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WAIC - Still working on rebuild
by
Gizmoman
on 20 Feb, 2013 08:22
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#1
by
RabbitJockey
on 20 Feb, 2013 08:42
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what turbo? and i am confused by the intake, is it an awic or does it add water to the air?
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#2
by
JamesT
on 20 Feb, 2013 09:17
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It's an intercooler. That thing on the compressor inlet of the turbo is for the water/meth injection.
In your build, it looks like there is a lot of air that will bypass the cores. Is that filled in and not shown?
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#3
by
Gizmoman
on 20 Feb, 2013 18:20
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The turbo is a K14 and connects directly to the intake via a silicone boot (not installed)
There are two aluminum tubes that the cores slide into with about .007" clearance. Each tube has a thru-slot for the in/out air which forces the air through the fins of the Laminova core.
Water flows through the core - both the small ports on the edges as well as through the bores. I tested the assembly to 60 psi water pressure and no leaks. My pump will only produce about 4 psi.
Just type Laminova into Google and you'll get the concept.
Let me know if the link to the photos (posted previously) doesn't work or if you have to sign up to Picasa to use it. I don't want any one to have to do that so let me know.
Just wanted to touch base as there are a lot of guys who have been helping me on this site and I din't want them to think I had given up.
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#4
by
Gizmoman
on 20 Feb, 2013 18:23
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It's an intercooler. That thing on the compressor inlet of the turbo is for the water/meth injection.
In your build, it looks like there is a lot of air that will bypass the cores. Is that filled in and not shown?
Yes - it is filled in and just not shown.
The air must flow through the slots.
Here's a shot from the back side - there are two mods - one is the intercooler, the other the water injection.
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#5
by
Syncroincity
on 20 Feb, 2013 19:23
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That's a very interesting charge cooler.
Side note: measure your valve stems. AAZ's had two different sizes over the years, 7mm and 8mm. Make sure you get the right valve stem seals for your head. Now ask me why I have to pull my head back off...
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#6
by
Gizmoman
on 20 Feb, 2013 19:47
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That's a very interesting charge cooler.
Side note: measure your valve stems. AAZ's had two different sizes over the years, 7mm and 8mm. Make sure you get the right valve stem seals for your head. Now ask me why I have to pull my head back off...
Thanks, it's was more work than it looks like and my tig skills were quite rusty. The intake casting welded fine though - just didn't expect so much warpage. I think it's going to perform well though - cool air and zero lag.
Bummer about your seals. The head you see is the original just for fitting the manifold up. I have a brand new KS waiting in a box (I did port it though) I believe you even gave me some pointers on how to do it. I did have to replace the seals cause I removed the valves - they were 8mm if I recall.
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#7
by
shorttimer
on 20 Feb, 2013 21:41
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VERY interesting concept. Love to see the results. I'll be watching this build.
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#8
by
CrazyAndy
on 21 Feb, 2013 19:37
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Good to hear you are still going. Pistons fit okay?
LOVE the integrated IC mani, looks like something I've seen/mentioned before, when a Neuspeed ABA supercharger had a AWIC core welded in between the 'charger body and the lower intake manifold. I only wish I had the funds and nerve to ask you to build a second one for MY AAZ Rabbit build! 2nd test mule?
Either way, watching this!
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#9
by
Gizmoman
on 23 Feb, 2013 06:03
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Crazy Andy, haven't touched the engine yet! These two projects (IC & WI) have soaked up all my time
I hope to wrap them up this weekend and get back to the engine next week.
Here's some more photos. . .
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4AeVXz2qdc0/URwxSEJKm7I/AAAAAAAABYc/9c7fgOqXrt4/s912/DSC00239.JPG?gl=US
The variable water/meth injector needs a bit more work as I found out from the guy I bought my solenoid valves from - brass and methanol don't mix. I'll be re-machining all the brass bits I already made from PTFE Teflon. This will be better anyway cause the stuff is real slippery. Both the port liner and the spool will be Teflon.
The spool with the three o-rings slides based on boost pressure (already tested from 0 to 15 psi). I will machine a very slight taper in the spool which allows a variable amount of 50/50 water/meth to enter the spray nozzle - the spring returns the spool to a somewhat closed position as the boost pressure is reduced. The pump is 200 psi so mixture particle size should be teeny weeny (scientific term) as it enters the turbo.
I have two pressure switches - one will start the pump at 3-5 psi and the second will open a stainless steel 12v solenoid valve at 7 psi - let the cooling begin!
None of this would be feasible if I didn't have this forum to lean on. I have received a lot of help so far and will be needing a bunch more along the way. Gotta thank my wife as well - her patience is big stuff.
Better get to it. . .
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#10
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 23 Feb, 2013 12:58
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holy crap, how much does that intake manifold weigh?
looks HUGE, and it looks like you used 3/8-7/16 solid AL13 plate!
your going to run some strengthening brackets from the block/valve cover, to that intake, right?
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#11
by
Gizmoman
on 23 Feb, 2013 13:59
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ROR,
Only the end plates are 3/8 and each one has two large holes in them
- the rest is .09 sheet. The tubes that keep the air close to the cores is about .08 wall and each of them have big slots machined into them.
Actually it doesn't weigh much more than the hunk of casting I milled off.
Also, if you look closely, you'll see that the turbo discharge is only about .09" from the intake and once I clamp a silicone boot in between the two, it's pretty much one hunk - intake/exhaust - 16 bolts hold both manifolds - that should probably do it.
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#12
by
CrazyAndy
on 24 Feb, 2013 14:05
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Well don't forget the mass of the water that you'll be passing through those cooler cores. Not too much, but something to consider wen you're sitting there at idle with the engine vibrating slightly. I'd at least try to tie into one of the old exhaust DP support bolts on the exhaust manifold.
I've seen a MK4 2.slow have a vacuum leak where the upper and lower intakes joined due to loose bolts because the owner was missing the bolts that support the manifold on the back of the head. Also had a bad dog bone, but my point is vibration resonance can cause looseness eventually. . .
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#13
by
theman53
on 24 Feb, 2013 15:26
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Very cool. I say so you don't have issues you should send that one to me for testing. I will report accurately if there is anything you should watch out for. Just keeping your interests in mind.
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#14
by
Gizmoman
on 24 Feb, 2013 16:48
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Thanks for the advice. If a brace is needed, I'll surely add one.
I recall having a tough time just keeping the turbo from vibrating loose from the manifold.
I have put a lot of work into the water/meth injection but then it dawned on me that even if it's set to use the mix sparingly, I'll still need to refill a five to seven gallon res every fill up. That's fine around town but road trips would be from one Home Depot to the next buying alcohol. That's too much of a PITA - I'm going to just run it without and keep an eye on my EGT temp. With the new pre-cooler, it should be fine.