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#15
by
Powered by Spearco
on 28 Aug, 2011 19:39
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You don't have to route it to the road to get rid of the CC vapors, if you have the room in your engine bay, add a catch tank and then reroute the vapors back to the turbo inlet. Also if you do add a catch can, depending on where you mount it and if you want the excess oil to drain back to the block or just empty it every so often.
I on the other hand, vent it out to the ground but later plan to do a catch can with no return.
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#16
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 28 Aug, 2011 19:54
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You don't have to route it to the road to get rid of the CC vapors, if you have the room in your engine bay, add a catch tank and then reroute the vapors back to the turbo inlet. Also if you do add a catch can, depending on where you mount it and if you want the excess oil to drain back to the block or just empty it every so often.
I on the other hand, vent it out to the ground but later plan to do a catch can with no return.
x2 on the road draft setup, thats how im running mine. i would not just put a filter on it and vent it to the atmosphere.. you want it to go towards the ground, or towards the sky.. diesel blow-by is stinky stuff..
and your intake will always have oil in it.. the seals in a turbo are not exact enough to keep every single spec of oil within the center section of the turbo.. i have a road draft tube on my car, and a turbo, but i still get oil in my intake.
i really dont understand why everyone is soo worried by a little oil in the intake?!
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#17
by
fatmobile
on 29 Aug, 2011 09:09
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I don't get 15 with the vanes open either,.. but got 35psi with the vanes closed if I wasn't paying attention.
I still don't have a good idea of how much oil drained from the turbo over a certain length of time.
The vacuum pump will actually pressureise the block if there is a vacuum leak.
You also didn't give much info about how much gasses were coming from the port on the oil pan when you removed the turbo drain.
The inside of the turbo will be at the same pressure as the block.
Even though ROR had huge block pressure and claims no extra oil coming from the turbo,
he's not concerned about oil from the turbo.
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#18
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 29 Aug, 2011 10:23
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weird.. am i the only one who gets 15 psi with my vanes open?
i know they are WIDE OPEN.. i took the turbo apart to open them since they are stuck.
yes, if the vanes are closed, you DO get 35 psi in a hurry..
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#19
by
camboscams
on 29 Aug, 2011 16:02
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I don't get 15 with the vanes open either,.. but got 35psi with the vanes closed if I wasn't paying attention.
I still don't have a good idea of how much oil drained from the turbo over a certain length of time.
The vacuum pump will actually pressureise the block if there is a vacuum leak.
You also didn't give much info about how much gasses were coming from the port on the oil pan when you removed the turbo drain.
The inside of the turbo will be at the same pressure as the block.
Even though ROR had huge block pressure and claims no extra oil coming from the turbo,
he's not concerned about oil from the turbo.
Well as to the gases coming out from the pan end of the oil drain i have no idea. as the oil return is below the level of oil and it was plugged. It may have been due to the incline and the fact that it was jacked high enough for me to slide under it. But the line from the block going to the vacuum pump is disconnected so it has every chance to not be under much pressure.
And yes ROR apparently so. You must have an anomaly
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#20
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 29 Aug, 2011 16:05
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I don't get 15 with the vanes open either,.. but got 35psi with the vanes closed if I wasn't paying attention.
I still don't have a good idea of how much oil drained from the turbo over a certain length of time.
The vacuum pump will actually pressureise the block if there is a vacuum leak.
You also didn't give much info about how much gasses were coming from the port on the oil pan when you removed the turbo drain.
The inside of the turbo will be at the same pressure as the block.
Even though ROR had huge block pressure and claims no extra oil coming from the turbo,
he's not concerned about oil from the turbo.
Well as to the gases coming out from the pan end of the oil drain i have no idea. as the oil return is below the level of oil and it was plugged. It may have been due to the incline and the fact that it was jacked high enough for me to slide under it. But the line from the block going to the vacuum pump is disconnected so it has every chance to not be under much pressure.
And yes ROR apparently so. You must have an anomaly
weird.. and i was starting to think that my turbo might be needing a rebuild in the future.. im just gonna leave well enough alone for the time being. it doesnt smoke, and it still boosts hard.
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#21
by
rodpaslow
on 30 Aug, 2011 14:03
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I read you use a g60 valve cover. Just makin sure your using the plastic cover that MK2's and up came with. If you don't have that with the G60 cover you'll be using a large amount of oil; by my experience anyway.
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#22
by
camboscams
on 30 Aug, 2011 14:47
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Good point, i do have the valve cover baffle that rests on top of the cam retaining cap studs.
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#23
by
camboscams
on 01 Sep, 2011 17:05
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So if for whatever reason i'm blowing oil past my seals will it damage them or damage the bearing assembly in anyway?
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#24
by
AudiVWguy
on 03 Sep, 2011 20:42
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For testing purposes just vent the valve cover to atmosphere. Also make sure the intake is plugged anywhere it could put boost back into the block.
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#25
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 04 Sep, 2011 16:55
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So if for whatever reason i'm blowing oil past my seals will it damage them or damage the bearing assembly in anyway?
run a vent from the front of the crank case, off that port where the vacuum pump blows back in. vent both of those to a LARGE catch can, or the road. make sure you use atleast 1/2", or 5/8" internal diameter tubing..
thats what i had to do to my 1.5TD.
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#26
by
rodpaslow
on 06 Sep, 2011 11:26
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my opinion only - take with a grain of salt; but I find (my 1.6 only has about 15000mi on it, since new pistons, proper re-bore,etc) that over 18-20 lbs of boost, crank pressure increases exponentially. I've had my oil dipstick come out once around that pressure and it's a relatively new engine. I went to 1" diameter hose from the valve cover back to the intake and not had the oil level drop at all since changing to a larger hose. Although I don't know if that's helped, but I think going from 1/2" or 5/8" hose to 1" has to allow more venting. I also keep my max boost below 20 psi as well with the VNT.
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#27
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 06 Sep, 2011 11:38
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your rings definitely are NOT seated perfectly to the bores either.. so thats letting a little extra blow by in the crank case..
yes, i feel that if you stay below 20 psi, its easy to keep the oil in the engine, and keep the blow by levels low enough to manage..