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didn't know I was boosting that much on my NA 1.6...
by
vdubspeed
on 21 Feb, 2012 08:19
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I've been driving my Rabbit GTI 1.6L that I installed a mk3 TDI turbo onto for a while now as a daily.
I monitor my EGT's religiously but never really kept up with the boost. I did install a ***ty ass pressure gauge that went to 15psi and knew it spiked the gauge all the time.
Well I finally got off my ass and installed a proper VDO boost gauge that goes to 30psi.
For the record my 11mm 1.6 NA with no internal mods and a fiber gasket will spike to 24psi and hold at 20psi
I let off the fuel once I hit 1200 degrees.
These damn 1.6 motors are AWESOME.
That is all,
Jason
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#1
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 21 Feb, 2012 13:26
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I've been driving my Rabbit GTI 1.6L that I installed a mk3 TDI turbo onto for a while now as a daily.
I monitor my EGT's religiously but never really kept up with the boost. I did install a ***ty ass pressure gauge that went to 15psi and knew it spiked the gauge all the time.
Well I finally got off my ass and installed a proper VDO boost gauge that goes to 30psi.
For the record my 11mm 1.6 NA with no internal mods and a fiber gasket will spike to 24psi and hold at 20psi
I let off the fuel once I hit 1200 degrees.
These damn 1.6 motors are AWESOME.
That is all,
Jason
TOLD YA THERE TOUGH!!
im running 25psi to my stock 1.6n/a courtesy of a K24.. stock re-used fiber gasket, and stock re-used (once) head bolts..
i was running north of 35psi to my
1.5D with stock non-stretch bolts.. then the block finally cracked, and allowed the head to lift a great amount..
a boosted 1.6n/a is capable of the same amount of power as a 1.6TD, just for not as long of a period of time.. if you try and ask for too much power, for too long, your pistons will become very friendly with the bores.. just as long as its a 12mm 1.6n/a... i imagine a 11mm engine would suffer much the same fate as my original 1.5D with high boost pressures.. that wouldnt stop me from boosting one, it would just keep me from running much over 15psi..
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#2
by
vdubspeed
on 21 Feb, 2012 15:51
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15psi is PERFECTLY safe IMO.
I don't see those boost numbers all the time but that's what it can handle. I always see 15psi though.
I just got back from a drive in the GTD. I own a 20V rabbit and a 16vT rabbit, but my 1.6NA-T rabbit is just as fun to drive!
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#3
by
damac
on 21 Feb, 2012 19:44
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What if you came across a good working non turbo engine and wanted to add a turbo, but were willing to crack the block open ahead of time?
Is there anything you could to the lower end at that point to help with the turbo if sticking to near stock boost levels, or is it a waste of time and you should just run it as is?
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#4
by
8v-of-fury
on 21 Feb, 2012 19:47
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Near stock? Would be a complete waste of your time. Stock boost levels (10-12 psi) will be TOTALLY safe on the non-turbo engine.
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#5
by
JamesT
on 21 Feb, 2012 20:18
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Near stock? Would be a complete waste of your time. Stock boost levels (10-12 psi) will be TOTALLY safe on the non-turbo engine.
Well, if I have your guarantee on that one...
Actually that helps. I've got an 12mm 1.6n/a that I want to put into my bunny, and I was considering turbo-ing it so I don't need to run a muffler and get a bit more power, but I was thinking 8-10psi would be a safe limit. If I could run 10-12, that would make me a bit happier.
vdubspeed, what fueling are you using? Is that just an N/A pump with the smoke screw turned in, or do you have an LDA from a turbo on there?
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#6
by
8v-of-fury
on 21 Feb, 2012 20:22
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Absolute guarantee.
. There have been plenty of real time in the field proof that turboing an N/A with stock boost levels works, and is safe.
Honestly I feel anything below 18 psi is safe on a stock motor, even an N/A block. Just so long as you keep the EGT's in check there is no issue. It is not the "boost" that hurts the motor, it is the heat associated with it.
An N/A pump will run a turbo motor just fine, However it will not have the ability to limit fuel when there is no boost present. Meaning there will be a lot of smoke until the turbo begins to produce boost pressures, roughly 21-2300rpm's.
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#7
by
JamesT
on 21 Feb, 2012 20:33
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Absolute guarantee. . There have been plenty of real time in the field proof that turboing an N/A with stock boost levels works, and is safe.
Honestly I feel anything below 18 psi is safe on a stock motor, even an N/A block. Just so long as you keep the EGT's in check there is no issue. It is not the "boost" that hurts the motor, it is the heat associated with it.
An N/A pump will run a turbo motor just fine, However it will not have the ability to limit fuel when there is no boost present. Meaning there will be a lot of smoke until the turbo begins to produce boost pressures, roughly 21-2300rpm's.
Yeah, my AAZ boost pin drives pretty much like that too. I would probably use a smaller turbo on the engine for more driveable boost.
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#8
by
8v-of-fury
on 21 Feb, 2012 20:35
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Absolute guarantee. . There have been plenty of real time in the field proof that turboing an N/A with stock boost levels works, and is safe.
Honestly I feel anything below 18 psi is safe on a stock motor, even an N/A block. Just so long as you keep the EGT's in check there is no issue. It is not the "boost" that hurts the motor, it is the heat associated with it.
An N/A pump will run a turbo motor just fine, However it will not have the ability to limit fuel when there is no boost present. Meaning there will be a lot of smoke until the turbo begins to produce boost pressures, roughly 21-2300rpm's.
Yeah, my AAZ boost pin drives pretty much like that too. I would probably use a smaller turbo on the engine for more driveable boost.
gt-15 or a k03
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#9
by
vdubspeed
on 22 Feb, 2012 05:09
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vdubspeed, what fueling are you using? Is that just an N/A pump with the smoke screw turned in, or do you have an LDA from a turbo on there?
I have the stock NA pump. It has been shimmed, lever repositioned and the fuel screw played with.
I have VERY little smoke upon acceleration off boost and no smoke on boost.
I would like a turbo pump but really can't see the point as this thing runs perfect.
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#10
by
8v-of-fury
on 22 Feb, 2012 09:38
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vdubspeed, what fueling are you using? Is that just an N/A pump with the smoke screw turned in, or do you have an LDA from a turbo on there?
I have VERY little smoke upon acceleration off boost and no smoke on boost.
So either your smart and don't flog the hell out of it before boost hits? However no smoke on boost leads me to believe you could do with a little more fuel
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#11
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 22 Feb, 2012 12:26
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What if you came across a good working non turbo engine and wanted to add a turbo, but were willing to crack the block open ahead of time?
Is there anything you could to the lower end at that point to help with the turbo if sticking to near stock boost levels, or is it a waste of time and you should just run it as is?
complete waste of time to even do anything to the bottom end at stock boost levels.. you dont even start stressing the bottom end until your making over 20psi..
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#12
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 22 Feb, 2012 12:27
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vdubspeed, what fueling are you using? Is that just an N/A pump with the smoke screw turned in, or do you have an LDA from a turbo on there?
I have VERY little smoke upon acceleration off boost and no smoke on boost.
So either your smart and don't flog the hell out of it before boost hits? However no smoke on boost leads me to believe you could do with a little more fuel
x2!
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#13
by
vdubspeed
on 28 Feb, 2012 06:59
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yeah yeah....I know I need more fuel BUT...I want to wait until I install an intercooler.
That and it was already rev hanging a little. Nothing I can do to stop rev hanging!
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#14
by
8v-of-fury
on 28 Feb, 2012 07:46
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Yeah there is!! lol
You need to turn the throttle lever relative to the shaft it turns to relax the governors idle spring inside the pump.
The accelerator lever part that attaches to the governor spring capsule has a short offset and limits the total pull of the accelerator lever. First step would be to jumper the accelerator lever to shaft orientation one spline so that the shaft goes clockwise and the lever goes anti-clockwise. Then readjust the max fuel and idle screws. That should give you a better idle setting and allow you to seriously increase the max fuel.
Jumping another spline relaxes the idle spring and allows it to be adjusted again. There is way more fueling adjustment in the max fuel screw than in the idle screw. When you run out of idle, jump a spline for more adjustment, then adjust the max fuel for more fuel. Give it a try. It works. If it doesn't do what you want you can always put it back.