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#15
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 12 Oct, 2012 14:17
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1987 Ford F350 batteries fit with out the use of the stock hold down 
. Get a 120A TDI alternator and you are all set for grid heater, glow plugs, coolant glows, and 3 batteries if you please lol
VR uses the same alt, but much cheaper and easier to get..
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#16
by
8v-of-fury
on 12 Oct, 2012 19:25
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Still need a diesel alt setup.
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#17
by
nathantheengineer
on 15 Oct, 2012 05:17
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Slightly off topic but, When i ran my merc 190d on bio i added petrol to the mix to help us through the winter, it hit below -15°C in the Pennines in Yorkshire a few nights every winter.
Does anyone add petrol to diesel for the VW idi?
I know that the diesel should be rated for cold enough conditions but i don't want to get caught out.
thanks in advance
Nathan
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#18
by
RabbitJockey
on 15 Oct, 2012 09:17
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I have added Kerosene in the past and the owners manual says u can add either to aid cold starting
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#19
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 15 Oct, 2012 09:34
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Still need a diesel alt setup.
why do you need a diesel alternator?
the alternator is the same wether its on a TDI or a VR6...
i have a VR alt bolted to my 1.8 gasser...
with the proper bracket, it would work on a diesel no problems...
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#20
by
rodpaslow
on 15 Oct, 2012 11:42
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I would think same size as a diesel alternator, but smaller would also work, just a bit longer to charge. My drive is roughly 25 min, more than long enough to recharge the battery.
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#21
by
bugnut
on 15 Oct, 2012 17:30
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I got a grid heater on my diesel and this is how I start it. Let the glow plugs cycle and then start. After it started turn on grid heater. I can turn either just one grid on or both. depends on the temp. Each grid sucks up 100 amps. I tried starting the car with the both grid heaters on and no dice. after running the glow plugs and 200 amps from the grid heater and starter would not turn over fast enough.
Also I have a cyclic timer on the grid heat. it turns on for 30 sec and off for 25 sec. I let it run for about two cycles and then I am good to go. With my franken engine this helps out a lot.
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#22
by
8v-of-fury
on 15 Oct, 2012 18:00
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I have added Kerosene in the past and the owners manual says u can add either to aid cold starting
Gotta be careful with that ULSD though, already very low amounts of lubrication. If you were adding any Kerosene or Gasoline to your diesel.. I'd be adding a lot of lubrication.
Still need a diesel alt setup.
why do you need a diesel alternator?
Alt
setup a.k.a the bracket
.
I would think same size as a diesel alternator, but smaller would also work, just a bit longer to charge. My drive is roughly 25 min, more than long enough to recharge the battery.
Even the smallest VW alternator found on these engines (55a?) would be more than adequate to charge the battery alone, and would not add any extra charge time. A larger amperage alternator is found on VR6 and TDI stuff because of so much more electrical demand.
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#23
by
nathantheengineer
on 16 Oct, 2012 00:38
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#24
by
vanbcguy
on 16 Oct, 2012 07:15
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There's a few different things I've seen used:
- 2-stroke oil
- Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
- Straight motor oil (non-multigrade)
- Biodiesel mix
Here in BC all diesel is now 5% biodiesel. That has taken care of any lubrication issues anyone might encounter. 5% is a fine mix for nearly any weather conditions while providing significantly improved lubrication.
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#25
by
rodpaslow
on 16 Oct, 2012 11:17
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Bugnut - do you find the grid heater helps to recover (that is if it's missing - not firing all, all the time cold) faster? I just run one grid at the moment and it seem like it does. It needs to get colder here to better test it.
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#26
by
fatmobile
on 16 Oct, 2012 21:41
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I set the timing not long ago, with the proper dial gauge. It's not set at 1mm like the book says. I have a Giles pump and I set it at a wee bit closer to book (bentley manual) suggested timing. I have it set at .98 I now it's right between what Giles suggests and Bently manual. I don't think it's a timing issue because any temp above freezing it starts immediately.
Set your pump according to how it runs,.. not so it matches a number.
Try advancing your timing anyway, just to humor us.
How are you using your cold start lever?
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#27
by
bugnut
on 17 Oct, 2012 14:13
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Bugnut - do you find the grid heater helps to recover (that is if it's missing - not firing all, all the time cold) faster? I just run one grid at the moment and it seem like it does. It needs to get colder here to better test it.
It helps a lot to get the engine to fire on all 4. without it I am smoking like crazy then about 10-15 sec of grid heat and I am clear out the tail pipe and running like it should. Most of the time I am running just the one grid but for them real cold days I turn both on.
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#28
by
600K
on 17 Oct, 2012 20:51
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I like all the cold start help when it drops below minus 10. Plug in is best when available, but have started my 1.6 at 40 below just using glow plugs and a strong battery, then it hammered for about five minutes. An intake heater would really help then. Likely wore a couple years life off the starter, probably only last 30 years and 800,000 now. I understand 5% biodiesel is the best lubrication additive, didn't know it is in all diesel in BC. I have always used Stanadyne lubricity in my 6.5 as it is one of the best additives for lubricity, after bio.
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#29
by
bajacalal
on 18 Oct, 2012 18:52
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Slightly off topic but, When i ran my merc 190d on bio i added petrol to the mix to help us through the winter, it hit below -15°C in the Pennines in Yorkshire a few nights every winter.
Does anyone add petrol to diesel for the VW idi?
I know that the diesel should be rated for cold enough conditions but i don't want to get caught out.
thanks in advance
Nathan
They sell an additive product here in the states called "Arctic Express," that is supposed to keep the fuel liquid at cold temperatures. I've never used it, because well, it's mid-October and we're still seeing triple digit temperatures (in farenheit) so I've never really needed it. But I've heard it works. I would imagine that they sell something similar in the UK.