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#15
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 09 Nov, 2011 14:42
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Use a hammer from behind.
Hit the tin. Remove little hex socket bolt that holds the tin still first, then the tin is free to flex up to the pulley.
Bolt only needs a couple of turns slackening, else some have apparently knocked the end off a cam 
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#16
by
rabbitman
on 09 Nov, 2011 16:06
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Use a hammer from behind.
Hit the tin. Remove little hex socket bolt that holds the tin still first, then the tin is free to flex up to the pulley.
Bolt only needs a couple of turns slackening, else some have apparently knocked the end off a cam
Let's not talk about that........ 
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#17
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 11 Nov, 2011 05:42
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Use a hammer from behind.
Hit the tin. Remove little hex socket bolt that holds the tin still first, then the tin is free to flex up to the pulley.
Bolt only needs a couple of turns slackening, else some have apparently knocked the end off a cam
Hit the tin? And end up with a bent and dented tin that won't look right forever after? Was that said with tongue in cheek?
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#18
by
Toby
on 11 Nov, 2011 07:25
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It won't dent the tin. Its laid up tight to the cam gear. It does not take a hard blow, just a sharp one to remove the cam gear. You are not driving railroad spikes; its more like ringing a bell.
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#19
by
Luckypabst
on 11 Nov, 2011 08:02
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Sharp blow to the outside of the cam gear works just as well to break the taper free. From my experience, the cam gear is brittle enough that it will chip before mushrooming... not that either one is necessarily a good thing.
Chris
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#20
by
gnavs
on 11 Nov, 2011 10:07
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I was scared to hit it with a hammer so I used a gear puller and a blowtorch. It was a PITA
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#21
by
maxfax
on 11 Nov, 2011 10:13
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a blowtorch.
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#22
by
8v-of-fury
on 11 Nov, 2011 14:02
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I was scared to hit it with a hammer so I used a gear puller and a blowtorch. It was a PITA
Less scary than a hammer for sure
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#23
by
maxfax
on 11 Nov, 2011 14:10
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Pending how hot things were I'd be wary of using that sprocket over.. Maybe even the cam..
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#24
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 11 Nov, 2011 14:41
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A puller is the wrong tool to use on a tapered fit because it pulls straight out. The force may be tremendous and may weaken the sprocket. A hammer is the right tool and the spot to hit is one of the ribs where it is strongest (with a punch through the hole in the sheet metal). No worry of damaging the sprocket teeth. Hitting the teeth, which is on the biggest o.d, maybe too much of an angle. VW put the hole in the sheet metal (further in diameter wise) so the angle is correct when hit with a punch/hammer.
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#25
by
rabbitman
on 11 Nov, 2011 14:43
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The whole point is that using a METAL hammer will shock it into popping right off, just hit the back of it at a slight angle so it won't even touch the teeth.
I used to think a rubber hammer was the trick since it wouldn't dent anything.......now I use a metal hammer and every time I wonder why the gear is so loose, I torque the bolt to 45ft-lbs and it pops off really easy.
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#26
by
regcheeseman
on 14 Nov, 2011 07:59
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variety is the spice of life so another method....
I've damaged a pulley by getting too enthusiastic with a particularly recalcitrant pulley taper so changed tact.
Slacken nut
I use a wide (4in) brick bolster chisel to act as a lever to apply a little force behind the pulley to lever it away from the engine then give the bolt head a sharp tap.
Maybe not ideal? I'll try the punch through hole technique next time.
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#27
by
vanbcguy
on 14 Nov, 2011 08:17
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I just do it the way the Bentley manual says to do it... Figure they know what they are talking about.
"Loosen the camshaft drive belt sprocket bolt by 1/2 turn. Loosen the sprocket from the camshaft by tapping the back side of the sprocket with a drift through the hole in the rear drive belt cover."
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#28
by
gnavs
on 14 Nov, 2011 13:28
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Well now I know
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#29
by
8v-of-fury
on 14 Nov, 2011 14:32
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Well now I know
Can YOU say Dead Horse??