any trailer wiring converter will work.. but you need the wiring converter box for imports.. american made vehicles use 1 bulb with 2 filaments for brake, constant, and turn..
imports usually use 2 bulbs (one for brake and constant, and one for the turn signals..
so you get that little converter box, splice it into your light wiring, and you are good to go..
Exactly... I have a converter that is connected to my rear brake / turn lights and provides a standard 4-pin flat connector. You definitely need the adapter, but they're only about $25 or so. My trailer hitch installation included it for less $$ than it would have cost to buy the parts so I just let them take care of it.
The connector is just loose in my trunk, I pop it out and close the trunk on the wires when I have something to tow. Jezebel definitely takes the trailer no problem - I would imagine a motorcycle trailer would be no issue whatsoever.
Don't you just hate improvements that start cascading into other unknown or not noticed before problems. I found the installation of some foam in the roof prior to a headliner kit install to do the same thing. Now that I have switched my IP pressure around, re-timed the engine and can barely hear it running I too am noticing my running gear or transmission up front growling like a small bear. Oh well best to start figuring it out now before something wears away. Or the bearings fail like the rears.
Don't need that problem again.
Yeah, at the same time though I had such a fantastic time driving up in to the interior this weekend that I'm all gung ho to improve whatever on the car. I'm sure the wheel bearings need to be done either way, but if it gets to the transmission I'll have to do some hard thinking about what I want to do. As soon as the transmission is getting pulled I need to think about the engine, and an mTDI would be about the only thing I could imagine putting back in that space after pulling my MF out. Of course that's worth about $5K so I'm hoping the transmission will last another 24 months or so.
Speaking of bears, we saw 6 black bears driving through Manning Park on this trip. In my entire lifetime before this I think I'd seen 6 so that pretty much doubled it. Oh and a ton of deer, but they kinda come with the territory up here.
One thing I've wondered about from the beginning with this build is the longevity of the intercooler pump. The motor in the Bosch pump I've used is rated for 5000 hours, which would come to about 200,000 km averaging 40 km/h. I think that's reasonable enough.
I was however thinking about getting one of the Auber gauges, using their intake air temperature probe and then having it kick the pump in whenever IAT's increased much beyond a preset value (like say 35°C or something). Turns out that's what Mercedes did with almost the same pump on some of their intercooled vehicles! Only thing is it seems that pump gets eaten big time in that application, so I did some more digging.
While I haven't found a definitive statement yet, it appears many similar pumps that have a 5000 hour rating on their motor also have a 10,000 start rating, IE the pump can be started 10,000 times. In the Mercedes application a lot of folks were having their pumps die by 50,000 km - much less than my predicted "continuous running" figure. Once you think about it a bit more and realize how often the pump would be cycling in any given drive it makes a ton of sense! Every time a Merc owner puts their foot down that would count as a pump start. How many times might someone accelerate while driving? Apparently about once every 5 km given their longevity figures, which again makes perfect sense.
So I think I'll be leaving my pump set up to run continuously... If it ever DOES die, there is a brushless version available that is rated for 20,000 hours instead of 5,000 although it flows about 10-15% less. Something to think about.
I'm still planning on going for the Auber EGT gauge, I really like the idea of a gauge that I can reconfigure to measure just about anything. I think I can fit two of them below my heater controls and still keep the rear window defog switch there, or possibly three or even four if I relocate the defog. Not sure what I want to do yet or exactly what I want to measure. I do have an existing mechanical boost gauge, but it isn't mounted anywhere, it's just loose behind the cupholders right now. I also have an oil pressure gauge that isn't installed permanently (the wiring is in place but I never found a good gauge mounting solution - I use it to check on my oil pressure once in a while).
Thinking something like:
- EGT (duh)
- Oil pressure
- Boost (maybe, I'm ok with my current boost gauge though, and it's only so relevant once you have EGT)
- Intake Air Temp - really only something I'm curious about though and not really necessary to know
There's other stuff I could measure... water temp in my AWIC for instance. Post-turbo temperature... Oil temp would probably be a good one though a bit more difficult to measure... A real engine temp gauge rather than just the factory one? Lots of possibilities. I'll be away for a week and we just started a postal strike so I'm not going to order anything now but once I get back....
any trailer wiring converter will work.. but you need the wiring converter box for imports.. american made vehicles use 1 bulb with 2 filaments for brake, constant, and turn..
imports usually use 2 bulbs (one for brake and constant, and one for the turn signals..
so you get that little converter box, splice it into your light wiring, and you are good to go..
Exactly... I have a converter that is connected to my rear brake / turn lights and provides a standard 4-pin flat connector. You definitely need the adapter, but they're only about $25 or so. My trailer hitch installation included it for less $$ than it would have cost to buy the parts so I just let them take care of it.
The connector is just loose in my trunk, I pop it out and close the trunk on the wires when I have something to tow. Jezebel definitely takes the trailer no problem - I would imagine a motorcycle trailer would be no issue whatsoever.
Don't you just hate improvements that start cascading into other unknown or not noticed before problems. I found the installation of some foam in the roof prior to a headliner kit install to do the same thing. Now that I have switched my IP pressure around, re-timed the engine and can barely hear it running I too am noticing my running gear or transmission up front growling like a small bear. Oh well best to start figuring it out now before something wears away. Or the bearings fail like the rears.
Don't need that problem again.
Yeah, at the same time though I had such a fantastic time driving up in to the interior this weekend that I'm all gung ho to improve whatever on the car. I'm sure the wheel bearings need to be done either way, but if it gets to the transmission I'll have to do some hard thinking about what I want to do. As soon as the transmission is getting pulled I need to think about the engine, and an mTDI would be about the only thing I could imagine putting back in that space after pulling my MF out. Of course that's worth about $5K so I'm hoping the transmission will last another 24 months or so.
Speaking of bears, we saw 6 black bears driving through Manning Park on this trip. In my entire lifetime before this I think I'd seen 6 so that pretty much doubled it. Oh and a ton of deer, but they kinda come with the territory up here.
i tow my duck boat, motor cycle, and basically anything small enough to hook to my car, and it pulls just fine, even for being a gasser..
K, EGT gauge is ordered now... I decided to go with the Auber one as it appears it will fit PERFECTLY in my Mk III dash, plus they also had a nice digital controller to replace the temperature controller in my kegerator... Sweeeeeet....
JDM/EDM spec subaru legacy's with AWIC setup have their pump hooked up to the TPS. I forget the settings but it would run at 50% with the throttle anywhere under 80% then when the gas pedal was pressed beyond 80% the pump kicked into 100% power (or something like that). Food for thought but having it thermostatically controlled crossed my mind for my setup as well. Let us know what you come up with.
Thomas