there was lot of fiber pieces in out bolt filter.... i cleand all out. and now (with the pressure increased) i get just the right flow from furl return line ~100ml-s in 15 seconds. should i live the pressure alone or try to lower it to the point it was before i knocked the regulator?
if i want to lower the pressure i will also have to change the regulator itself, as i founf out it has a crack on the top, where moving piston is located. does anyone have it for sale?
I think they can still be purchased new.
If the regulator is not leaking, I'd run with it as is.
http://www.hansdieselparts.com/PumpPressureValve.htmsuccess
on monday i will show my car to diesel specialist and if he says noise is normal than i will wait for timing tool to arrive from usa and then adjust static timing + readjust pressure with the gauge and new pressure regulator
Errm... I'd check local or EU shops for that part, before buying from that guy. (big hint)
Regarding the twitching, keep in mind the IP is sensitive to some types of vibration (very common is a loose mounting bolt by the HP section)... the change of the front pulley/harmonic balancer might have some effect there.
maybe i 'll get some used pressure regulator from local diesel shops. i have bought ip front seal from that shop and hope it will work for 2-3 years
all the mounting bolts on ip are tightened well. i had loose bolt problem when i installed vw engine in my car 3 years ago, it was twitchin on high revs and pump was vibrating like crazy. bu after tightening that bolt it worked very well. i had this pulley from day one and serious twitching started few weeks ago. maybe it was out bolt problem which was clogged badly... i will test drive my car well on monday and write the summary
what kind of fibers? that seems strange.
i think fibers were from main diesel filter :/
few days ago car started boiling right after starting it up
blown head gasket, new topic and pictures coming up soon i will need your advices for my rebuild
there was lot of fiber pieces in out bolt filter.... i cleand all out. and now (with the pressure increased) i get just the right flow from furl return line ~100ml-s in 15 seconds. should i live the pressure alone or try to lower it to the point it was before i knocked the regulator? Huh?
Well done, that has saved you having to buy a new pump, if the fuel overheats due to it blocking, the control collar seizes and rips itself free of the govenor linkage.
When you are fixing the head gasket, wonder why VW made it impossible to remove the head without yanking the cam pulley off the crankshaft. It has always annoyed me.
Good luck with doing the head.
wonder why VW made it impossible to remove the head without yanking the cam pulley off the crankshaft.
Why is the cam pulley on the crankshaft? lmao
Cam pulley - camshaft Crank Pulley - Crankshaft. Am I misunderstanding something here? I don't remove the cam pulley when taking the head off. It makes for a great handle.
WTH?
You have an older engine.. the newer backing plate (iunless removed..) is in the way.
i also have not to remove crank pulley during the head change (but i had to remove cam pulley), i'm so happy i bought pulley puller for 6$-s
it already did a great job for me. but anyways i'm going to change crank pulley with a newer tdi style pulley.
for more info
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=34017.0what do you think about cylinder scoring?
Why is the cam pulley on the crankshaft? lmao
Apologies, 11 hour workday and 3 hour comute have reduced me to the point of lobotomy.
What have I started? People across the world yanking crank pulleys to do head gaskets?
Oh well, don't believe half of what you see on the web, and none of what you hear.
