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#45
by
CdnVWJunkie
on 13 Jun, 2013 09:31
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Sorry I wasn't clear Tony. I read you post and knew you had the K14 and I didn't realize you didn't know it'd bolt straight up to an early TDI. Great upgrade as Andrew pointed out.
If you're pulling your engine apart anyhow and your bottom checks out, you'd be looking at TDI pistons, TDI cylinder head (complete) and one of Andrews mTDI pumps and you're back in business. Use your turbo and intercooler set up. Use all the 50 degree T3 specific stuff again. Use your intake. You have to pull it all apart anyhow. Sell your IDI pistons and IDI Giles pump and you're well on your way to your TDI goal. Now mind you, gearing.... hmmm. Not sure what your goals are there. 4.86 w/ stock gears. I guess it all depends on what your intended goals and usage are with the rig.
Rob
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#46
by
TonyTDTruck
on 13 Jun, 2013 10:04
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Now mind you, gearing.... hmmm. Not sure what your goals are there. 4.86 w/ stock gears. I guess it all depends on what your intended goals and usage are with the rig.
Rob
Hey Rob no problem. In the last ten minutes I've learned I can use a lot of the things I have. This is really good news on top of the bad news I have at the moment.
The intercooler setup and exhaust is very expensive. The Turbo has also been rebuilt.
The DoKa I have came with very low gearing. This was a true working truck that was capable of moving a crew of 5 and fully loaded with a 1.6TD.
The Diff was a 6.17 and the gears are low to start with. All I did was bump up the Diff and kept the gears the same. It turned out to be a good conbo.
Most of the driving we do is on the freeway for about 3 plus hours and then explore fire roads in the middle of Oregon looking for lakes and campgrounds.
6.17 Diff
3.78 1st gear
2.06 2nd gear
1.23 3rd gear
.85 4th gear
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#47
by
libbydiesel
on 13 Jun, 2013 10:19
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4.86 R+P w/ 0.85 4th sure is still quite short for highway w/ a TDI.
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#48
by
TonyTDTruck
on 13 Jun, 2013 11:04
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It is a little low still but in this neighborhood we have lots of speed bumps. To get to Eastern Oregon you need to go over several passes. Very few flat roads around here.
My Hood, Jefferson, Batch-lore, about 41 mountain ranges. It does get flatter the farther east you go. Then you hit the Steens. Fully loaded you really feel the drag.
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#49
by
CdnVWJunkie
on 13 Jun, 2013 11:34
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Gearing is a subjective topic. There is no perfect selection of custom gearing. It's all based on how the end user will utilize their rig. One thing about the TDIs is they're not quite as rev-happy as IDIs. But if you're content with the way it's set up now then there may be no reason to change it.
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#50
by
TonyTDTruck
on 13 Jun, 2013 11:50
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4.86 R+P w/ 0.85 4th sure is still quite short for highway w/ a TDI.
Here is another thing I didn't know. What do you guys recommend for this setup. I don't believe it will be as heavy as a Westfalia but it's heavy in some cases hauling a canoe, two people and a dog along with everything else for camping in the hills.
Gearing is expensive. I can do this in the future if I need to.
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#51
by
CdnVWJunkie
on 13 Jun, 2013 14:11
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Gearing is expensive. I can do this in the future if I need to.
I agree. Try it out. It's your truck and you use it your way.
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#52
by
libbydiesel
on 15 Jun, 2013 06:04
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I would reiterate a few points.
The AAZ and the 1Z/AHU are basically the same block. The TDI rods are stronger, but the crank/mains and block are the same strength.
All else equal, the AAZ will produce the same power as the 1Z/AHU. The lower rpm torque is less, but the AAZ will rev higher to make up for it. The fuel consumption is worse on the AAZ, but the cost of gearing changes is not insignificant and likely desired or necessary with the 1Z/AHU.
The AAZ has the pre-chamber issue.
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#53
by
TonyTDTruck
on 15 Jun, 2013 07:03
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I would reiterate a few points.
The AAZ and the 1Z/AHU are basically the same block. The TDI rods are stronger, but the crank/mains and block are the same strength.
All else equal, the AAZ will produce the same power as the 1Z/AHU. The lower rpm torque is less, but the AAZ will rev higher to make up for it. The fuel consumption is worse on the AAZ, but the cost of gearing changes is not insignificant and likely desired or necessary with the 1Z/AHU.
The AAZ has the pre-chamber issue.
More good information. One of the problems I'm having with the AAZ is at takeoff. Once the turbo kicks in it has lots of power. The lower rpm torque will help to compensate for that I hope. Regarding the rpm range. Where does the AAZ and AHU redline? I haven't installed a tacho yet. When I did the diff change, I had the opportunity to bump up the gears but decided to wait and try the stock gears. It turned out fine with the AAZ. I used to have a calculator to figure out the MPH with the tires and gearing.
What I do remember is the speed at 3,000 rpm. I calculated from 51.7 MPH 6.17 gearing at 3,000 rpm to, 66 mph gearing 4.86. Without a tacho, I wasn't able to confirm this.
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#54
by
hillfolk'r
on 16 Jun, 2013 21:31
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For those on a budget, you could change tire heights. If room allows or it doesn't look too dorky, that is.
I did have 195-75-14 truck tires on my old truck. But that will require a little clearancing
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#55
by
Gizmoman
on 17 Jun, 2013 05:49
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#56
by
TonyTDTruck
on 17 Jun, 2013 20:11
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hillfolk'r , I just bought a new set of BF Goodrich 225-75R16. They sit 29" from the garage floor to the top of the tire.
This truck can take 30.5" tires but I thought it was a bit much.
Gizmoman , I couldn't figure out that calculator if my life depended on it. I had training on a slide ruler back in 1973. That should tell you something.
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#57
by
745 turbogreasel
on 17 Jun, 2013 23:37
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#58
by
theman53
on 18 Jun, 2013 06:22
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#59
by
TonyTDTruck
on 19 Jun, 2013 08:12
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http://www.scirocco.org/gears/
Thanks 745 turbogreasel , great calculator.
theman53, this one works great. At 65mph according to the calculator, I'm revving 3081rpm. Would this be a safe rpm for the TDI?
I'm not sure where the redline is for either of these engines.
Tony