-
#15
by
steevz
on 15 Feb, 2012 20:25
-
Me too. I have a CE1 diesel cluster and CE2 gasser cluster too.
I have everything to wire up a toggle switch for the glow plugs myself. No problem.
Alright, well in the ECU wiring, the sensors were through the same hole. So I'll just get that part of the loom separated and reuse it. I'll also try and find a CE2 diesel cluster with a tach, I don't really want tthe gasser tach reading the diesel rpms, because it goes up to 7000 so that part with never even be used.
One the plus side, today I got a PP 3" downpipe and full catless 2.5" exhaust for $80 plus some 100mm axles I don't need.
-
#16
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 15 Feb, 2012 20:33
-
Me too. I have a CE1 diesel cluster and CE2 gasser cluster too.
I have everything to wire up a toggle switch for the glow plugs myself. No problem.
Alright, well in the ECU wiring, the sensors were through the same hole. So I'll just get that part of the loom separated and reuse it. I'll also try and find a CE2 diesel cluster with a tach, I don't really want tthe gasser tach reading the diesel rpms, because it goes up to 7000 so that part with never even be used.
One the plus side, today I got a PP 3" downpipe and full catless 2.5" exhaust for $80 plus some 100mm axles I don't need.
SO JELLY!!
-
#17
by
8v-of-fury
on 15 Feb, 2012 20:58
-
One the plus side, today I got a PP 3" downpipe and full catless 2.5" exhaust for $80 plus some 100mm axles I don't need.
Did you kick the siht out of the guy and then just leave him $80 for his pain, lmao. how do people score such deals!!
-
#18
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 15 Feb, 2012 22:21
-
I agree with RoR and 8V ..... Jelly / Kick
I put ECU covers from gassers in my raintrays for more finished cleaner look.
Wouldn't really want an UnLeaded cluster either.
-
#19
by
steevz
on 16 Feb, 2012 14:52
-
One the plus side, today I got a PP 3" downpipe and full catless 2.5" exhaust for $80 plus some 100mm axles I don't need.
Did you kick the siht out of the guy and then just leave him $80 for his pain, lmao. how do people score such deals!!
Found a local forums of VW guys. Some dude has an 8v gasser now, and didn't need them anymore.
Sandblasted the DP today at work.. what's the best way to seal it? Hi temp paint?
Will sand blast the exhaust later.. just really don't want the DP to rot, PP doesn't make em anymore.
Edit: One question.. for the fuel sender.. can I leave the gasser one in there with the little pump? Or should I put the diesel in and swap wires? If I can leave it and that pump is low enough pressure I figure it might help my pump out?
-
#20
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 16 Feb, 2012 18:35
-
Post a pic for us of the 3" PP DownPipe.
Don't remember if i have even seen one that size before.
Eastwood Products used to have a stainless steel impregnated exahust coating.
On the DP it would probably need a refresh once or twice a year - at the top.
On the piping it would hold up a lot longer.
Is a brushable product.
Aerosol products won't last long at all.
Better than nothing tho.
Best bet is to have DP ceramic coated or powder coated.
===================================
Can use existing sender, and that in-tank low press pump.
After it dies - think it has to replaced or deleted - not just left there dead.
If it has the secondary high press pump inline - it needs to be removed.
Believe thats what i remember reading from other Mk2 conversions in the past - about those two pumps.
-
#21
by
steevz
on 16 Feb, 2012 18:48
-
The downpipe is 2.5" *faceplam
My bad.
Well, the tank had 3 lines coming from it.. feed, return, and some small black plastic one.. don't know if it's for air.. or? I cut it, guess I'll just plug it off.
Got the diesel lines hooked up, and the engine dropped in. Stupid me removed the two lower bolts on the tranny mount when taking it off the Golf for some reason.. were easy to access with the automatic tranny in it. Now I dropped the engine in and thought I had the mount bolted down and it's going to be a *** to get them in.. gah. Oh well, it's coming together nicely. Dropping the engine in finally felt good.
-
#22
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 16 Feb, 2012 19:21
-
2.5" is great.
Still would be cool if you could post a pic sometime.
I had never heard anyone mention a 3" store bought DP for these cars before.
TT is 2.25, and PP did some 2.5
That 3rd line is a vent (or EEC) line.
I'd leave it uncapped and in a good clean dry spot (probably about right where it was). Then test it later on with it plugged.
Use the fuel cap from your 85 Diesel.
Diesel = vented cap, Gas = unvented cap ... think i got that right.
And you'll need a fuel filler hole upgrade/enlargement.
-
#23
by
steevz
on 17 Feb, 2012 00:12
-
Still would be cool if you could post a pic sometime.
I'll get you guys a pic tomorrow. Haven't painted it yet, but it's blasted. Looks SO sick.. can't wait!
And you'll need a fuel filler hole upgrade/enlargement.
I was thinking that.. but the majority of the diesel pumps around here have the same sized pump necks as the gas ones (I think).. I won't swap it right away.. and go from there.
For wiring my my GP...
I got a starter solenoid.. my understanding is... I need a GROUND, EXCITER, 12V from BATT and TO GP.
So I was thinking of wiring GROUND to ground, EXCITER (Can I just use a constant or switched 12v source to my switch then to the solenoid?), then 12V to 12v and then to GP.
I guess my question is right there.. can I just use a SWITCHED if I want key activated or else constant.. because it's on a switch power source and then the 12V fromt he battery to power my GP? Is it that simple?
-
#24
by
rodpaslow
on 17 Feb, 2012 08:00
-
The gas neck of a diesel MK2 is larger than the gasser to accept large fuel nozzle at a gas/diesel station. The necks are actually the same size, but there is a reducer inside so you can't fit a larger nozzle properly. The one in my car was plastic, all I did was cut slits in it so the larger nozzle will fit.
I also left the in-tank pump and fuel level sender and after two years of running it, I haven't had any issues in tank due to diesel instead of gas.
-
#25
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 17 Feb, 2012 08:01
-
One the plus side, today I got a PP 3" downpipe and full catless 2.5" exhaust for $80 plus some 100mm axles I don't need.
Did you kick the siht out of the guy and then just leave him $80 for his pain, lmao. how do people score such deals!!
Found a local forums of VW guys. Some dude has an 8v gasser now, and didn't need them anymore.
Sandblasted the DP today at work.. what's the best way to seal it? Hi temp paint?
Will sand blast the exhaust later.. just really don't want the DP to rot, PP doesn't make em anymore.
Edit: One question.. for the fuel sender.. can I leave the gasser one in there with the little pump? Or should I put the diesel in and swap wires? If I can leave it and that pump is low enough pressure I figure it might help my pump out?
i TRIED leaving my pump.. but diesel fuel quickly (within a week of conversion) damaged my lift pump..
and if that lift pump in the tank dies, all it is, is a HUGE air leak.. ASK ME HOW I KNOW!
anyways, for ease of service, i deleted the in tank low pressure pump, and the high pressure pump too.. i replaced the high pressure pump with a solenoid fuel pump for a carburated vehicle.. after i deleted the gasser pumps, and installed a universal pump, ive been good to go on fuel system problems.. nothing to speak of since i built the car. the universal fuel pump i installed, has a internal check valve or 2 also, so fuel does not flow backwards thru it, but if it is not energized, the injection pump can still pull fuel thru it!
if your in tank pump works, then use it.. but if it starts giving you headaches, delete it.
i had spare in tank pumps, that worked, but being as how much of a PITA it is to replace, i deleted it..
-
#26
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 17 Feb, 2012 08:05
-
The downpipe is 2.5" *faceplam
My bad.
Well, the tank had 3 lines coming from it.. feed, return, and some small black plastic one.. don't know if it's for air.. or? I cut it, guess I'll just plug it off.
Got the diesel lines hooked up, and the engine dropped in. Stupid me removed the two lower bolts on the tranny mount when taking it off the Golf for some reason.. were easy to access with the automatic tranny in it. Now I dropped the engine in and thought I had the mount bolted down and it's going to be a *** to get them in.. gah. Oh well, it's coming together nicely. Dropping the engine in finally felt good.
its a feed, return, and VENT line.. that small black line goes to the charcoal canister under the hood, in the pass fender well..
i deleted the charcoal canister.. left the vent line open to the atmosphere..
-
#27
by
steevz
on 17 Feb, 2012 14:46
-
Great, thanks! I'll leave it for now, any signs of problem.. I will just swap it out.
Good to know to keep that vent line open, thank ROR.
For wiring my my GP...
I got a starter solenoid.. my understanding is... I need a GROUND, EXCITER, 12V from BATT and TO GP.
So I was thinking of wiring GROUND to ground, EXCITER (Can I just use a constant or switched 12v source to my switch then to the solenoid?), then 12V to 12v and then to GP.
I guess my question is right there.. can I just use a SWITCHED if I want key activated or else constant.. because it's on a switch power source and then the 12V fromt he battery to power my GP? Is it that simple?
I was drinking when I wrote this out....
I was trying to ask if I can just find a switched power source, then run it to my switch then to my solenoid for GPs..?
-
#28
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 17 Feb, 2012 14:58
-
Great, thanks! I'll leave it for now, any signs of problem.. I will just swap it out.
Good to know to keep that vent line open, thank ROR.
For wiring my my GP...
I got a starter solenoid.. my understanding is... I need a GROUND, EXCITER, 12V from BATT and TO GP.
So I was thinking of wiring GROUND to ground, EXCITER (Can I just use a constant or switched 12v source to my switch then to the solenoid?), then 12V to 12v and then to GP.
I guess my question is right there.. can I just use a SWITCHED if I want key activated or else constant.. because it's on a switch power source and then the 12V fromt he battery to power my GP? Is it that simple?
I was drinking when I wrote this out....
I was trying to ask if I can just find a switched power source, then run it to my switch then to my solenoid for GPs..?
i like to use battery power (constantly hot) to supply the switch that energizes the plugs.. that way you can burn the plugs before you turn the key on.. that way the plugs are the only thing drawing power, and they get the most power available..
my plugs are currently wired to key on power.. meaning i cant burn my plugs unless my key is on..
-
#29
by
steevz
on 17 Feb, 2012 16:54
-
That is what I was thinking.. but I suppose that makes it's possible to hit the switch and end up with a dead battery.. if it gets bumped getting out or something. I'll get it all figured out.. just took a nap.. time to get this finished.