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#15
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 07 Feb, 2013 01:10
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How does water get through that hose when it is kinked like that?
it doesnt
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#16
by
DieselBalz
on 07 Feb, 2013 07:07
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I havent had any issues with the cooling system, but you guys are right, I need to do something about that. Its been that way since I purchased the vehicle. I have a replacement heater core for it. But here in Florida there is little motivation to install it.
Thanks ROR for your...enthusiastic disapproval of my proposed spot for the catch can. That is why I posted the pics, to get some feed back. However, I do not want to drill into the block or drill anywhere else other than to mount the can. Any other suggestions for placement? I am thinking that the hose coming from the puck to the can needs to be short and angled down to the catch can. The return hose can be whatever.
Anyone else got pics of their already installed, not drilled into the engine, pics of catch can placement?
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#17
by
DieselBalz
on 07 Feb, 2013 07:10
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Not sure if I posted this here yet? Or another thread. IO got this one, very nice thick aluminum.
I ordered the exact same one. There were cheaper ones on the ebay, but they were not as polished and didnt look like I could open them to inspect the inside, change packing, or have the fluid level indicator. Nice recommendation.
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#18
by
theman53
on 07 Feb, 2013 07:15
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This shows where it goes. Not something hard to do. 2 bolts and a drill and tap. I have the one I made I would sell you *if I can find it* so all you have to do is unbolt and add a hose and hose clamp...and bear the horrible Florida cold to put it on.
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#19
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 07 Feb, 2013 07:39
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This shows where it goes. Not something hard to do. 2 bolts and a drill and tap. I have the one I made I would sell you *if I can find it* so all you have to do is unbolt and add a hose and hose clamp...and bear the horrible Florida cold to put it on.
see where the block breather hose is bolted on? you can make up a plate to go there.. drill the plate and tap it for a fitting..
NEVER did i say anything about drilling the block..
where were you going to be draining back to the block with the catch can on the back of the engine? there is no magical port back there..
diaphragm pumps used that port as a vent.. if you snag a vent fitting off an older engine, you wont have to drill or build squat..
do you REALLY think its a good idea to mount something that large to your EXHAUST MANIFOLD? i wouldnt add any extra parts to vibrate around, and i would avoid having oil that close to a burning hot exhaust manifold and turbo.. just doesnt seem like the best idea to me, but im open to hear why it is or is not a great spot to put the catch can..
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#20
by
DieselBalz
on 07 Feb, 2013 07:49
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I did consider the heat factor. It was another reason I decided to post the pics. I have zero plans to put it back there now. I had only considered it because it was the shortest distance, and there was a space I could possibly mount the can.
I also do not want the oil that is caught going back into the crank case. I want to be able to measure how much oil she is blowing. Another reason is if the packing starts breaking down, I don't want it going straight into the engine. I do appreciate the pic though. If I was gong to do that sort of set up, it does look easy.
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#21
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 07 Feb, 2013 07:56
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I did consider the heat factor. It was another reason I decided to post the pics. I have zero plans to put it back there now. I had only considered it because it was the shortest distance, and there was a space I could possibly mount the can.
I also do not want the oil that is caught going back into the crank case. I want to be able to measure how much oil she is blowing. Another reason is if the packing starts breaking down, I don't want it going straight into the engine. I do appreciate the pic though. If I was gong to do that sort of set up, it does look easy.
whats the point of an oil separator, if you arent going to let it do its job, and drain back to the engine? these things are made to remove the oil from the ccv gasses, and circulate the oil back into the oil pan, where it belongs..
why do you want to measure the oil coming out? do you have a vac leak or bad brake booster? both will cause quite severe blow-by..
just trying to help here, not question your logic.. you obviously have your reasons.
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#22
by
DieselBalz
on 07 Feb, 2013 08:04
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Look at it as having dual purpose. Get the oil off of my beautiful valve cover, intake, turbo and as a bit of a diagnostic tool. If my blow-by is minimal, then great. If the can starts filling faster, then I may have a problem developing with one of the above you mentioned, or the rings.
You are correct, i do have my reasons. Appreciate your as always passionate assistance with these old dubs.
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#23
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 07 Feb, 2013 08:17
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another thing, if these engines cant get the blow-by out of the engine fast enough, they will literally SWEAT oil from excessive crank case pressure.
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#24
by
8v-of-fury
on 09 Feb, 2013 20:48
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Not every catch can drains back to the block. If you have a can that NEEDS a drain because it fills up that much.. I think you have other issues.. lol
Kevin, calm the hell down with your outrageous replies.
If you do not require a drain you could mount the can anywhere you wanted. Run a tube from the top of the cam cover to the can, and then from the can back to the intake tract. Problem solved. Lots of space over by the filter.
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#25
by
DieselBalz
on 10 Feb, 2013 06:08
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I ordered the one that you linked above. Should get it next week. Im also going to take the opportunity to re-plumb my boost gauge line, and reroute the heater core bypass so its not kinked like it is now. I do hate the spaghetti mess of hoses and wires under the bonnet. Im not gonna shave the bay, but am going to try and add some order to the engine compartment.
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#26
by
8v-of-fury
on 10 Feb, 2013 09:49
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The key to stopping clutter is to try and have everything follow the same path. Clearly a shaved bay is not practical at all... They get rid of everything that is needed for daily use lol.
Re route the things that cross over other stuff and maybe hit it with a pressure washer and some soap.. You'll be surprised how good it can look!
Even just some nicely routed fuel lines makes it looks stellar lol.
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#27
by
DieselBalz
on 23 Feb, 2013 08:51
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Done.
I also redid the heater core bypass, ran new boost gauge line, and the wiring of gauges/radio mentioned in the other thread.
Thanks for the assist!
Edit: I didnt know what that little plug does, and after cleaning out that piece, found it was lined with copper. So I kept it. What is that for?
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#28
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 23 Feb, 2013 10:09
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that breather line from the engine is pretty small.. might cause pressure issues..
you need big breather line (to let the gasses slow down, and have the oil drop out of suspension) from the valve cover to the can, and back to the turbo intake..
you DO NOT want to run any smaller breather line than what it came with factory..
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#29
by
8v-of-fury
on 24 Feb, 2013 17:38
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That is the line that comes with the oil can, it is 3/4 ID iirc??