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#15
by
8v-of-fury
on 18 Apr, 2011 10:10
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Another point worth noting on the smaller exhausts on the diesels was also because they were never really meant to be rev'd more than 3500 from factory.. No need to have such a big intake or exhaust to move so much air if it didn't need too..
However I think a 3" exhaust and 3" intake tubing, as well as the Governor Mod in my signature.. Will liven this little beast up to intense proportions!
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#16
by
maxfax
on 18 Apr, 2011 10:13
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a 3" exhaust
Leave some money in the budget for hearing aides.....
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#17
by
8v-of-fury
on 18 Apr, 2011 10:56
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Use the earplugs those competition sound guys use
. Got it all figured out.
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#18
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 18 Apr, 2011 11:25
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Another point worth noting on the smaller exhausts on the diesels was also because they were never really meant to be rev'd more than 3500 from factory.. No need to have such a big intake or exhaust to move so much air if it didn't need too..
However I think a 3" exhaust and 3" intake tubing, as well as the Governor Mod in my signature.. Will liven this little beast up to intense proportions!
theres no reason to run a 3" system if the turbo motors dont even benefit from a full 3" system, over a full 2.5" system..
i wouldnt think you would need more than a 2" system on a n/a.. theres just no reason to run an over kill exhaust system. 3" is hard to fit under the car anyways.. alot harder to fit than a 2.5" system..
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#19
by
trav1856
on 18 Apr, 2011 13:03
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Damn 'Murricans indeed Vanagon.. I had convinced a customer to put 2" pipe on his Jetta Coupe.. We actually used a decent muffler and the damned thing was still rather loud, but darn did that bugger run and sound good... It was too loud for his tastes unfortunately.. The addition of a resonator made it tolerable but at a noticeable loss of power..
if you add 3" or larger piping to your air box, instead of the 1.5" snorkel its got, that will help more than a different intake manifold..
Right on!!! Plumb it right up beside the radiator beside the grill and you'll have faux ram air! However you'll want to not do that in very cold temps...
so maybe a switchable air intake feed? Pull a cable....bam...no air from the psuedo-ram. Instead it gets it from inside the engine compartment. In fact I think you'd be able to use a cable-activated gasser exhaust dump (something like this:
http://img216.exs.cx/img216/2440/dsc018211ym.jpg)
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#20
by
8v-of-fury
on 18 Apr, 2011 15:24
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Trav! I dig the hell out of that idea. Pull it right near the manifolds, for a little warmer air when its super duper cold out, and blam cold air when you want it
I agree the 3" would be overkill. 2.25 is more than enough.
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#21
by
trav1856
on 18 Apr, 2011 15:29
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I'm please you approve, I thought it would be a good idea, but wasn't entirely sure.
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#22
by
maxfax
on 18 Apr, 2011 22:30
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That would work pretty slick.. If you frequent bone yards check out some air cleaner snorkels on some older stuff.. They basically did the same thing back in the day except they used hot air off the exhaust to aid in warm up.. Usually they worked off vacuum, but some used a bimetal spring.. Might be able to snag one cheap..
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#23
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 19 Apr, 2011 10:31
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That would work pretty slick.. If you frequent bone yards check out some air cleaner snorkels on some older stuff.. They basically did the same thing back in the day except they used hot air off the exhaust to aid in warm up.. Usually they worked off vacuum, but some used a bimetal spring.. Might be able to snag one cheap..
open up the air box on a mk2 VW. all of them had the flap for if it was too cold..
they sucked air off the exhaust manifold when it was super cold outside. then when the air warmed up enough, the box would switch from hot manifold air, to cool fender well air..
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#24
by
trav1856
on 19 Apr, 2011 12:11
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Speaking of Hot and Cold.
I've got a knob on the right hand side of my steering wheel that looks like a choke cable (but we all know it's not), is this the cold start cable? (and what does it do?)..advances the timing or something?
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#25
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 19 Apr, 2011 12:59
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Speaking of Hot and Cold.
I've got a knob on the right hand side of my steering wheel that looks like a choke cable (but we all know it's not), is this the cold start cable? (and what does it do?)..advances the timing or something?
yes, cold start advance..
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#26
by
trav1856
on 19 Apr, 2011 13:49
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Speaking of Hot and Cold.
I've got a knob on the right hand side of my steering wheel that looks like a choke cable (but we all know it's not), is this the cold start cable? (and what does it do?)..advances the timing or something?
yes, cold start advance..
I love you, man
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#27
by
8v-of-fury
on 19 Apr, 2011 20:44
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the ", man" in the i love you sentence is what takes that phrase from being awkward.. to socially acceptable.
Pulling the cold start advance lever mechanically advances the piston inside the pump by about 0.05mm (i think) if you were to use a dial indicator and pull the lever out. Generally with a stock setting of around 0.90mm the advance to 0.95mm really helps a ton for cold starting and warm-up. However with todays advanced power settings of 1.00mm and up, the coldstart lever is rendered pretty much useless.. unless you have an mk2 pump which should also have an idle increase on it as well when you pull the lever
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#28
by
trav1856
on 19 Apr, 2011 22:52
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So if I do the governor mod and set it to 1.0mm, I wouldn't need the advance? Gotcha. Now the other question is, this plunger thing, I keep hearing people say put a bigger plunger and a 1.9 cam plate. Necessary?
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#29
by
maxfax
on 20 Apr, 2011 01:15
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Not without a turbo......