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#45
by
8v-of-fury
on 06 Mar, 2013 19:37
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Are both your caddy's Non-turbo? If so, then yeah pretty damn reliable.
For ultimate reliability I would have a mechanical 1.9 1Z/AHU with no turbo, a header and a long tube gasser intake.
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#46
by
wolf_walker
on 06 Mar, 2013 20:32
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They have both been both a few times , couple jettas too. Stock TD's don't live as long but haven't been less reliable really. I've probly got 500k across a couple over the years, rest were NA. Course they were younger and original. Hell neither father or I have ever replaced a headgasket other than for worn heads or weeping external oil. Just lucky maybe. If they weren't reliable as crap I wouldn't put up with the noisy rattly things.
The 82 has a NA AAZ in it now, pretty decent combo. MPG has never been what it should, but it's been steady for 140k or so now.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
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#47
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 08 Mar, 2013 01:41
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Are both your caddy's Non-turbo? If so, then yeah pretty damn reliable.
For ultimate reliability I would have a mechanical 1.9 1Z/AHU with no turbo, a header and a long tube gasser intake.
1Y already has the right ports to match the AAZ/TDI head ;-)
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#48
by
8v-of-fury
on 08 Mar, 2013 09:19
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Are both your caddy's Non-turbo? If so, then yeah pretty damn reliable.
For ultimate reliability I would have a mechanical 1.9 1Z/AHU with no turbo, a header and a long tube gasser intake.
1Y already has the right ports to match the AAZ/TDI head ;-)
Yup, that'd be the best of all engines right there.
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#49
by
wolf_walker
on 08 Mar, 2013 09:36
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I'd like to spend some more time with a TDI eventually. Preferably in a chassis I'm familiar with.
Every time I start thinking seriously about it though I end up saying to myself..
"but what about a 4BT in a 77 Buick wagon?"
In circles I go.
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#50
by
vw-tim
on 09 Mar, 2013 18:59
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I love your guys conversations ha but id like to do alittle update here! So got the new injectors from Oregon and got them in running the truck now i set the IP to 1.00mm and she starts and runs without cold start in 30 degree weather but there seems to be a lot of white smoke. So i messed around with the max fuel screw not knowing what im doing but i figure whats the harm adjusting it alittle along with the screw that controls the idle i can make them line up and i have gotten it to smoke less it seems like.. I cant tell if its because its cold outside or if its because of the engine still white smoke im gonna start it up tomorrow and see if it was cuz of the cold or what. Anyway! sorry to ramble here.
My questions now are:
How do i fix the white smoke issue? What is it suppose to be normally?
Also How should i adjust the max fuel screw and idle screw? Is there a sweet spot?
Lastly is my 1.00mm IP timing correct? or should i adjust that?
Just trying to learn more thank you guys! Hope your all having a good one!
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#51
by
damac
on 09 Mar, 2013 19:25
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I love your guys conversations ha but id like to do alittle update here! So got the new injectors from Oregon and got them in running the truck now i set the IP to 1.00mm and she starts and runs without cold start in 30 degree weather but there seems to be a lot of white smoke. So i messed around with the max fuel screw not knowing what im doing but i figure whats the harm adjusting it alittle along with the screw that controls the idle i can make them line up and i have gotten it to smoke less it seems like.. I cant tell if its because its cold outside or if its because of the engine still white smoke im gonna start it up tomorrow and see if it was cuz of the cold or what. Anyway! sorry to ramble here.
My questions now are:
How do i fix the white smoke issue? What is it suppose to be normally?
Also How should i adjust the max fuel screw and idle screw? Is there a sweet spot?
Lastly is my 1.00mm IP timing correct? or should i adjust that?
Just trying to learn more thank you guys! Hope your all having a good one!
you are jumping around too much. you shouldn't be touching your fuel screw yet.
in those temps you should be using your cold start lever and let it warm up a bit with it pulled out, thats what the manual says its there for.
so with the lever out how is it starting in those temps and how is the smoke pattern a minute after startup?
it only gets down into the teens winter here but for example i go outside in the morning and pull the lever, let the glowplugs cycle once and then hit the key. bam almost instant startup with an initial cough of smoke. maybe a few stumbles but the car will run smooth, although nosier, and idle without a constant puffing of smoke.
post a video of your cold startup procedure with a look at pipe and engine bay for noise. i would totally do by ear timing but you kind of need to know the noise of a healthy engine. you don't want it to sound like somebody is taking a hammer to the engine if you advance the pump until there is no constant white smoke.
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#52
by
vw-tim
on 09 Mar, 2013 19:39
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well when i first started it with the cold start pulled it would start up and then i let it warm up and i turned off the cold start through it all it just seems to be a constantly white smoking.
I will try and take some videos tomorrow to show it.
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#53
by
wolf_walker
on 09 Mar, 2013 21:05
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You aren't going to know how it acts, or smokes, till you drive it and really warm it up. Unless you let it run with the hood closed for 30-45 minutes
it still isn't really warmed up as driving with a load on it across an RPM range will provide. An oil temp gauge will illustrate this fact.
Ambient temp will effect a tired injection pump too.
That 81 Caddy in my sig started with that tired, 300K+ motor and 300k+ injection pump starting up rough,
smoking white, and getting 38mpg, and over the course of 5K miles and some timing tweaking it
got to the steady MPG seen below and no smoke unless it was really cold out.
Take one thing at a time, and put a few miles on it.
If it starts up mostly as damac said, it's probly essentially OK.
Drive it, if coolant temps and oil pressure are good and no bad sounds, drive it hard.
They like that.
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#54
by
vw-tim
on 09 Mar, 2013 21:27
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You aren't going to know how it acts, or smokes, till you drive it and really warm it up. Unless you let it run with the hood closed for 30-45 minutes
it still isn't really warmed up as driving with a load on it across an RPM range will provide. An oil temp gauge will illustrate this fact.
Ambient temp will effect a tired injection pump too.
That 81 Caddy in my sig started with that tired, 300K+ motor and 300k+ injection pump starting up rough,
smoking white, and getting 38mpg, and over the course of 5K miles and some timing tweaking it
got to the steady MPG seen below and no smoke unless it was really cold out.
Take one thing at a time, and put a few miles on it.
If it starts up mostly as damac said, it's probly essentially OK.
Drive it, if coolant temps and oil pressure are good and no bad sounds, drive it hard.
They like that.
right on! ill take it around the block tomorrow and then report back
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#55
by
wolf_walker
on 09 Mar, 2013 21:38
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If it's safe, go put ten miles on it.
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#56
by
vw-tim
on 09 Mar, 2013 22:32
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If it's safe, go put ten miles on it.
Okay ill try. Any suggestions on how i should have the timing on the pump? or the fuel screw? I did mess around with it a little.
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#57
by
wolf_walker
on 09 Mar, 2013 23:57
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It's good practice when you adjust anything to make sure you put it back where it started at, if you can do that. If you have to back off the idle screw, put it back where it was and then back the fuel screw
to where it has a normal idle RPM, if it's all totally gone you'll just have to watch the smoke. It ought not to smoke black much under full throttle at the stock setting, a little but not much.
Play it by eye. Tons of black smoke under accel is bad.
On the timing I still start with a stock-ish spec and tweak it by ear and feel from there. Honestly with mostly stock parts on mostly stock motors, the stock
spec works fine, even if it's not ideal. Read the hell out of the bentley manual. On an unknown motor/pump I usually static time to .90 and advance it if it feels weak until it clatters too much when warmed up good. I don't like to hear one clattering like a SOB myself, but that's more a personal belief than a technical one. Unless you have some weird popping injectors or a weird pump 1mm is usually more than enough.
If things are not stock that's all out the window and other folks can advise you better. Remember that that the pump advances timing with increasing RPM, and they do so less-well as they age and wear.
It's a battle of making-do. I've also found my rear isn't a good dyno, and MPG across a couple tanks tells a better tale of what's going on. It makes it a very long process tuning sometimes. When I win the lotto I'll
have a chassis dyno in the shop and save myself some time.
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#58
by
vw-tim
on 10 Mar, 2013 12:26
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Okay so just drove it down the street and back and it actually seems to run pretty decent not a ton of smoke but i seem to be having an issue with the temperature the temp gauge is really hot and my radiator fan isn't turning on. Could this be like an IP issue? or could it be somthing else like just with the radiator thermo switch and that sorta stuff?
Just to add alittle detial the little thermo switch thats hooked up on the side of my radiator is brand new and i put in a brand new thermostat too.
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#59
by
TylerDurden
on 10 Mar, 2013 12:43
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A cheap IR thermometer will tell you what the deal is. Measure the radiator sections, hoses, etc.