I named him turbs.. more like "turds" - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• I named him turbs.. more like "turds" by Snowyroads on 24 May, 2014 13:26
• So i said i'd make a new thread now that my car is driving (kinda). So here we go
  
  My questions and concerns will be listed in order of importance to try and tackle the biggest problems quickly.  My greatest thanks to all of you who've helped me getting the stupid 1.5 running.
  
  So i got the fuel screw collar off and i turned the screw in enough to where i can dump smoke out if i want.. The pump is timed to .9 and i'd like to keep it there.  The 1.5 is supposed to be timed around that range and the car seems to take well to it.
  
  1. 4 speed transmission, fresh rebuild (as told by PO) and i was able to hit 55mph in 3rd but the car doesn't like climbing hills.  and i never have power in 4th.   Should i assume that 4th should only be used at speeds of 55+  and just let the engine scream all day long at lower speeds.   I may be a little biased on account of i have no sound dampening on the underside of the hood, nor do i have a dash or any of that so the cabin is quite loud.    anyone else run a 4 speed?
  
  2.  The oil pressure light and buzzer are always on.  its like dumb and dumber, the most annoying sound in the world.. all the time.    Searching and info in the bentley show my wiring harness in the 83 has a second circuit for a switch on the oil filter flange.. Well the 1.5 doesn't have this oil switch so thats likely where my control unit is having issues.  is there a way to bypass this or complete the circuit so that i am just running the switch on the head?  the bentley says it was a normally open switch on the td.  Am i to assume all i have to do is ground that biz and it'tl STFU?    seriously it needs to stfu  
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  3.  I should be able to tackle this one by myself when i rip up the carpet:   my fuel gauge is not working on the cluster.  Im getting a really low voltage on the hot wire.  I think it was around .4v. I see in the schematics that there is a fuse in line. Ill look into that.  lay your knowledge down on me if you know anything.
  
  4. the interior is gone/trash/pooped on.  I am going to make a custom carbon fiber dash.  just a simple 90 degree bend and drill out all the holes for my switches, gauges. I'm going to figure out a way to have a fresh air fan blowing for defrost and thats it.  This is just my nice day fun car currently.   Ill have to see about doing all new door cards, headliner and carpet at a later time.. I just want my car driving well for now.  Hope the coppers dont look into my car  
  
  5. i guess ill note the bunch of white smoke on start/warm up but its not an issue right now.  I need to put the miles on the car to seat up dem rings.  just rolled over 2 years of ownership and im up to almost 60 miles on the car!  
  
  
  6. also, damn it! someone tell me more about this turbo and what i should be doing with it! ty
  
  edit: went driving today. odo doesn't work but i probably drove 30 more miles.  3rd gets me up to about 55 and 4th got me to 72 down a hill!  but neither really pull me up hills.  up a moderate hill, having to drop to 3rd, i dropped down to about 40.  feels like im driving the tractor trailer again :/
  
  
  
  on the pedal (cold)
  
  
  idle
  
  
  
  
  
  Found a biggg pool of water in the spare wheel well. not sure why. i had an ACN tranny sitting in that well.. I think ittl be okay.  Oh yeah, this car is also my garage  
  
  
  also, not sure why ill add this one
  
  
• #1 by Rising on 24 May, 2014 19:47
• Hey cool rabbit man! I'm driving an 84 diesel 4 speed so I thought I'd chime in.
  
  Mines the 1.6n/a 4 speed and I don't have a ton of trouble getting around. Its just very slow. I can say for sure that I have to downshift on almost any hill though. Or just accept my loss of speed but that is mostly just gas saving technique. I could mash it and get high egts and climb but why do that. Speaking of which do you have an EGT guage yet?
  
  Second of all that sensor can most certainly be grounded of you are talking about the one on the oil flange. That's how mine is running right now (oil filter flange has a mechanical gauge hooked up)
  
  White smoke on start up is a sign of retarded timing I believe. Someone else can confirm this though.
  
  Not sure about the other problems but lastly I'll answer what to do with that turbo: bolt it on
  
  
  
  
  Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
  
  
• #2 by ORCoaster on 24 May, 2014 20:12
• I have to agree with Rising after looking at the startup pictures.  Your retarded, I mean the car engine not you the person.  Even with it at .9 there may be other issues here.  Like how about a sticking advance mechanism in the IP.  If that is gummed up, and I sense that it is you may have .9 at idle but when you need to have more at higher RPMs it just isn't there.  Then there is the issue of proper IP internal pressure at startup.  This can be checked just by measuring the flow out of the IP at about 1000 RPM.  Not that hard to measure.  It is all about a defined amount for a certian amount of time.  I will have to go look up the numbers unless someone else has them at the top of their head.  
  
  Most old IP need to have the regulator tapped in a bit on the front end.  Once you get that done and the volume of fuel is about right then a check on the piston that moves the advance mechanism is in order.  If all those check out OK and you still have crap for get up and go remember it is a 1.5 liter and you really, really need that turbo to get some HP on that lil sucker.  
  
  OK, off to find some numbers.  From the famous Hager and the Bondo Bunny page:  flow at idle 625 mL in 90 seconds --if you get that things look cool. ----that flow is a reference only ---you may get more or less---let us know and we will tell you what to do.
  
• #3 by Snowyroads on 25 May, 2014 10:26
• I know the timing looks retarded. I've had it timed to other spots before and very recently too and by this point, i can do it in under 30 minutes so maybe ill bump it back to 1mm. 
  
  This pump definitely has some kind of issues still. i have not filled it with atf or anything. I got the pump with the car.  Turns out it was the only one of the 2 that worked.  only took me about 26 months to figure out that the old pump was bad    I've replaced glowplugs, rebuilt injectors, timed that old pump maybe 10 times including putting it 180 out.  Could never figure out how to pull that IP pulley off.   
  
  The last time i ran the pump directly from a water bottle, the fuel got really weird and almost brown if i can recall.   Ill definitely have to try it again with a nice methy graduated cylinder.. that's right B|tch! 
  
  So to fill it with ATF, i just pull out a bunch of fuel with my mightyvac and dump it in through the IN banjo hole? 
  
  Im sure that some things are stuck up in there so the pump is still my big culprit..  Im still considering trying out the Turbo IP.  Its got 186k on it too and has been sitting for years and years so its likely not any better.
• #4 by Toby on 25 May, 2014 15:52
• You need to bump the pump timing up to 1.05 or more. That and a bit more flow screw and it should run like a gas Rabbit. Where in Seattle are you?
• #5 by Toby on 25 May, 2014 16:01
• The oil light/buzzer is because you do not have the second oil pressure sensor. It grounds at 18 psi (IIRC) instead of pulling ground when you get over 4 psi like the one on the side of the head. This gives the little red box a signal to check at above 2000 rpm. This means that no oil pressure will turn on the light as well as LOW oil pressure above 2000 rpms.The easiest fix is to jerk the magic oil pressure relay and jumper the 2 pins to make the oil pressure light work. I do not remember which ones. Be absolutely sure that you do have oil pressure FIRST.
  
  FWIW the relays fail regularly and are kind of a goofy idea anyway.
• #6 by ORCoaster on 25 May, 2014 22:07
• To fill the IP with ATF just pull the inlet hose off the fuel filter and stick it in a jar of ATF.  Have the out line going to a second and start the engine.  When it starts to go red from the out line shut the engine off.  Let it sit for a day then fire it back up and let the ATF cycle a bit from the jar through the pump and back into the jar.  Idle and rev a bit for 5 mins might be enough.  Then shut engine off and replace lines on fuel filter and out back to the tank.  Start the engine again and flush the ATF into the cars fuel tank.  Not going to hurt a thing.  Mixes with diesel just fine. 
  
  
• #7 by Snowyroads on 20 Jun, 2015 15:23
• SO! moved home to Iowa and i got me a 1 car garage so here's a quick update.  I do need tire advice though.
  
  Car is running fine so lets forget about all that white smoke cause i fixed dat shiz with my spare diesel pump the PO gave me. 
  
  Just finished doing a Raceland Coilover install. New strut mounts, rear strut mounts, control arms with new bushings, ball joints, and new camber hardware.  I have one bad tire on the 13in Rims and i have a complete 98 mk3 wolfsburg jetta that i'll be parting out soon so tell me everything that will fit in this car plz.
  
  However, the wolfy rims with 195/60/14's look great on the rabbit, but i could tell i was in trouble when i took the car off the jack stands.  I either need to roll the fenders( just started learning/reading) or cut them? Or i spend the money on new tires for the 13in rabbit rims.  I like the jetta wheels on the rabbit but i know the 13's would fit. 
  
  Not looking to go crazy low but it's just a summer fun car to me and wont be seeing any snow so i'd like to make it look good while staying 4 in off the oil pan at least
  
  
  So here's the question.  Jetta tires are in great shape, but i'd be spending the money for a tool i'd only use once = $85 ebay. (Fender Roller) + Heat gun = maybe $135-150
  
  Or Buy all new tires @ $ 70+tax for 13in rim tires plus whatever they find and needs to be buffed out/fixed up on a 1978 rabbit rim.
  
  The ultimate goal here was to just get an alignment so i dont burn through tires so i'd be happy either way.  Are these jetta wheels crazy huge for a rabbit? They're about 2in taller and quite a bit wider than the old wheels. I like em more though :/
  
  Thanks guys
  
  
  
  Rear/jackstands
  
  
  Front
  
• #8 by TylerDurden on 20 Jun, 2015 15:49
• Are you using spacers? IIRC, the "Flyer" wheels are like ET 45 and the stock are like ET 38. I've seen sad cases of new tires shredded on the inner sidewall from hitting the coils.
• #9 by Snowyroads on 21 Jun, 2015 12:21
• No spacers. I'd be willing to bet that's exactly what's happening. I didn't see any contact at the fender flare in a straight line but there's a ton of rolling resistance, almost like the e brake is applied. I'll take a look again tomorrow but I think I'm just going to get new tires for the 13s
• #10 by theman53 on 21 Jun, 2015 20:18
• I love those wheels. Would you get rid of them if they don't work?
• #11 by Snowyroads on 22 Jun, 2015 11:20
• I d sell them to ya but the shipping alone would be $200, no? They are cool though. I was going to put them on my girlfriends mini but the hub is 1 mm too big so I'm not sure they'd fit
• #12 by Snowyroads on 22 Jun, 2015 11:22
• 
  
   BTW: new nickname