So i set out yesterday to change the headgasket due to oil leakage so i put an aaz hg and arp studs along with all new coolant flanges and such, pieced it all back together and started up really rough like it was starting on 2 cylinders and idled like it was on 3 cylinders. Looks like the engine had a full rehaul before i got to it, precups had no cracks and cylinder walls looked mint, all internals looked fresh, all timing is on point, i did have to unbolt ip during hg in unrelated note. I did leave it one night without purging fuel into the injectors so is it possible one or two of the injectors is stuck or should i rotate the pump more advanced? When i accelerate under load it kind of seems like all cylinders fire but still a slight lack of power and pukes white smoke.
Sorry for the long description i just want to get this figured out kind of pissed off since this is the 4th hg ive done on all the vws ive had and all the other hgs ive done fired up no problem and ran no problem
Thanks for advice in advance
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What did you set your timing to?
What did you set your timing to?
I just used the markings on the flywheel, cam and ip gear since the car ran perfectly fine before i thought the injection pump timing would be fine
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Nope, that ain't gonna cut it... Remember the injection pump timing is being set to 1/100 of a mm... You can't just line up some marks.
Yes, by your description your timing is probably retarded and you should move the pump towards the engine. You can hillbilly time it through trial and error or you can get a proper gauge. Just remember to loosen and reseat the injector lines after changing the pump timing or they get stressed and crack!
Nope, that ain't gonna cut it... Remember the injection pump timing is being set to 1/100 of a mm... You can't just line up some marks.
Yes, by your description your timing is probably retarded and you should move the pump towards the engine. You can hillbilly time it through trial and error or you can get a proper gauge. Just remember to loosen and reseat the injector lines after changing the pump timing or they get stressed and crack!
Yup that did it, wow mustve got lucky with all the other times i took that ip off, ive had it off 3 times since ive owned the car, lucks finally running out i guess haha thanks btw
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Nope, that ain't gonna cut it... Remember the injection pump timing is being set to 1/100 of a mm... You can't just line up some marks.
actually the tolerance is quite a bit more than 1/100 mm, i dont have a manual in front of me but for my 1.6na its from 0.84 to 0.9Xsomething mm, i have it @ 0.94 in one of mine,,although if you have a good dial in metric,,the timing does get set to 0.001mm+/-.
Yup. But if the performance spec is 1.05 do you settle for 0.84?
if you so happen to still have other motors,,re-time ip,,when you check/adjust ip(inj pump), you also want to check crank&cam timing. turns a motor from a clatter to a purrr
Yup. But if the performance spec is 1.05 do you settle for 0.84?
i got a couple of old mk2s, both are na, so with no turbo i found the man recommended 0.94mm this i find is the best setting ive found yet, 1 motor is set to 0.92mm and the .94 sounds/feels better, i also am getting good fuel mileage,,so no complaints, if i had a turbo my timing should be close to 1.00mm or perhaps 1.05mm like you say; although an old block is going to be too tired to do this,,not to say old, but still good parts, the original german, or oem set-up/parts are going to be better than pretty much anything you can find today,.
Yup. But if the performance spec is 1.05 do you settle for 0.84?
AIUI, it depends on the pop setting on the injectors.