i'd thought about putting a thick head gasket in it.... it might be something i do... not sure how long it will take me to get all of this together, so by the time everythings ready to bolt the sc on, i might be wanting to do some other woprk too - we'll see.
since actually having the blower arrive, i've been able to research it a bit more... - its actually off a subaru pleo (not available in oz)...
guys with 1100 mini's seem to like adapting them for that setup and run them 12psi no worries moslty i think...
it is quite a small charger, and is extremely well engineered and put together - even for an old roots type, i reckon this should be quite easy to turn...
i'm hoping it'll make a fair difference since i notice little improvements at the slightest drop in ambient temp with my car now, and when im driving fast, with my ram air intake theres a good improvement from before aswell...
anyway, if its no good, i'll sell the charger, no biggie...
you shoul definitely consider intercooling with your setup as well!
I doubt you would need piston oil squirters. Like I said in my post before, its the pistons exhaust stroke that spins the turbine. Back pressure means that the exhaust gases are under more pressure, and so the pistons are under more strain to expell them.
With this setup, there is virtually no added back pressure (unless you decide to turn up the fuel high enough :twisted: ). It would be as if you were running a/c all the time, and getting boost.
I have been doing more research on piston crown coatings (ceramic, etc), and it seems as though with some of those coatings, piston oil squirters are virtually unneccesary!
Just to safeguard yourself, get an EGT gauge with a decent pyrometer, and slowly adjust fueling and monitor temps. That way you dont go wrecking your otherwise healthy motor
Could you post some pics of the SC?
i'd thought about putting a thick head gasket in it
Don't change the headgasket thickness!!! It has nothing to do with compression ratio. If you go thicker, you'll fork up your squish area, and reduce turbulence in your swirl chambers. Your cold starts will be rough with clouds of unburnt fuel too.
Try to find an 11mm 1.6 head. That will lower your compression ratio, and if you run the same headgasket, you'll have good swirl and piston quench.
I turbo'd a 1.5.
1.5TD Plan on using a similar pump. More air is nice, but more fuel is necessary. Worked great, pulled about as good as a 1.6 on boost, but the off idle stuff was still pathetic. The block I used was cracked, so it got worse and worse till I had to park it. I'll be resurecting it with a 12MM block. I'll have some Raceware 11mm head studs available in the near future. Jeez, i have a brand new 11mm 1.6 head on it now that will be in excess too.
5hit can your stock 11mm head bolts. The insertion length uses less than half of the available threads in the block, and the holes in the corners of the block tend to crack out.
Get head studs, or longer grade 12.5 allen bolts.[/img]
there was a question about updates...
this project is on the backburner, but i have a new partner in crime on this project who is also interested.
my main concern is getting my 1.6td up and running atm, but i have the 1.5 out of vehicle...
once the 1.6 is in, the 1.5 can go onto the engine stand and i can think about SC brackets.
turns out it would be a great combination for hillclimbing, autocross here in australia... since you get a disp*0.8 advantage for diesel, and a disp*1.3 penalty for forced induction, it'd come out at about 1570cc, which fits into the under 1600cc class! WOOT!
that math also works for turbo, is lag a problem on those applications?
Once it was rolling my 1.5TD didn't really have a lag problem. Pulled all 5 gears. It would cruise comfortably in 5th above 65 MPH, below that forget it, had to be in 4th. It had gobs of power on boost.
Off boost, it was the same lowly 1.5. Nothing off of idle. Probably have to increase the idle significantly so the poor thing can spin the Kompressor.
