Looking for 110-120bhp from GTD do-able or need Giles? - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Looking for 110-120bhp from GTD do-able or need Giles? by wil892 on 05 Apr, 2011 08:59
• Hi
  I need to get a new injection pump, mine in unmistakably on its way out. I could buy a new pump or buy a Giles pump, I'm not entirely sure if there will be much difference in price but should I buy a Giles pump if I want around 110-120bhp reliably? I am not to keen on ripping a new pump open myself so any mods would be boost and fuel screw related if I did the modifications.
  I have a boost controller and gauge, thinking of EGT gauge and I have a set of ARP studs I will be fitting. Are the ARPs needed if I'm am only running a K14 turbo, I doubt it will be pushing more than 15-17psi and I would like to keep the motor as stock as possible to keep it reliable. I have heard ARPs need retorquing quite often.
  
  What kind of power would a giles pump produce with a K14? The engine would be using the stock underbonnet intercooler found on GTDs.
  
  will
• #1 by R.O.R-2.0 on 05 Apr, 2011 09:11
• Quote from: wil892 on 05 Apr, 2011 08:59

  Hi
  I need to get a new injection pump, mine in unmistakably on its way out. I could buy a new pump or buy a Giles pump, I'm not entirely sure if there will be much difference in price but should I buy a Giles pump if I want around 110-120bhp reliably? I am not to keen on ripping a new pump open myself so any mods would be boost and fuel screw related if I did the modifications.
  I have a boost controller and gauge, thinking of EGT gauge and I have a set of ARP studs I will be fitting. Are the ARPs needed if I'm am only running a K14 turbo, I doubt it will be pushing more than 15-17psi and I would like to keep the motor as stock as possible to keep it reliable. I have heard ARPs need retorquing quite often.
  
  What kind of power would a giles pump produce with a K14? The engine would be using the stock underbonnet intercooler found on GTDs.
  
  will
  

  
  if you dont wanna go wild, then why get a wild fuel pump? my pump is a stock rebuild, and i bet my car has more than 110hp..
  
  a stock rebuild should cost about half of a giles pump..
  
  but it is all up to you in the end..
• #2 by burn_your_money on 05 Apr, 2011 09:22
• You would be wise to email Giles and discuss your HP goals and boost levels and see what he has to say.
  
  I think you could tweak the pump yourself to get 100hp, but it will likely smoke more and get worse mileage then a Giles pump.
• #3 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 05 Apr, 2011 13:19
• Quote from: wil892 on 05 Apr, 2011 08:59

  Hi
  I need to get a new injection pump, mine in unmistakably on its way out. I could buy a new pump or buy a Giles pump, I'm not entirely sure if there will be much difference in price but should I buy a Giles pump if I want around 110-120bhp reliably? I am not to keen on ripping a new pump open myself so any mods would be boost and fuel screw related if I did the modifications...will
  

  Hi Will;
   Why do you say your existing pump is on it's way out?
   Have you tried adding more fuel on the max fuel screw?
  Have you tried turning the aneroid cone to  a steeper slope, or even leaner sloe and more on the max screw?
  If you notice a big difference without too much smoke, then you should be safe for short bursts until you get an egt gauge.
  Keep an eye on how the coolant temps change too.
  New or readjusted injectors or timing can make a difference also.
  All freebies.
• #4 by wil892 on 06 Apr, 2011 05:40
• So basically I could make power like that out of a stock pump by myself but it would be smokey and less efficient. If I went with Giles I would be looking at a bit higher figures but with good fuel consumption and less smoke. Giles pumps do sound the buisness, will just have to find some cash. What are the normal performance rebuilds like for everyday driving (smokewise and consumptionwise)
  
  Basically mark, my fuel pump is set to 1.25mm static advance at the moment to have to car running properly. The car drives fine but is more smokey than ideal and I'm sure the fuel economy could be better. I have check cam crank timing and it is bang on, next thing to do is compression test but I don't seem to have any of the issues low compression causes. I have run the pump like that for a good 15-20k miles, but I've got the chance to put everything right now with it being off the road so want to do it properly.
• #5 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 06 Apr, 2011 17:35
• 1.25 is quite high.
  Does it not clack quite a bit?
  I'm not sure what my mother in law's GTD is set to.
  It's left for 3 months at a time, and starts after 1st glow, and a couple of revs.
  More fuelling doesn't always mean more smoke, if timing is corrrect, or injectors atomising optimally, because turbo spools up more and gives more air.
  
  I have found one way to tune an engine is to accelerate whilst touching the gearknob, and feeling for the vibrations [pinking], and altering timing till it smooths out.
• #6 by regcheeseman on 22 May, 2011 13:35
• Dunno how I missed this post bud, but how you doing.
  
  I'm up in Barnstaple, I've built a few pumps and am passionate about the GTD.
  
  My last caddy pushed 130 brake with little smoke and mid 40s mpg - it would dust a Mk1 GTI with ease. A very stock motor with only pump mods and a boost controller
  
  The next one should be over 150 brake and is a little special.
  
  There are better ways to spend your money than a new pump especially in the UK where our pumps are a little different to the US ones