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#45
by
rodpaslow
on 08 Nov, 2011 13:03
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Yeah it sounds really off, at anything over 10 psi. Thanks.
I have to make a quick manual boost controller. (have to stop at B&T/Applied) and get a 3/8 dia steel ball the rest I can pick up at a local hardware store after hours. I make about 10 psi max now and it drops to about 5 once the boost can interjects. I'd like max to be about 18 psi.
I'm a bit concerned after blowing the last turbo, not to go over that. What do most people run for psi cruising? If I increase it using a boost controller I think my cruising psi will be higher as well as the boost can won't be getting any signal(have to try it and see if I can adjust the vnt control). I may have to add a solenoid that has a microswitch on the throttle that only cuts in the high manual boost controller at or near full throttle....
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#46
by
Swartzvw
on 08 Nov, 2011 13:13
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I have my vanes tied partially closed and run ~18psi max and cruising at around 70mph im making about 4psi.
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#47
by
rodpaslow
on 15 Nov, 2011 10:39
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I've ran it for about 1 hours drive and found I have oil in my coolant. Something in my headgasket change hasn't worked. ARP head bolts are torque to 100 ft lbs. I don't think going higher will help.
I'm thinking when I change it to go back to a fibre gasket as it will seal better. I'm sure the surface I cleaned before I installed this last one were near perfect. Everything was straight and flat, usually first thing I check.
I'm questioning aftermarket parts. Are OEM gaskets (meaning VW) going to be better quality for a head gasket? I know you pay through the nose, but I only want to do this one more time (cause it's cold now[below freezing] -8°C and lower).
The other thing is(I've read)will aviation gasket sealer or some kind of partially fluid material going to help the head gasket slightly move around and find it's place and help any tiny tiny leak? I've talked to some old timers and they tend to use something to help the head gasket move around a bit to 'find' its end location. Maybe whitch-craft of somekind?
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#48
by
vanbcguy
on 15 Nov, 2011 10:45
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Is the oil in the coolant definitely from a leak though, or is it just left over from the head gasket change itself? Are you loosing oil?
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#49
by
rodpaslow
on 15 Nov, 2011 12:55
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It's definitely oil leak with the head gasket as it runs beautifully. I ran it for about and hour (1/2 hour a couple times). I started it Saturday and noticed the coolant tank looked darker. I open it after just starting the car (was still cold) and dipped my finger in the tank and it had a good coating of oil. I had cleaned all the oil from the cylinders when I had the head off, so I'm sure the oil is new from a leak.
The question is, go back to a fiber gasket and/or use some form of sealer to help with sealing these little problem(eg aviation gasket sealer). As far as combustion goes, I could run it the way it is with no problems except for oil in the coolant. That's not satisfactory to me!
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#50
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 15 Nov, 2011 14:27
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It's definitely oil leak with the head gasket as it runs beautifully. I ran it for about and hour (1/2 hour a couple times). I started it Saturday and noticed the coolant tank looked darker. I open it after just starting the car (was still cold) and dipped my finger in the tank and it had a good coating of oil. I had cleaned all the oil from the cylinders when I had the head off, so I'm sure the oil is new from a leak.
The question is, go back to a fiber gasket and/or use some form of sealer to help with sealing these little problem(eg aviation gasket sealer). As far as combustion goes, I could run it the way it is with no problems except for oil in the coolant. That's not satisfactory to me!
do you have a stock style oil cooler? (warmer)
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#51
by
rodpaslow
on 16 Nov, 2011 07:52
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No, I don't have a stock oil cooler. It's actual an 83 vintage GTI with the filter and has the outlets to an aftermarket oil cooler. No coolant runs through it.
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#52
by
theman53
on 16 Nov, 2011 07:58
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I don't have any issues with mine at 100ft/lbs. I didn't run the engine before final torque. I stepped it up, but I plugged the block heater in for a day and let it cool and did it again. I think the combustion force is hard on these gaskets to make them want to leak. Did you check the head and block surfaces? I also covered mine in the hylomar sealant. 53willy's had trouble and took his studs to 120ft/lbs IIRC then they were ok
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#53
by
rodpaslow
on 16 Nov, 2011 10:28
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I did check both head and block surfaces for flatness - they were fine and I made sure they were very clean no residue left from the old head gasket in areas that contacted. the combustion areas were pretty clean too, I was impressed with that. But all areas that needed to be clean were clean before I started putting the head back on.
I have some work to do yet, I still have to take the turbo off and remove the lines and glow plug wire, a few other minor things and pull the head off again. I haven't decided what to buy yet - a proper vw 1.6 head gasket, if available or a 1.9 metal one and try again...?
I have to buy a new turbo too, as I think the vnt 15 I have as a second has a seal leaking as the little time I ran it, there is oil dripping from the exhaust connection. Maybe a VNT 17 this time so I can comfortably run 20+ psi.
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#54
by
rodpaslow
on 16 Nov, 2011 10:48
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Did you just use the Hylomar Blue? I think I'm going to get some of that stuff and use it too!
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#55
by
theman53
on 16 Nov, 2011 13:19
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#56
by
rodpaslow
on 16 Nov, 2011 21:11
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Thanks, I will be buying that, spray I think will make it much easier to be even. I've read over most of your build and noticed lately you've had a bit of a problem with boost. Hope you've got it sorted. Is that a vnt turbo as well or is it wastegated?
I had one question - you in the posts used some white, I think it was teflon to fill some holes in the mls head gasket. What was that for? Are you using a mechanical head not a hydraulic lifter head?
Thanks again.
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#57
by
theman53
on 17 Nov, 2011 05:10
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Yep MLS on mech head and mech block. The stuff has been perfect and worked amazing, the white stuff is called teflon joint sealant tape. I know a guy that replaced a head gasket on a gasser with it for a while, yep, it will hold up to combustion for about a week.
It is the K24. I run out of air, so I am going to a 2256vk soon.
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#58
by
rodpaslow
on 24 Nov, 2011 08:05
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Well, I've finally got the head off again as I can work in the weather we have for a while( around 0 or 32°F). I cleaned it last night and will check straightness again just to make sure, and am waiting to receive my Hylomar yet.
I am going to buy a new turbo once everything is back together. It will either be VNT 17 or the hybid 17/22. Has anyone run this with a 1.6? I'm just wondering if the 17/22 will not boost as quickly if it's a 1.6 and not a 1.9? It's also another $400 above the 17.
I'd appreciate any info if anyone had run either of these and what kind of success they've had on a 1.6. I'm only planning on running around 20 psi at a max and the 15, might due fine, but I read the 17 has a better shaft,etc.
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#59
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 24 Nov, 2011 08:34
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Well, I've finally got the head off again as I can work in the weather we have for a while( around 0 or 32°F). I cleaned it last night and will check straightness again just to make sure, and am waiting to receive my Hylomar yet.
I am going to buy a new turbo once everything is back together. It will either be VNT 17 or the hybid 17/22. Has anyone run this with a 1.6? I'm just wondering if the 17/22 will not boost as quickly if it's a 1.6 and not a 1.9? It's also another $400 above the 17.
I'd appreciate any info if anyone had run either of these and what kind of success they've had on a 1.6. I'm only planning on running around 20 psi at a max and the 15, might due fine, but I read the 17 has a better shaft,etc.
do you really need more boost than the VNT 15 is capable of? i think the VNT17 even has the same high end restrictions of the VNT15..
high drive pressure at high RPMs.
the VNT15 actually got added to the VNT17 line.. mines a GT1749VNT.. i dont think the extra cost will be worth it. ive been abusing a VNT15 (1749VNT) for almost 5 years now. and its still amazing how good it works. never had an issue with it.
yes, whatever turbo you use, will spool slower on a 1.6, rather than on a 1.9
