Tips for Installing New Head? - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Tips for Installing New Head? by wpinnix on 25 Nov, 2012 13:36
• Hello,
  
  I have a 1997 AAZ that I put in my 1981 VW pickup. REcently the coolant system was getting overpressurized so I'm going to change the head gasket. I have a new AAZ head (Kolbenscmidt) and ARP studs that I am going to install. I am running 14 psi max boost with a giles pump (adjustable pulley), and K03 turbo.
  
  I'm looking for any tips on the install.
  
  My proposed process:
  -Put engine at TDC prior to removing timing belt
  -Mark pulleys and belt and rear timing belt cover to get things back close to where they need to be
  -Pull belt off cam and injection pump pulleys; remove pulleys
  -Pull old head and gasket
  -lightly clean up block, tap head stud holes, blow out any debris with compressed air
  -Install ARP studs
  -??Apply hylomar to all 4 mating surfaces??
  -mount gasket,
  - ensure cam is at tdc in head and mount
  -torque ARP nuts according to ARP torque procedure
  -lube cam and followers with oil
  -Put everything else (intakes, covers, belts, etc.) back together
  -turn engine over by hand to ensure no interference
  -start engine
  
  I have a couple of questions:
  --If the cam lock is in place, is the cam at tdc? I want to be sure the head is static timed before I put it on the engine
  --is oil sufficient for lubing the cam and followers?
  
  Any other input or tips would be greatly appreciated!
  Thank you,
  Bill
  
  
  
  
• #1 by 8v-of-fury on 25 Nov, 2012 14:34
• -Mark pulleys and belt and rear timing belt cover to get things back close to where they need to be
  
  No need to mark pulley's or the belt, you will be starting fresh when you install the new head. At least, you SHOULD be. The "mark and pray" method is the worst possible way to do it. The crank and pump pulley are the only two that are key way'd and only go on one way. If you set the engine to TDC prior to, then you know the crank and pump will sit at TDC for the time being.
  
  -If the cam lock is in place, is the cam at tdc? I want to be sure the head is static timed before I put it on the engine
  
  Yes. The cam lock will only go in one way, and that is #1 TDC on the compression stroke.
  
  -Put everything else (intakes, covers, belts, etc.) back together
  
  I'd probably hold off on re-installing everything until I rotated the engine. Just in case you gotta tear it back down again. You only need the timing belt on and locks out of the engine to turn it over. If everything goes well from here you are solid to continue putting everything back on. In fact most leave the cam cover off as well so that they can verify everything comes back to TDC after a few revolutions by hand.
• #2 by wpinnix on 25 Nov, 2012 15:06
• Awesome, thanks for the reply!
  
  Any thoughts on using oil as initial lubricant for cam lobes and followers?
• #3 by 8v-of-fury on 25 Nov, 2012 15:06
• If its good enough to use for the engines several hundred thousand km life span, I don't see why not
• #4 by burn_your_money on 25 Nov, 2012 16:42
• Before you take it apart, practice timing the engine a few times so you get used to the procedure.
  
  Also, when you install the head, rotate the crank a few degrees forwards or backwards so that the pistons are not at TDC. this will help prevent any accidental valve/piston contact while you are finessing the head into place.
• #5 by wpinnix on 25 Nov, 2012 17:45
• Thank you for the replies.
  
  I've timed this engine a few times, and timed my old n/a 1.6 a bunch of times, so am comfortable with that process.
  
  thanks for the tip on rotating the crank....should I leave the cam at tdc when installing the head or is there a better position for it to be in?
  
• #6 by burn_your_money on 25 Nov, 2012 17:54
• As for cam position I think no matter what at least 1 valve is open so it's best to go close to TDC #1.
• #7 by 745 turbogreasel on 25 Nov, 2012 17:54
• I would go dry if it's an MLS gasket, and it likes a fine finish.
• #8 by danster on 26 Nov, 2012 11:00
• When stripping a head off a block I always pull one of the two small coolant hoses going to the waterpump housing to make sure the block drains of coolant properly. Just pulling the large bottom hose to the radiator will not drain the block as the thermostat holds coolant in the block.
  The reason for me doing this is to make sure no coolant spills into the bores when the head bolts are undone and the head removed. You do not want coolant sitting in the bores or around the piston rings for any length of time or it will water mark the bores.
  Also make sure the head bolt holes are cleared of any debris or oil prior to installing the new head. You can hydraulically crack the block by screwing in the head bolts if their threaded holes in the block are full of oil or coolant due to fluid not being compressible.
  
• #9 by wpinnix on 26 Nov, 2012 11:20
• Another great tip, thank you. I've removed the thermostat housing to drain the fluid. I'm hoping that sufficiently drains the block and head.
• #10 by 8v-of-fury on 26 Nov, 2012 11:57
• That should be sufficient as it is the lowest spot for coolant.
• #11 by Gizmoman on 26 Nov, 2012 17:55
• You could have a shop vac handy just in case