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#15
by
ffgb
on 25 Apr, 2010 21:23
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Well, I still have the new one coming in on tuesday. The computer at the dealership said "hexhead", but does that mean I get the hexhead bolt or the 12 point bolt? Is it possible to use the old one to set everything up, like the timing belt and pump timing, then take off the old bolt and install the new one when it comes in, or will the timing gear sprocket wobble under pressure without a bolt there?
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#16
by
Rabbit79
on 26 Apr, 2010 00:04
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I have no idea on that one. Usually whenever I've ordered parts if a part has been superceded by a new one the computer will show it and direct you to the new part. Guess you'll just have to wait and see.
As for using the old bolt for set-up purposes........if it were me I'd prefer to wait until I had everything in it's final configuration and torqued down properly. That's just me though. It's only 2 extra days until you get the new bolt.
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#17
by
fatmobile
on 26 Apr, 2010 09:56
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A hex head bolt with a shoulder,
like the one you posted a picture of,
is a 1 time used TTY bolt.
Hex without the shoulder is reusable. Probably no longer available because they went to the shouldered TTY.
I reuse the non-shouldered ones.
If anyone ends up using the new 12-point bolt,
get a 3/4" breaker bar and extension.
I twisted my 1/2" drive extension trying to give the bolt another 1/2 turn.
Crazy high torque.
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#18
by
Rabbit79
on 27 Apr, 2010 10:03
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For the benefit of an old geezer who is not savvy in internet speak.......What does TTY stand for? (Yes I checked the page that defines abbreviations....this one wasn't on there)
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#19
by
rabbitman
on 27 Apr, 2010 10:27
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For the benefit of an old geezer who is not savvy in internet speak.......What does TTY stand for? (Yes I checked the page that defines abbreviations....this one wasn't on there)
Torque To Yield
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#20
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 27 Apr, 2010 12:14
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I have my crank bolt sitting on the desk in front of me as I write this. My motor is also an 84 with a JK engine code. The only difference I see is the washer and the top of the bolt. The top of my bolt is not recessed, just flat across the top, so no significant difference there. The washer on mine is stepped down to a smaller size though, so it's way different. My crank gear is the type that's held in place by a woodruff key. I understand there are differences on the type of gear that pulls the timing belt? so check that.
i believe the woodruff key only came on very early engines. a couple of my 1.5's have the woodruff key too. im not sure if its 1.5 specific tho.
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#21
by
truckinwagen
on 27 Apr, 2010 12:39
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1.5 and early 1.6
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#22
by
ffgb
on 29 Apr, 2010 17:09
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Well, the new bolt is a six point hex with shoulder or as the reps at the dealership say, a built in washer. So what is the torque setting on this. In the Bentley, I am reading 148ft lbs lubricated. If this is a TTY bolt, it doesn't say anywhere for an additional 1/4 or 1/2 turn. So I am guessing just torque to 148ft lbs and call it good? What is the best lubricate to use, motor oil, loctite, or ARP moly grease?
Thanks
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#23
by
fatmobile
on 29 Apr, 2010 20:15
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How does the bolt compare in length,
to the old one?
Andrew I think my last bolt was 12 point, you use a 6-point socket??
Was wondering if you've used one of the 12-point crank bolts?
ffgb, I might have missed it, what is your block code?
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#24
by
ffgb
on 29 Apr, 2010 21:16
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Same length bolt. My engine code is JK. Stock bolt is hex head with shoulder, just like new one, according to the dealership. I spoke to the parts technician over the phone, because I won't be able to pick up the bolt till saturday. He said it was 6-point. I guess the only way to know for sure is to pick it up on saturday.
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#25
by
fatmobile
on 30 Apr, 2010 10:37
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That 12point bolt is shorter,.. had me confused for awhile,.. until I realised it gets used without the washer.