Audi 5cyl / Volvo D24 - crank damper tool, same? - page 2 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
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#15 by RabbitJockey on 04 Oct, 2012 17:41
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im not crazy, or high, or anything..
MOST honda engines REALLY DO spin backwards.. (CCW, opposite of the traditional CW rotation)
guess even our most knowledgeable users learn something new every day as well!!
it is quite odd how they did that since flipping the ring and pinion would have resulted in the same thing when they designed their transmissions. -
#16 by GTiTDi on 04 Oct, 2012 18:03
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I was given these special tools earlier this summer, an old man I know used to have a 740D 2.4TD powered....I didn't have any use for them...Now I am working on this 2.0TD project...While looking through the factory Audi service manual another friend gave me I saw these being used on the 2.0TD! Yes they are the same!
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#17 by kcfoxie on 04 Oct, 2012 18:41
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I'm not up on my Audi motors, what is the 2.0 TD? Is that the 5-cyl?
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#18 by 745 turbogreasel on 04 Oct, 2012 19:36
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Yes, or it would be a D20 in a Volvo.
Volvo has a fan bracket where Audi puts its front motor mount, so they don't end up being quite the same. The Audi tools have a notch or bolt hole at the back of the counterhold tool handle.
I also expect you'll find the Audi tool fits this
not the Volvo 4 tang. -
#19 by kcfoxie on 05 Oct, 2012 05:33
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Is that a D24? I can't tell.
So the consensus is that the Audi 5cyl tool should work and is worth the $102? I've heard others say an impact can get the bolt back on...that kind of scares me -- even if you use a cam lock tool some valves would be open and I can't see an impact tool not rotating the crank! -
#20 by 745 turbogreasel on 05 Oct, 2012 13:14
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No, tha't an Audi, big differences;
Audi lock tool engages the single big lug @ 7:30.
Some Audi tools bolt to the hole with nothing in it to the left of the damper @ 10:00., others hook to the motor mount that goes there. Even if it works, it probably won't hold at TDC.
My tool was $12, and does work....I guess it was more if you count the 36" pipe wrench.
Volvo has 2 tangs
The cam lock is not a counterhold, it will bend, and often break the slot at the back of your cam if you try to use it as one.
Best to hold the crank via pulley or flywheel so you are pulling tension in the drive direction.
A big crescent wrench on the lobes, or vice grip between them works OK for tightening pulleys to the cam, as do pulley holders.
After head gaskets, improper crank bolt install is probably the next biggest killers of D24s. Get it wrong, and you will not only crash valves, and maybe bend a rod, but the cam will be punched out of the head up through the valve cover, and your head will be destroyed.
I take my weight, and calculate how far out on the breaker bar I have to stand to reach 300+ ft/lb, and would not trust any of my impact tools to do the job.