40 or similar. When sanding I vary the direction and position of the head repeatedly. This will not work for a significantly warped head.
Thanks for the great tips. I really hope the head isn't warped terribly, but I won't know anything until it comes off.
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#53
by
Tmarkle
on 02 May, 2017 19:36
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How good of an idea would it be to replace the original head with a TD head? Would it be worth it?
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#54
by
Tmarkle
on 03 May, 2017 14:12
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Found an '83 Quantum turbo diesel about 5 hours from me. The seller only wants $300 for it. He claims it ran when it was parker. Really considering it.
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#55
by
fatmobile
on 03 May, 2017 16:34
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If you have a feel for what the compression should be; bring a socket and breaker to turn the engine over by hand before buying.
Sounds like a good deal.
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#56
by
Tmarkle
on 04 May, 2017 22:13
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If you have a feel for what the compression should be; bring a socket and breaker to turn the engine over by hand before buying.
Sounds like a good deal.
Gunna bring a battery too and see if maybe she'll start. '83 would be 12mm block right? It hasn't ran for about 6 months he said. I've got a feel for compression so I'll do that before I use the starter to turn it.
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#57
by
RabbitJockey
on 05 May, 2017 07:26
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if its a real turbo diesel its a 12mm block.
if the crank bolt is 19mm its a 12mm block
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#58
by
Tmarkle
on 05 May, 2017 20:57
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Called him today and he tossed a battery in and it runs! He said the pump needs retimed cause it's clacking due to being to advanced. $300 seems like a fair deal to me. Just trying to fit it in a high schoolers budget after I just turboed one lol!
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#59
by
Tmarkle
on 15 May, 2017 22:02
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Quantum sold before I could get to it... So I have 3 heads, two are mechanical one is hydro. No matter what the head that checks out for flatness will have so valve work done. Have anyone done guides themselves? How much side to side play can the valves have?
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