High drive pressure will leave more residual exhaust gas in the chamber, much like EGR, which should result in a lower peak combustion temperature and therefore less peak cylinder pressure according to how I understand (or don't) the combustion event, however, on a diesel engine that has no valve overlap there is going to be high exhaust valve/exhaust port temps due to no cooling air passing through on the non existant valve overlap, the higher the temp and pressure the more heat transfer to the engines head/exhaust valve so things might melt on a bloke if the heat/pressure loads get out of hand. Personally, I would follow the popular engine manufacturers engineers method of getting good engine life when turboing an N.A. engine, lower the compression ratio (there is a mathematical way to work how much lower you should go...but don't ask me for the correct answer, I would just copy off the factory), and fit an egt gauge....yes I know that you won't get time to look at a gauge while trying to control an animal tractor during a run, so why not buy an egt gauge that has an adjustable high temp alarm and hook up the overheat relay on the gauge to a simple water injection setup? Here's a cheap but not nasty gauge that works well:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=139&zenid=1b6cf09cc9e005f44cef75787b6a1210 You have to put the probes cost on top of this, so around $100. from memory gets you cheap engine insurance!
EDIT: here's a link to the probe:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_22&products_id=69
http://youtu.be/2ylbJj8X6lkHere is a video from across the big pond of a tractor with a 1.3 VW diesel. In line bosch pump and a cross flow head.
How does one steer these things when the front wheels are in the air for much of the time? 2 brake pedals?
We steer with rear brakes, posi rear ends will find the out of bounds lines in a hurry most of the time unless you run a ton of weight on the front so you can steer it.
Figured the brakes too. interesting thread
Loooka that thing just clear it up and haul some ass once the boost picks up eh!?
Thats gotta be tough on the starter motor, almost 10 minutes to fire it up! I'm wondering if they have tried some pre-heating techniques. I wouldn't want to be breathing all of that smoke as it's a known carcinogen!
High drive pressure will leave more residual exhaust gas in the chamber, much like EGR, which should result in a lower peak combustion temperature and therefore less peak cylinder pressure according to how I understand (or don't) the combustion event, however, on a diesel engine that has no valve overlap there is going to be high exhaust valve/exhaust port temps due to no cooling air passing through on the non existant valve overlap, the higher the temp and pressure the more heat transfer to the engines head/exhaust valve so things might melt on a bloke if the heat/pressure loads get out of hand. Personally, I would follow the popular engine manufacturers engineers method of getting good engine life when turboing an N.A. engine, lower the compression ratio (there is a mathematical way to work how much lower you should go...but don't ask me for the correct answer, I would just copy off the factory), and fit an egt gauge....yes I know that you won't get time to look at a gauge while trying to control an animal tractor during a run, so why not buy an egt gauge that has an adjustable high temp alarm and hook up the overheat relay on the gauge to a simple water injection setup? Here's a cheap but not nasty gauge that works well: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=139&zenid=1b6cf09cc9e005f44cef75787b6a1210 You have to put the probes cost on top of this, so around $100. from memory gets you cheap engine insurance!
EDIT: here's a link to the probe: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_22&products_id=69
I had one of these on my modified 1 cylinder alcohol burning Kohler tractor but the vibration killed it in no time. Its the tractor in my ID picture.
Thats gotta be tough on the starter motor, almost 10 minutes to fire it up! I'm wondering if they have tried some pre-heating techniques. I wouldn't want to be breathing all of that smoke as it's a known carcinogen!
It was sort of running on its own most of that time, all the white smoke was from when he stopped spraying ether into it and wasn't warm enough to keep going on its own.
There is a video of a big pro stock tractor that takes about 3 cans of ether to get it on the track and backed up to the sled lol. They run really low compression in them to make them live.
http://youtu.be/4cvMhlWW9R4Pro stock problems in cold weather,,,
I have heard that some of the pro stocks are running a single turbo in the 4.8 to 5.2 inch range.
High drive pressure will leave more residual exhaust gas in the chamber, much like EGR, which should result in a lower peak combustion temperature and therefore less peak cylinder pressure according to how I understand (or don't) the combustion event, however, on a diesel engine that has no valve overlap there is going to be high exhaust valve/exhaust port temps due to no cooling air passing through on the non existant valve overlap, the higher the temp and pressure the more heat transfer to the engines head/exhaust valve so things might melt on a bloke if the heat/pressure loads get out of hand. Personally, I would follow the popular engine manufacturers engineers method of getting good engine life when turboing an N.A. engine, lower the compression ratio (there is a mathematical way to work how much lower you should go...but don't ask me for the correct answer, I would just copy off the factory), and fit an egt gauge....yes I know that you won't get time to look at a gauge while trying to control an animal tractor during a run, so why not buy an egt gauge that has an adjustable high temp alarm and hook up the overheat relay on the gauge to a simple water injection setup? Here's a cheap but not nasty gauge that works well: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=139&zenid=1b6cf09cc9e005f44cef75787b6a1210 You have to put the probes cost on top of this, so around $100. from memory gets you cheap engine insurance!
EDIT: here's a link to the probe: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_22&products_id=69
I had one of these on my modified 1 cylinder alcohol burning Kohler tractor but the vibration killed it in no time. Its the tractor in my ID picture.
I haven't had a problem with mine, but then my engine is pretty smooth, and the vehicle body is mounted on rubber pads to the chassis too. I suppose you could leave the gauge on an extension wire loom, and drop the gauge into your pocket to minimise vibration if you can't come up with another system!
Have you looked into getting a decompression plate made for your engine? The headgasket could be used as a template, it shouldnt cost too much! EDIT....How much slack is there in the timing belt? If you do fit a decompression plate make sure that the timing belt will still have enough length to fit around the cogs
so, your telling me that if the engine has 50psi drive pressure, its going to have the EXACT SAME PCP as a n/a with NO drive pressure?
i find that HARD to believe...
Off course PCP will not be the same, but you are dumping a lot more fuel into a TD to get 50psi EMP than what you are doing to an N/A with no EMP
