-
#30
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 17 Feb, 2012 16:59
-
That is what I was thinking.. but I suppose that makes it's possible to hit the switch and end up with a dead battery.. if it gets bumped getting out or something. I'll get it all figured out.. just took a nap.. time to get this finished. 
i used a momentary contact switch, meaning your finger needs to push it to close the circuit.. let off, the switch return to the OFF position..
think starter button, horn button, that type of thing.. basically any switch that has a return function when you let your finger off..
with a momentary contact switch, you CANT leave the plugs on unless the switch fails..
-
#31
by
steevz
on 17 Feb, 2012 19:01
-
I was thinking of getting a push button switch.. only one the auto parts place had was like $40. I said.. EFF that. I'll shop around some more.
Anyone know what I should do with the transmission's electrical plug.. not exactly sure what it's for?
Edit: Here's a pic of the DP. Only sandblasted so far.
-
#32
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 17 Feb, 2012 22:02
-
I'd give about $100-150 for that D-Pipe on the spot.
I've never messed with an Auto VW.
But part of that plug - or some plug somewhere - should have the back-up light wiring. Find which wires do those lights and you can work them back into your 85 Trans switch and have back up lights retained - if you feel ambitious sometime.
-
#33
by
steevz
on 17 Feb, 2012 22:11
-
Yes, after I posted that I was thinking back up wiring. Right now the plug for the backup lights are at the shifter box. If it ever bothers me.. I will run wires to the plug.
Called 'er a night on the car.. but all the wiring is done.. everything is in except the rad. Hook that up tomorrow, add coolant, some diesel, ... still have replace the two outer boots on my cv axles. Repacked the inners, cause they were easy.. and one had gotten dirt in it.
Guess I'll just the car with the gasser tach non fuctional for now.. until I can find a diesel ce2 cluster. Reworking it just seems like a PITA.
-
#34
by
steevz
on 18 Feb, 2012 19:59
-
Swap is done!! Hooray!
Can't get the starter to engage with the key though.. I think it's from the automatic shifter interlock maybe? Anyone know which wires would bypass this?
-
#35
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 18 Feb, 2012 21:35
-
Congrats on the swappage.
No idea on the autoslagic - other than thinking it was probably tied to the shifter - like the reverse lights. But its a VW ....
-
#36
by
8v-of-fury
on 18 Feb, 2012 21:40
-
Yup, automatic is tied to the shifter for a park and neutral cut out switch.
-
#37
by
steevz
on 18 Feb, 2012 21:41
-
Figured.. a2resource doesn't have info on the relay that goes to the shifter. Not sure what wires to jump.. need ideas..
-
#38
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 18 Feb, 2012 22:42
-
Try working it backwards
Remove solenoid wire - and connect a 12V jumper to it.
Get inside and test the wires and see which one is now 12V.
Maybe try to be quick about it too.
After that is found -
Turn key to crank position and hold it.
Test which of the shifter wires is now 12V.
Then tie those 2 confirmed wires together - and see if it cranks/runs with key switch -
or bursts into a raging ball of fire .....
I'd wear a helmet and safety goggles - just for the effect .. lol
-
#39
by
steevz
on 19 Feb, 2012 08:26
-
I'll try and get it figured out this morning. Thanks!
I'd wear a helmet and safety goggles - just for the effect .. lol
Awesome. Just that picture in my mind is priceless.
-
#40
by
steevz
on 19 Feb, 2012 09:48
-
IT'S ALIVE!!!
I had it figured out last night but had the signal wire unhooked from the starter.. lol, was tired.
I was hoping I would be able to crank to purge the air from the system? Not possible after removing lines? LOTS of air coming in the feed. I don't know if the lines just won't self prime or what.. maybe they lose prime and drain back to the tank after the car is shut off. There is no check valve so this is possible? What's the best way to get these primed without having a mityvac? Hoping to have the car drivable for tomorrow.
-
#41
by
theman53
on 19 Feb, 2012 12:08
-
take the out bolt out and pour in diesel. It won't fill it completely but if you pump is dry it works. Towing it in 2nd gear usually works too, key on 25mph or so, pulls it right in.
-
#42
by
steevz
on 19 Feb, 2012 13:14
-
I bought a mityvac.. just need to figure out a way to pull more fluid then the little brake fluid reservoir it came with. I can pull and pull and pull out of the return on the pump and I keep getting air coming out of the filter.. once I have to empty the little bottle I think the air just goes back into the line and I'm right back at step one. Any ideas?
-
#43
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 19 Feb, 2012 14:02
-
Once you buy a MityVac , you are now a confirmed Diesel aficionado.
Welcome to the club. lol
You've got a Major (although probably minor fix) suction leak somewhere.
Is the In-Tank feed pump not in working order ?
The only thing that "might" help some to overcome the small container is to hook MVac to outlet coming off the filter - instead of pulling through the Inj Pump.
Once the car is running - it would purge itself within a couple minutes - unless there is a suction leak. And it sounds like you're running already.
Got your helmet on ?
-
#44
by
steevz
on 19 Feb, 2012 15:27
-
You've got a Major (although probably minor fix) suction leak somewhere.
Is the In-Tank feed pump not in working order ?
That's funny. I just swapped my fuel sender and was going to tell you guys my success! That intank pump must have been FOOBAR'D!
Got your helmet on ?
Haven't taken it off all day!