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#15
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 17 Aug, 2013 08:12
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If the alternator bracket has been removed within a year, it is possible to pull it without pulling the IP.
It helps to loosen the IP a bit, so mark its position beforehand.
The two bolts under the IP are accessed using a flexi-socket on the bolt nearest the pulley and an S-wrench on the bolt nearest the dipstick.
Thanks for that tip! I will try it out when I have the IP back in.
It's back together and running and all went well! I did not try your tip because it looks almost impossible to me. Incredibly tight access, not being able to see - a recipe for stripped bolts in the making. Next time I will go in by removing the intermediate shaft idler. Should be a much easier job.
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#16
by
TylerDurden
on 17 Aug, 2013 09:36
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Knowing the small bolts will come out is the key to taking out just the pump without the housing.
I can't remember if I put anti-seize on the small bolts of the new pump when I replaced the whole assembly. That would've been a good idea.
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#17
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 19 Aug, 2013 13:47
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I marked the timing belt and sprokets qhen I replaced the water pump and put it back the same way with the marks all lined up. Started right up but very quiet no diesel clatter and smokes more than before.I can't advance the IP anymore to achieve 1.00 mm timing because it is hitting the end of the adjustment slot. It was near the end of the adjustment before but timing was 1.00 mm. Now I can't get to 1.00 mm advance. I tried moving the belt one tooth relative to the IplP sprocket but then can't set the timing right. Obviously I am doing something wrong. I need a step by step how to get the IP in the middle of the adjustment range.
Thanks!
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#18
by
CRSMP5
on 19 Aug, 2013 14:13
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paint n pray does not work....
pull belt and install right way...
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#19
by
burn_your_money
on 19 Aug, 2013 14:22
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Your pump is a tooth off, hopefully that is all. Do it the proper way and it should be smooth sailing.
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#20
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 19 Aug, 2013 16:32
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paint n pray does not work....
pull belt and install right way...
I marked but did not pray and it worked! What did the trick was to have the flywheel mark not onTDC but a few fly wheel teeth BTDC so I'm not fighting the spring in the pump when I moved the belt one tooth on the IP sprocket.
The sweet diesel clatter is back. Just took a test drive and it's running great. No more water pump racket!
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#21
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 19 Aug, 2013 18:17
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Your pump is a tooth off, hopefully that is all. Do it the proper way and it should be smooth sailing.
It was a tooth off, even before I did the water pump which was done by the book per Bentley (fly wheel TDC, cam lock plate in, pin inserted in IP sprocket hole), but resulted in IP at the end of adjustment with timing set.
Now that I have the IP in the middle of the adjustment range and timing set to 1.00 mm, the pin can no longer be inserted in the IP sprocket since the holes no longer line up.
Can you explain why?
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#22
by
8v-of-fury
on 19 Aug, 2013 19:32
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Now that I have the IP in the middle of the adjustment range and timing set to 1.00 mm, the pin can no longer be inserted in the IP sprocket since the holes no longer line up.
Can you explain why?
Something got muffed. The gauge may still read 1.00mm but if it is not in time with crank and cam.. it is not
really injecting it at that point.
The pulley should line up, you clearly have the know how. Pull it all off and start again. Half-ass is the quick way to a blown up engine.
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#23
by
burn_your_money
on 19 Aug, 2013 19:37
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I find with my pump lock pin that it isn't quite tight enough and will allow the pulley to move enough to get the belt a tooth off.
It's strange that yours won't go in when you have the crank right at TDC though. As long as you get the desired timing though it really doesn't matter if the pump is a tooth off one way or the other, as long as the lines aren't stressed. It sounds like you have it right though.
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#24
by
8v-of-fury
on 19 Aug, 2013 19:40
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Yeah I guess, the timing is still read at crank TDC.. which if everything remained the same.. is also cam TDC.
The NEXT time you have it apart though, figure that issh out lol.
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#25
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 19 Aug, 2013 19:51
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Why does the IP have a woodruff key? Can it be eliminated? It makes putting the belt/sprocket onto the shaft very difficult.
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#26
by
8v-of-fury
on 19 Aug, 2013 19:53
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Hmm, I have seen pumps without them..
If you do the belt properly.. it is not hard at all.
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#27
by
DanV990
on 19 Aug, 2013 19:57
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I find with my pump lock pin that it isn't quite tight enough and will allow the pulley to move enough to get the belt a tooth off.
I use a Craftsman 11mm deep well socket for the IP pulley lock pin. It is a perfect fit with absolutely zero play.
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#28
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 19 Aug, 2013 19:59
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Hmm, I have seen pumps without them..
If you do the belt properly.. it is not hard at all.
Do you install pumps w/o the key? The belt tooths are about 3/16" apart, which is plenty to make the sprocket holes not line up.
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#29
by
8v-of-fury
on 19 Aug, 2013 20:13
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No, BUT The Land Rover pump I currently have on my m-tdi iirc did not have a keyway when it was in Land Rover form.
If the holes don't line up you didn't do it right though.