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another round of death. Seems I'm losing prime overnight
by
wdkingery
on 13 Feb, 2013 10:16
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You think I could rig up (another, or maybe the one from the ditch) a lift pump? Or is the prime that's being lost inside the hard lines?
I'm looking for a cheap easy fix for extended crank times that appear to be pump losing prime. When it does fire, it lights right off, And there is gray smoke.
On an unrelated note, got any ideas for ring decoking? I'm thinking water injection, but im not sure how to go about it.
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#1
by
Blownoiler
on 13 Feb, 2013 11:32
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#2
by
wdkingery
on 13 Feb, 2013 13:14
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I'm running on mostly pure motor oil; only 8-12% diesel.
i need a more stringent decoking. i really need to pull the rings and clean the grooves, but i'm looking for an alternative
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#3
by
Blownoiler
on 13 Feb, 2013 14:30
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I have had success using kerosine as an engine oil flush, I add 20% by volume to the engines oil just before I change the oil and filter. This should be only be tried on a warmed up engine (to avoid the oil filter going into bypass mode), and the engine shouldn't be revved (again to avoid oil filter bypass). On really worn engines the kero finds its way into the combustion chamber, so can ignite causing a runaway engine, it's best to sit in the drivers seat while the flush is happening so that any engine runaway can be stopped by engaging 4th gear and dropping the clutch with the brakes on hard (to stall the engine). I let the engine idle for 30 minutes before draining the old oil to give the kero a chance to do its thing! Try this at your own risk-it works for my isuzu engine, but thats doesn't mean that it will work on yours!
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#4
by
fatmobile
on 14 Feb, 2013 11:39
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A helper pump might even help you find your leak, when fuel pours from it.
Get clear lines everywhere.
Into and out-of the pump and on the small lines between the injectors.
Reach behind the pump sprocket and feel for fuel.
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#5
by
wdkingery
on 14 Feb, 2013 13:57
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ok so you say it's a low side leak?
i was concerned the problem was on the high side.
i can find a low side leak if that' what i'm after.
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#6
by
scrounger
on 14 Feb, 2013 14:47
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Are your rings feeling the tar, be careful running those heavy fuels.
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#7
by
8v-of-fury
on 14 Feb, 2013 17:05
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A helper pump might even help you find your leak, when fuel pours from it.
Get clear lines everywhere.
He runs black fuel, so air bubbles will not be able to be seen easily if there are any. lol. But the pump may or may not be able to show some leaks.
Are your rings feeling the tar, be careful running those heavy fuels.
He's got it covered. Extreme budget operation lol.
I have been thinking of doing a water injection, Any pump that could supply a few psi to an injector pre turbo, would work sufficiently to keep EVERYTHING clean including the air intake tract. I think it would be a high RPM or WOT throttle thing depending on how much you are going to squirt..
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#8
by
scrounger
on 14 Feb, 2013 17:28
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V8
I had a car that was designed to have premium fuel It was the 70's and the early emission controls caused a lot of problems with pinging. I set out to solve it with a water injection system.
I put on an extra pump that would shoot windshield washer fluid into the carb throat. To meter i,t I used a motorcycle carburetor jet. The control circuit consisted of a vacuum solenoid to trigger a micro switch to turn on the fluid pump. When the vacuum got close to the zero the circuit would turn on. I used a latching relay to keep the circuit from working when the car was being started. I had a momentary contact switch in the dash. The system would be "armed" once the car was running.
You could use some thing similar. Perhaps even an oil pressure gauge sensor that would come on at say 8 psi.
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#9
by
8v-of-fury
on 14 Feb, 2013 17:32
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I like it. I plan to run water injection as I do also plan on delving in to "black diesel". I have thousands and thousands of liters of old gasoline and used motor oil available to me, on top of the 40L of diesel I get for the week from work.
Would you then use the oil pressure sensor plumbed in to the boost piping to inject water at and above 8psi of boost/ manifold pressure?? Sounds good. Yeah it would maybe need to be a different number based on your setup, but whatever boost number is near your top end would probably work really well.
You'd only be injecting a mist in to the intake, and only a few droplets per stroke would make it in to each cylinder.
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#10
by
wdkingery
on 14 Feb, 2013 20:04
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After bunches of research, I decided to go with the hillfolkr design. Tried it today, but didn't have the right parts. Apparently this motor doesn't hydrolock! 8v you might wanna watch out about feeding the turbo water.. Evidently that's a no no.
I'm gonna find a carb jet this weekend and get it right.
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#11
by
8v-of-fury
on 14 Feb, 2013 20:07
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I have read many many things for and against pre-turbo water jetting.....
Some say it wears down the fins, others say it works to cut the water in to finer mist..... I dunno, seems to be a half and half crowd out there.
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#12
by
wdkingery
on 14 Feb, 2013 20:23
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Someone somewhere linked a photo of a damaged turbo from water injection, but I didn't click the link.
That nut.. Oh what's his name. Jeffrey Brooks! He's got a website "beyond biodiesel" (count the amount of times he says "translucent" its amazing!) where someone has been dumping water on the turbo forever and it's been fine. Or maybe that was hillfolkr. Anyway I'm sure it's fine. I just gotta get a carb jet.
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#13
by
8v-of-fury
on 14 Feb, 2013 20:26
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The finer the mist the better.. Maybe they just had a garden hose dumping a *** ton in to the intake? lol
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#14
by
scrounger
on 14 Feb, 2013 20:57
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I think a blast of water or water alcohol mix on impeller blades spinning 10's of thousands of rpm would not be good. Water is very hard when hit by something at high speed. Think of doing a belly flop off the high dive.
Perhaps a bigger pump going with more pressure and sending it into the pressurized side of the intake. Too much water will cool the fire enough to not make good power.