The plastic bottle hone and cognitive thrift vs cheapness discussion - page 7 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
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#90 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 28 Oct, 2013 06:53
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It would appear their number links to Leyland DAF 1.8... A totally uninspiring vehicle.
BDN0SPC 6651. I'm sure they'll fit a whole bunch of clamp on injectors.
I was actually bidding on 3 sets of nozzles, from the same guy, but the few seconds between them seemed to time shift and I missed rebidding on the VW 293's.
Because they are rotation sensitive, they should be used with locking pins, which of course doesn't exist with the screw in types.
I'm trying to hold everything in line with some high tensile wire I've found. Now I'm trying to decide which way to fire the angled jet:
A 'cord' with the flow or radial, with max flow in standard direction.
This engine's timing has never conformed [well not whilst in my ownership]
Doesn't one of the Mercedes engines fire the fuel at a hot ball? Can I not fire at the tip of the glowplug?
Come to think of it on my old head I put in an odd Citroen plug which is slightly longer. I wonder if that was being hit?
Any one research into over-long, or over-short plugs and their influence on combustion,efficiency, and or turbulence? -
#91 by 92EcoDiesel Jetta on 28 Oct, 2013 07:36
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[/quote ]
Doesn't one of the Mercedes engines fire the fuel at a hot ball? Can I not fire at the tip of the glowplug?
Come to think of it on my old head I put in an odd Citroen plug which is slightly longer. I wonder if that was being hit?
Any one research into over-long, or over-short plugs and their influence on combustion,efficiency, and or turbulence?
[/quote]
Welcome back Mark!
IDI Mercedes does have a ball the injectors fire onto. But the mercedes ball is made from kryptonite and its prechamber is closed where a broken glow plug tip will not fall into the combustion chamber. Firing onto the glow plug tip will quickly erode it and make it fall off. If you do that with the VW it can be disastrous so inspect often. -
#92 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 28 Oct, 2013 07:57
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Thanks for the welcome. I am glad to be back; with my batteries fully recharged and a battery of profound questions/statements to unleash
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I'll work out how to align all jets downstream of the plug then... -
#93 by wolf_walker on 03 Nov, 2013 19:30
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Guy I know showed me a photo of a man making a set of piston rings, by hand, in Cuba twenty years ago or so when he visited.
Apparently it took a long time to make a set.
I was significantly less proud of my self for the workarounds and doing without special tools and such after seeing that.
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#94 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 04 Nov, 2013 18:07
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Guy I know showed me a photo of a man making a set of piston rings, by hand, in Cuba twenty years ago or so when he visited.
Yea workarounds, are so impressive in these poor countries... When I lived in Nigeria back in the '80's, tearing a Landrover tyre in the middle of no-where quickly produced a villager with a baked bean tin some fluids a fire, and some other stuff and low and behold back yard vulcanizing. Something not available in the local VAG
Apparently it took a long time to make a set.
I was significantly less proud of my self for the workarounds and doing without special tools and such after seeing that. -
#95 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 04 Nov, 2013 20:08
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OK this is what everyone, or many, or a few, or even just I alone have been waiting for
This is an update of the state of the Plastic Bottle Hone...
Engine barely burning oil, but there is a slow leak from either the intermediate area or crank. I will do it one day but it's not reaching people's drives yet.
Fuel economy better than official handbook figures. 50% better than when I bought engine/ other car.
My injectors are all set to 130bar. They are old French made Bosch ones. I may buy 12 cheap Chinese ones, and try and make 2 or 3 sets of closely matched nozzles.
The only time I've bought new, were some labelled French Bosch that I re-exported back to the UK from Canada, but I managed to break one by using the wrong spring carrier spaceship thingy n/a's cannot be used with TD nozzles
. One was faulty with an undersized needle so I only had 2 matched nozzles!
OK back to the hone... Last Wed took the head off; to try and cure that engine knock that has plagued me, for years... could it be 6 now? I'll have to check... Condition inside good, little or no carbon with a slight ring of limestone type deposit where the exhaust valves open. Is that Hagar's fuel ash content?
Tops of bore have the ring ridge... Not massive but possibly more than what I left as I never fully removed them in the first place.The Grant rings allowed for this. Remember this was an engine with compression ratios of 160 to 290 psi compression, and lesser men would have thrown block away or possibly spent a fortune reboring, and fitting oversized pistons...
Don't get me wrong doing the latter should have produced good results. However, I had nothing to lose to find out what was the minimal work on the engine that would repair it satisfactorily. It was my belief that over honing is detrimental. Honing to the top of the bore, unnecessarily enlarges the bore, where it needs to fit closely to the top of the piston, to reduce blowby.
I seem to remember all those years ago, I had 7 out of 12 rings worn so badly that they eventually stuck in, and upon fitting to the bore had up to 160 thou gaps, yet a few weeks before had give me little trouble, and only one piston had had any bore scuffing.
OK what did I see on Wednesday? Top of bore at top of stroke highly polished, with no crosshatching. Some further down the bore, not many though... There never were; as part of my experiment was to prove that only a few oil carrying scratches needed to lube rings, especially with oil squirters.
Not done a compression check, but the assembled engine springs back when trying to rotate with a ratchet. In my oppinion, the most important thing is to deglaze sufficiently to embed/match the new compression rings into the bore before both become a polished misfit, rather than a polished fit.
The whole experiment seems to have worked in this respect.
As I removed no flesh, there is always reboring in the future...
RE the noise; I only had time to reduce the top ridge on two cylinders, as our wonderful MET Office, was predicting a severe storm by 3pm, and I was working outside.
I am going to start a couple of threads tomorrow.
One on the results, of the quick Dremmel fix, and one on why I reassembled with new headbolts. Maybe one on gaskets too making a threesome...
Thanks for reading.
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#96 by Gizmoman on 05 Nov, 2013 05:56
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Mark, you sound confident that it's the bore ridge causing the noise. Are you pulling the pistons?
Let us know the outcome. -
#97 by rs899 on 05 Nov, 2013 10:23
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x2. It's real easy to spend money to fix something. It's real hard not to spend money to fix something.
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#98 by vako on 05 Nov, 2013 10:44
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OK this is what everyone, or many, or a few, or even just I alone have been waiting for
This is an update of the state of the Plastic Bottle Hone...
Engine barely burning oil, but there is a slow leak from either the intermediate area or crank. I will do it one day but it's not reaching people's drives yet.
Fuel economy better than official handbook figures. 50% better than when I bought engine/ other car.
My injectors are all set to 130bar. They are old French made Bosch ones. I may buy 12 cheap Chinese ones, and try and make 2 or 3 sets of closely matched nozzles.
The only time I've bought new, were some labelled French Bosch that I re-exported back to the UK from Canada, but I managed to break one by using the wrong spring carrier spaceship thingy n/a's cannot be used with TD nozzles. One was faulty with an undersized needle so I only had 2 matched nozzles!
OK back to the hone... Last Wed took the head off; to try and cure that engine knock that has plagued me, for years... could it be 6 now? I'll have to check... Condition inside good, little or no carbon with a slight ring of limestone type deposit where the exhaust valves open. Is that Hagar's fuel ash content?
Tops of bore have the ring ridge... Not massive but possibly more than what I left as I never fully removed them in the first place.The Grant rings allowed for this. Remember this was an engine with compression ratios of 160 to 290 psi compression, and lesser men would have thrown block away or possibly spent a fortune reboring, and fitting oversized pistons...
Don't get me wrong doing the latter should have produced good results. However, I had nothing to lose to find out what was the minimal work on the engine that would repair it satisfactorily. It was my belief that over honing is detrimental. Honing to the top of the bore, unnecessarily enlarges the bore, where it needs to fit closely to the top of the piston, to reduce blowby.
I seem to remember all those years ago, I had 7 out of 12 rings worn so badly that they eventually stuck in, and upon fitting to the bore had up to 160 thou gaps, yet a few weeks before had give me little trouble, and only one piston had had any bore scuffing.
OK what did I see on Wednesday? Top of bore at top of stroke highly polished, with no crosshatching. Some further down the bore, not many though... There never were; as part of my experiment was to prove that only a few oil carrying scratches needed to lube rings, especially with oil squirters.
Not done a compression check, but the assembled engine springs back when trying to rotate with a ratchet. In my oppinion, the most important thing is to deglaze sufficiently to embed/match the new compression rings into the bore before both become a polished misfit, rather than a polished fit.
The whole experiment seems to have worked in this respect.
As I removed no flesh, there is always reboring in the future...
RE the noise; I only had time to reduce the top ridge on two cylinders, as our wonderful MET Office, was predicting a severe storm by 3pm, and I was working outside.
I am going to start a couple of threads tomorrow.
One on the results, of the quick Dremmel fix, and one on why I reassembled with new headbolts. Maybe one on gaskets too making a threesome...
Thanks for reading.
hello, i know that you have huge experience of reusing even head bolts taht are one time only by manual
so i have one question now, should con rod bolts be changed ater 30nm +90 degree toruqing. i have torqued the bolts today and then i remembered that maybe i have installed one of the compression rings wrong (wrong side up) so not to worry about that in the future i will have to double check the pistons is it dangerous to tighten rod bolts 30 nm + 90 degrees few times? are they tend to snapping?
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#99 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 05 Nov, 2013 13:27
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Hi all, thanks for your praise, although who knows how far your tongues are in your cheeks
Gizmoman;
I won't be pulling the pistons, as I see no need to. They have survived years of kissing the valves slightly, due to my overzealous head skim.
This problem was removed by the recent new head.
Proof of the previous regular contact was from the concentric indentations on the piston from the rust nodules on the exhaust valve, as the valve rotated.The valve faces were also 'polished'.
The recent jumped timing belt incident also resulted in no damage to the pistons as the hammer blow of piston to valve to mech shim hit the cam lobe and it being cast, snapped...
The recently checked and Plasti-gauged big end shells were in the range of 2 to 3 thou, with minimal wear.
Did I guess the ridge issue correctly? I'll confess shortly
Vako,
I do indeed reuse rod bolts. I take them up to 35 lbft only.
To decide if yours are safe to reuse [This was first time use correct?] I would measure length of protruding bolts with a digital vernier. If their length has stretched less than 1/4 of the thread pitch, then reuse...
IMO, people over-tighten these bolts due to fear of nuts coming loose or being pulled apart. Look at most used shells and there will only be wear on top shell forced down onto the crank by the explosive force, and nothing on the lower one where bearing cap is being forced off. That is because 'normally' it isn't [much]... -
#100 by vako on 06 Nov, 2013 02:36
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thank you for your t\fast reply (y) i have removed the cylinder checked them and installed the bolts back. torqued them to 30 nm + 50 nm and hope that everything is okay i don't think it will ever come loose by itself, and chanches of the bolt snapping are close to )