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#15
by
Smoker
on 27 Mar, 2015 11:41
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No white smoke. I pulled the belt and tried to flush the pump as per air cooled's advice. It won't even pull the atf out of the bottle. I'm about to head out on a road trip to pick up an alh Beetle, I'll let the pump sit with atf in it for a day and see if anything loosens up.
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#16
by
RabbitJockey
on 27 Mar, 2015 12:27
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#17
by
ORCoaster
on 27 Mar, 2015 16:02
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RabbitJockey, ONLY 50 bucks??? Anytime someone calls themselves a cheap B. You know he isn't in the mood or wallet frame of mind on that advice.
But I liked it. The suggestion to wire to solenoid was nice touch for simplicity sake.
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#18
by
vanbcguy
on 27 Mar, 2015 20:48
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Worth mentioning that the solenoid wire isn't fused on a lot of the earlier cars. I know it is on the Mk3 (it uses the 'Engine Management' position in the fusebox) but not sure about the Mk2 and Mk1... So if you're running power for a lift pump from there, BE CAREFUL and add a fuse.
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#19
by
Smoker
on 28 Mar, 2015 10:21
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Update: attempt #2 at flushing the pump with atf... It isn't putting anything through the delivery valves, but it is sucking atf from the bottle and sending it out the return. What does this mean??
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#20
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 28 Mar, 2015 10:32
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add lubromoloy,mix and keep on running stuff thru, let sit, and do again, pump is stuck, but its starting to work, the question is can you get it where it can run again or you have to it breakdown.
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#21
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 28 Mar, 2015 10:36
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do you have return going back to bottle? you can also possibly hook something up, get line that fits the pump squirters clamp, run all 4 lines back to bottle and return too, now you can keep on running pump this way and possibly wont lose the flush. continuous flush
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#22
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Mar, 2015 18:30
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Smoker, It sounds to me that you have the primary part of the pump working since it will pull fluid in and pump it out. But what isn't working is the secondary part of the pump that compresses the little bit of fluid as the shaft rotates and rides up and down on the cam plate. It might be a stuck spill collar or plugged holes in the shaft itself. Just keep soaking it as suggested and hook up some hose to the back end to collect the spray that comes out there too. No need to make this a messy job.
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#23
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 28 Mar, 2015 18:45
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prob shouldnt recycle fuel out of squirters at first; after they 'fire' a good amount, try to recycle, fi line may work with clamps. can run return from pump return. i like to use a filter , like a bug filter use to be a buck, now its over $1.50. prob shouldnt use a filter with atf though would be too thick.
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#24
by
burn_your_money
on 28 Mar, 2015 19:19
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You can take the delivery valves apart and see if they are stuck closed. Just be careful not to drop the little washers out of them. Parts inside the delivery valve holders (14mm) starting at the timing belt end and moving to the drivers side
1) copper washer
2) delivery valve (2 pieces)
3) spring
4) washer
You can remove the delivery valves completely and try turning it over to see if it squirts fuel. Don't mix up the parts but they can go back in any hole.
When the collar gets stuck it's in the starting fuel position which is maximum fuel (even more than full throttle) so I'm thinking you likely have an issue with the delivery valves. If they are stuck closed you aren't going to be able to get your diesel purge mix up to them to loosen them. You can reuse the washers, although technically you aren't suppose to.
If you moved the throttle (which you likely did) the control collar could get stuck in a position other than starting fuel which could make getting fuel flowing through it slower/impossible.
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#25
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Mar, 2015 20:35
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BYM, Moving the collar off start position was what I was thinking. There could have been that film coat on the shaft and moving the lever pushed it back from start location and now it is jammed back a bit exposing the spill hole. And It won't come back on its own. I wonder if popping the top to get down in there is an option rather than dismantle the pump end?
Cleaning the delivery valves is a good thing to do as well, Just eliminates it from the potential cast of characters that can make fuel deliver a problem.
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#26
by
burn_your_money
on 28 Mar, 2015 21:17
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You should be able to take the top off to try and move the collar. Obviously much care would be needed.
Spinning the pump at high RPM might push it back as well but that's not too likely I'd say.
If it's that stuck, it's going to need seals so I'd just tear the whole thing down and remove some variables.
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#27
by
Smoker
on 29 Mar, 2015 21:00
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I'm 99% sure I never moved the accelerator.
I did have a thought earlier today... maybe I should power the shutoff solenoid before I try to get anything out of the delivery valves? Lol. Now it spits some atf while spinning it with the air ratchet, but not much...
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#28
by
Smoker
on 29 Mar, 2015 21:02
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My Dasher's old pump is sitting on my shelf. It ran great, but wouldn't hold its prime. One of these days, I need to dig into one of these pumps so I can understand how they work. Maybe today is the day...
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#29
by
Smoker
on 30 Mar, 2015 06:15
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I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around what should be happening when I'm flushing the pump. Or more specifically, how much atf I should see. I'm used to seeing diesel fuel hitting the hood when injector lines are cracked to bleed air, but it isn't putting much atf out at all. Thoughts?