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#15
by
96_yota
on 07 Sep, 2015 14:38
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The only reason I don't think all four pistons were replaced is because three (1,2, and 4) all have the same numbers on the 76.98mm and a few other numbers stamped into the tops where piston number 3 is completely flat with no numbers in it.
Are you suggesting that the previous owner over-bored and replaced the pistons on only three of the four cylinders. I've never heard of such a thing. Yes, the three that are marked are oversize and so obviously not original. The one that does not have any markings is ALSO not original and I would be astounded to find that it was not the same diameter as the other three.
Thats what I was assuming was done but like I said im not 100% until I have measured everything.
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#16
by
libbydiesel
on 07 Sep, 2015 14:43
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I've never heard of a machine shop over-boring just some of the cylinders. I believe it would cause significant imbalance in the engine. You said the single piston is just flat, are you saying it doesn't have the cloverleaf cutout?
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#17
by
96_yota
on 07 Sep, 2015 14:57
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I've never heard of a machine shop over-boring just some of the cylinders. I believe it would cause significant imbalance in the engine. You said the single piston is just flat, are you saying it doesn't have the cloverleaf cutout?
No it has the cut out just missing the numbers, I just took a set of calipers and and did my best at measuring the bore size but im not holding to these numbers as 1. my battery was dead so im going off the ruler on the side of the caliper and 2. it was only measuring the top 3/8ths of the cylinder. All the bores measure 77mm so it was over bored on all cylinders just 1 different piston.
Also pulled a main cap off and they are standard size, and the numbers on the rod bearings are 07-87, 033 701.
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#18
by
theman53
on 07 Sep, 2015 15:59
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You will need to plug that 2nd oil hole as Dakotakid pointed out. That should have been done before. No CY should have been hydraulic, so you may have a mess there.
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#19
by
96_yota
on 07 Sep, 2015 16:07
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You will need to plug that 2nd oil hole as Dakotakid pointed out. That should have been done before. No CY should have been hydraulic, so you may have a mess there.
Its not a hydraulic head
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#20
by
libbydiesel
on 07 Sep, 2015 17:05
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Your picture of the head clearly shows the oil hole between Cyl 1 and Cyl 2 which is only present on hydraulic heads. The solid lifter heads have a coolant channel there and a depression on the outside of the head rather than the extra bump...
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#21
by
96_yota
on 07 Sep, 2015 17:12
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Your picture of the head clearly shows the oil hole between Cyl 1 and Cyl 2 which is only present on hydraulic heads. The solid lifter heads have a coolant channel there and a depression on the outside of the head rather than the extra bump...
Ah I see now...So this head is clearly not original correct?
My bad for not knowing like I said im new to these. Best thing for me to probably do is order a new head right?
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#22
by
theman53
on 07 Sep, 2015 19:26
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Make sure you actually have a CY block. If you have a hydro block all is well, but CY was never a hydro. You could block that passage and run a mechanical head gasket as that is what I am doing right now on my CY engine, but if you have to go through the entire head and you could find a solid lifter head cheaper, do whatever. Someone may need a core hydro head and you could recoup some cost. Or do as I did, whatever works
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#23
by
libbydiesel
on 07 Sep, 2015 20:28
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If you post up a pic of the block head gasket surface I can tell you which it is.
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#24
by
96_yota
on 07 Sep, 2015 20:31
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Make sure you actually have a CY block. If you have a hydro block all is well, but CY was never a hydro. You could block that passage and run a mechanical head gasket as that is what I am doing right now on my CY engine, but if you have to go through the entire head and you could find a solid lifter head cheaper, do whatever. Someone may need a core hydro head and you could recoup some cost. Or do as I did, whatever works
It is a CY block I know that for a fact as that's the first thing I looked for on the block.
I still haven't pulled the rotating assembly out yet but I did look down into the bottom end and saw a few part numbers on the pistons, looks like all the pistons are the same so that kind of makes me feel better about it. I don't know why the one doesn't have any marking on the face like the other three. Still hoping to be able to hone it and put fresh rings/bearings in the bottom end but with my luck it'll need to be bored again and I'll have to buy new pistons.
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#25
by
Dakotakid
on 07 Sep, 2015 20:54
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This is a supplement to all the above. I never knew they made hydro "CY" blocks. I DO know that CY blocks appear to have a bit more nickel in the cast iron and that substantially helps with engine life (without making machining more difficult). The CY's actually physically feel heavier when you grunt the empty block around.
Here is an additive to help you in the rebuild: do NOT fit crankshaft bearings with an integrated center main. THAT is all the parts places want to sell these days and it is NOT the hot ticket. Integrated center bearings are like "loaning" your girlfriend to the local biker gang.....NOT good!
If you NEED crank bearings, buy a set to fit a 1997 AHU tdi diesel. Those are the IDENTICAL bearings the way they used to be sold for our little pea-shooter engines. If your engine is currently fitted with an integrated center, you will have to acquire the four thrust bearings (shims/inserts) to be fitted along-side the center bearing.
Also, do not overlook wrist pin bushings as well.......a lot of these guys do.....don't you make that mistake.
EDIT: Also, those rods will need a reconditioning or good check/measurement. You are going to be attempting to use this engine to pull a heavier vehicle than it's original purpose (unless it originally was in a vanagoon. Anyway, I personally would NOT take any shortcuts on the rebuild.
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#26
by
96_yota
on 08 Sep, 2015 07:14
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#27
by
96_yota
on 08 Sep, 2015 07:28
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This is a supplement to all the above. I never knew they made hydro "CY" blocks. I DO know that CY blocks appear to have a bit more nickel in the cast iron and that substantially helps with engine life (without making machining more difficult). The CY's actually physically feel heavier when you grunt the empty block around.
Here is an additive to help you in the rebuild: do NOT fit crankshaft bearings with an integrated center main. THAT is all the parts places want to sell these days and it is NOT the hot ticket. Integrated center bearings are like "loaning" your girlfriend to the local biker gang.....NOT good!
If you NEED crank bearings, buy a set to fit a 1997 AHU tdi diesel. Those are the IDENTICAL bearings the way they used to be sold for our little pea-shooter engines. If your engine is currently fitted with an integrated center, you will have to acquire the four thrust bearings (shims/inserts) to be fitted along-side the center bearing.
Also, do not overlook wrist pin bushings as well.......a lot of these guys do.....don't you make that mistake.
EDIT: Also, those rods will need a reconditioning or good check/measurement. You are going to be attempting to use this engine to pull a heavier vehicle than it's original purpose (unless it originally was in a vanagoon. Anyway, I personally would NOT take any shortcuts on the rebuild.
Thanks for the info
As for the rods, if they check out (not bent or cracked) ill have them shot peened/polished along with new wrist pin bushing pressed in.
The rebuild wont be started for a little while, im going to pull the rotating assembly and bolt the head back on so I can mock it up in the truck and build some mounts.
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#28
by
libbydiesel
on 08 Sep, 2015 10:13
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Well, that's a hydraulic block. Totally weird that it is the CY code. Please post a closeup of the top of the lifters also.
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#29
by
96_yota
on 08 Sep, 2015 11:15
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I'll get a few pics when I get home tonight.
Being I'm going to look for a new head and need a intake anyways would it make sense to find a 1.9 head?
