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#15 by Smokey Eddy on 24 Jun, 2010 11:25
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Wow really nice work on the clean up!
I don't really want to post my progress now
Do you have any shots of how the brackets go on the block?
im using 1.6 brackets because i am keeping all my stuff from my 1.6 set up (i have an aaz head and block) -
#16 by BAM on 24 Jun, 2010 11:40
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Not trying to slow you down but the first pic of your cylinder head it appears like there are cracks at the pre-cups and that could create some unhappiness if the cracks are in fact there. If the cup comes loose it will cut the head gasket and work it way into the cylinder then it makes one hell of a mess. New cylinder head castings are very reasonable, also solves your cracks between the valves situation
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#17 by sawedoffgolf on 25 Jun, 2010 20:55
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Yesterday my G60 valve cover arrived in the mail and now I've set about making damn sure it's possible to run it on an AAZ head before I start drilling and tapping. Can I get confirmation from you veterans?
Hey buddy i still got that dd keychain for ya. Some aaz heads come with the holes machined for the traditional style valve cover so i would imagine you could get away with tapping them and putting studs in, would also need different cam caps since on the aaz it has the studs built in. At the same time some aaz's only came with the outer holes machined for the valve cover gasket to clip onto. -
#18 by kaneb on 26 Jun, 2010 15:24
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We honed the block today. This is going to be minty when it's done!!
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#19 by gnavs on 28 Jun, 2010 09:43
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Not trying to slow you down but the first pic of your cylinder head it appears like there are cracks at the pre-cups and that could create some unhappiness if the cracks are in fact there. If the cup comes loose it will cut the head gasket and work it way into the cylinder then it makes one hell of a mess. New cylinder head castings are very reasonable, also solves your cracks between the valves situation
True, I was planning on just running it while looking for a replacement in the meantime. Where is a good place to get new heads? I remember reading about some Brazilian made ones but can't find them now.
I tried to press out he old valve stems and got a bit put off by how much force I was using, broke a couple brass punches trying to get one out. Quote from a machinist was $150-200 to install new guides and re-align the valve seats so if I can get a bare head with 7mm guides for anything near that price I'll probably just do that.QuoteHey buddy i still got that dd keychain for ya. Some aaz heads come with the holes machined for the traditional style valve cover so i would imagine you could get away with tapping them and putting studs in, would also need different cam caps since on the aaz it has the studs built in. At the same time some aaz's only came with the outer holes machined for the valve cover gasket to clip onto.
Sweet, I looked into this a bit this weekend and it looks like it's completely possible with some patient drilling/tapping. The studs in the cam caps come out so that obstacle is no more. I'm sure the 1.6 valve cover gasket would fit as well. The G60 valve cover is a bit of a side project for now, I just want to get the bottom end back together and figure out this cylinder head stuff first.QuoteWe honed the block today. This is going to be minty when it's done!!
Thanks again for the help Kane. I'm still crossing my fingers all goes well during reassembly. Funds are definitely getting tight, especially with Stampede coming up
BTW everyone, Kane's car is awesome...
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#20 by gnavs on 21 Jul, 2010 07:53
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Here's an old pic of Kane honing my block
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#21 by gnavs on 21 Jul, 2010 08:16
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Aaaand on to the real progress. I set about getting my old valve guides out of the head and decided to try a method I came across online. Worked like a charm.
1. Drilled out the center of the guide, I used a 5/16" bit. Be damn sure you're drilling straight down, a drill press would be best here but I just went for it. I'm crazy like that...
The overall diameter of the 7mm guides is in the neighborhood of 12mm, the new hole left a the guide a lot weaker and easier to remove.
2. Tapped the newly drilled hole, I used a 16NC just because of the bolt I was using.
3. Threaded my bolt into the newly tapped hole and tightened it down.
4. Flipped the head over and used another bolt to hammer down on the threaded one. I should have used a punch but I couldn't find mine for some reason, damn garage elves.
5. And presto, guide is out. Obviously unusable but that's exactly the reason why they needed to come out in the first place.
So now I'll be addressing these cracks between the valves and possibly do some mild porting. I've lined up an aluminum welder who will work for beer so hopefully I'm able to clean these cracks up a bit. What I was thinking was using some old valves to just have in place when the welding happens so that my valve seats don't get messed up. If anyone's got suggestions on this let me know. -
#22 by fck on 21 Jul, 2010 21:42
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gnavs!
there you are!
it's "fckreher99" from vortex.
good to see you doing well, keep up the good work! -
#23 by Smokey Eddy on 22 Jul, 2010 17:00
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Porting is a must. Get rid of the lip you feel around the ports on the valve side.
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#24 by gnavs on 22 Jul, 2010 23:32
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gnavs!
there you are!
it's "fckreher99" from vortex.
good to see you doing well, keep up the good work!
Damn it's been a while!
PM'd -
#25 by gnavs on 22 Jul, 2010 23:35
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Porting is a must. Get rid of the lip you feel around the ports on the valve side.
Yup it's happening. Read thru that old Rabbit head porting document and it convinced me
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#26 by gnavs on 20 Aug, 2010 07:55
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Huge thanks to theman53 for sending me some main bolts. Finally got my crank back in.
and here's where she sleeps....
Hope to be doing some head porting this weekend but I may have my hands full fixing a rad leak on my super wicked awesome neon beater
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#27 by theman53 on 20 Aug, 2010 14:26
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Huge thanks to theman53 for sending me some main bolts. Finally got my crank back in.
Man my handwritting is better than I remembered
and here's where she sleeps....
Hope to be doing some head porting this weekend but I may have my hands full fixing a rad leak on my super wicked awesome neon beater
I think the 12.9 unbrako stuff is just as good as the ARP stuff for alot less $$$. It is what went into mine too. Good luck getting her going.
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#28 by gnavs on 22 Aug, 2010 17:11
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Thanks Lucas!
Anyways, I got the intermediate bearings in today using this techniqueQuote from: tawneyI've been jealous of Andrew's intermediate shaft bearing removal/installation tools since I saw his pictures of them; I had an engine completely dissassembled with the bearings removed, but no good way to re-install the new ones. I don't have a machinist friend, so I took my micrometer and started hunting for something that I could modify using my limited tools and skills. Here's what I found: a 1 inch black pipe cap works great after just a bit of careful grinding. It has a body diameter that is almost exactly the inside diameter of the larger bearing; the cap even has a flange at the end that's a slightly larger diameter. First thread a short piece of 1" pipe in the end; it works well as a handle while grinding/sanding the cap. (I used a high speed right angle grinder with a new grinding disc so I could get sharp, square edges at the inside corner where the diameter steps up.) Then grind the casting marks off of the body of the cap so the bearing slides over it easily, and carefully grind down the diameter of the flange so it is smaller than the inside diameter of the machined bearing surface in the block, then drill a hole in the end of it for the threaded rod. It takes a bit more grinding to make the one for the smaller bearing, but it's the same process, and for $6 and about an hour or less you'll have the tools you need to remove and install both the intermediate shaft bearings.
Worked like a charm! Should have the entire rotating assembly installed once my piston circlips get here. -
#29 by GEE-BEE on 24 Aug, 2010 07:13
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1.9 aaz complete
Ebaygermany...
I did find a new local complete for 275.00 in the box with a valve cover and gasket, I sent to extrude a hone for port and polish, 575.00 later it's done
I have another used head let me know...
GB