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#15
by
billybobf
on 22 Apr, 2012 08:11
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Right now he says it's doing good after a heavy break in
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#16
by
CrazyAndy
on 22 Apr, 2012 08:36
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Sounds like the clutch needed "bedding", like when you replace your brake pads and rotors and you make some hard stops to promote contact between the brake parts. That's what your mechanic friend did; slipped the clutch until either any protectant coating on the parts was burned off or until the clutch friction material wore into the flywheel and pressure plate's contact surfaces. A clutch is basically a large brake after all, designed to match speed between tour flywheel and trans input shaft.
You should be fine now as long as the clutch engagement is smooth and progressive.
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#17
by
theman53
on 22 Apr, 2012 09:48
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I usually try to break in brakes that way...maybe the clutch could benefit? Get it hot once and call it good? Not the way I usually break in a clutch, but I never had one slipping like that either.
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#18
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 22 Apr, 2012 11:40
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that or maybe just a slick surface on the new disc?
new disks grab very well..
if your NEW disk doesnt grab very well, then something is wrong..
ive never had a disk slip because it wasnt broken in..
ive had a disk slip because it wasnt broken in PROPERLY tho..
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#19
by
CRSMP5
on 22 Apr, 2012 12:16
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he admitted the flywheel was not machined properly... its just time till it really bites him in the bumb.. gotta machine both sections.. not just 1..
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#20
by
jb86
on 22 Apr, 2012 12:26
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I gave it to a local auto machine shop to resurface
I expected it would be done correctly
I expect that they only took off a small amount of material
I mocked up an old pressure plate and flywheel to see how much space is between them
Without machining there's about a light 1/4" with the flywheel tight to the pressure plate on the surface
The disk is about 5/16"
Not much room for wear since the outer edge of the flywheel wasn't machined
I didn't know to ask
Eventually I'll have to pull the tranny and do it again
What sucks is I did my car the same way
So
Eventually I'll have to do my car too
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#21
by
CRSMP5
on 22 Apr, 2012 12:32
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yep sadly this is where some machine shops suck.. LOL.. knowledge is key.. now you know.. its also why my inital post in this thread asked as ive seen it done wrong a few times..
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#22
by
billybobf
on 22 Apr, 2012 19:12
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I personally have had a NEW clutch slip pretty bad. gotta figure if it is just 1/32" wider on the inside then the outside, its not getting 100% grab at first
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#23
by
jb86
on 24 Apr, 2012 07:48
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Just spoke to machine shop
The "old timer" really knows vws
He built my engine
I questioned everything
Because of the idiosyncrasies of the Vw diesel
He did everything right
Far as I could tell
He said he did machine both surfaces
Jon
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#24
by
jb86
on 24 Apr, 2012 07:55
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Forgot to add
He said he took off .003"
To his recollection
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#25
by
Smokey Eddy
on 29 Apr, 2012 11:36
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Could there be any loose bits in there for what ever reason jamming the pressure plate? When my clutch fell apart one of the springs was jamming the pressure plate from closing tightly.
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#26
by
Smokey Eddy
on 29 Apr, 2012 11:37
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With help, it is possible to pull the trans and block apart from each other without too much grief. Jack the car up and remove the trans towards the wheel.
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#27
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 29 Apr, 2012 11:50
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With help, it is possible to pull the trans and block apart from each other without too much grief. Jack the car up and remove the trans towards the wheel.
support the ENGINE with the jack, and then pick the trans off the engine, and lower it to the ground.. put the car up on jack stands, because you MAY need to pull the pinch bolts for the ball joints to get the axles out of the drive flanges on the trans..
i can drop an 020 trans by myself no problem. lean over the trans from above it, slide it off the engine, and then carefully set it on the ground, or a TIRE that you set under it before removing, or whatever..
leave the passenger motor mount connected, so the engine is KINDA connected to something, and remove the other 2 mounts.. then lower the trans end down, un bolt, and remove. you can get the trans out EASILY without removing the engine..
ive tried bench pressing the trans back up in the car before, and its NO FUN..
so i set the trans under the car, stand up, reach down thru the engine bay, pick up the trans, and slide it on the engine. works out great, and its much easier on your body. its much easier to LIFT the trans into place, rather than try and hold the trans still on your chest, then get a good enough grip on it to get it of your chest, then maintain enough strength to actually put it where it needs to be..
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#28
by
CrazyAndy
on 29 Apr, 2012 18:28
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With help, it is possible to pull the trans and block apart from each other without too much grief. Jack the car up and remove the trans towards the wheel.
support the ENGINE with the jack, and then pick the trans off the engine, and lower it to the ground.. put the car up on jack stands, because you MAY need to pull the pinch bolts for the ball joints to get the axles out of the drive flanges on the trans..
i can drop an 020 trans by myself no problem. lean over the trans from above it, slide it off the engine, and then carefully set it on the ground, or a TIRE that you set under it before removing, or whatever..
leave the passenger motor mount connected, so the engine is KINDA connected to something, and remove the other 2 mounts.. then lower the trans end down, un bolt, and remove. you can get the trans out EASILY without removing the engine..
ive tried bench pressing the trans back up in the car before, and its NO FUN..
so i set the trans under the car, stand up, reach down thru the engine bay, pick up the trans, and slide it on the engine. works out great, and its much easier on your body. its much easier to LIFT the trans into place, rather than try and hold the trans still on your chest, then get a good enough grip on it to get it of your chest, then maintain enough strength to actually put it where it needs to be..
Did the bench press method myself while working on my brother's 98 civic, like lifting a miniature fully-loaded fridge. He was calling one of our bigger friends to help us with that, but I just did it while he was calling him. Next thing, I tell him "run a bolt in" while straining to hold the trans on the engine, and he just stops and says ". . . uh never mind dude". LOL, but yes the banch press method is NOT FUN especially as I learned the 98 civic trans is heavier than an 020.
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#29
by
jb86
on 29 Apr, 2012 18:44
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When we replaced the clutch in the 85
Set car on jack stands maybe 1 foot or so higher than normal height
I built a wood frame with 2x6
It's a beam about 1 foot above the engine and supported on the fenders
I used 2 nylon ratchet straps to hang engine and a 3rd that I wrapped around the tranny
Removed 2 engine mounts and loosened pass side mount
Unbolted cv's at tranny, pushed them as far back as I could and down on the cross member
Lowered the drivers side a couple inches so the butt end of tranny would fit toward the wheel well
I was under it on a creeper
Helper removed the last bolt while I balanced it, hanging from the strap
Then I swung it out and helper lowered by ratchet
Only issue
I laid it on my stomache but it was too high to get out
Had to reposition a bit
Went back in the same way
Jon