Now this is just what I remember reading. I have a VW/ toy 5 speed combo, but it's going in a tube chassis (hope this month). So I don't have to worry about working around stock.
So. I've seen alot of guys had problems with the VW power steering pump, and alt clearing the toy steering box. Most look like they just space the steer box out from the frame some. Nothing that you can't figure out.
this build has a ton of good info.
http://yotatech.com/f162/vw-diesel-build-up-135203/ I got alot of my info to make the adaptor plate from it. There is missing info in the prints posted that I have filled out in my copies. After making two adaptor kits I think you would have to be stupid, or just make too much money to buy one
I overcame the powersteering pump clearance issue by running the toyota pump on the passenger side. The stock high pressure hose actually reached so no special hoses were required. My vw alternator on the stock aaz bracket fit well with no clearance issues.
410, I'll plan on hitting you up on the accessory particulars prior to mounting the motor. You've been super helpful so far - Thank you!
The only real difference in my project is that I'm in Texas and need to retain the AC system. I don't know if that means the toyota compressor or the VW compressor yet.
On the toyota the AC is partially controlled by an RPM counter, so the tach signal must be converted.
The tach signal was fairly easy. I wanted my factory tach functional. I ended up using the ignitor and coil from the 22re to build my own tach signal amplifier. I built a pickup on the vw harmonic by making two notches on the backside with a generic crank sensor. It took a long time to figure out how to get it to work until I realized that the coil itself is needed to amplify the signal. I can give you more details when the time comes.
The tach signal was fairly easy. I wanted my factory tach functional. I ended up using the ignitor and coil from the 22re to build my own tach signal amplifier. I built a pickup on the vw harmonic by making two notches on the backside with a generic crank sensor. It took a long time to figure out how to get it to work until I realized that the coil itself is needed to amplify the signal. I can give you more details when the time comes.
I may do that. The tach signal of the 1988 is funky, on the scope it looks like a high voltage DC signal (if I recall right) - peaking at around 60v - again, based on memory.
Guys that have done EFI replacements say there is an MSD tach adapter for use in these vehicles, which may be the easier way to do it.. Any normal tach (to ground?) signal can drive the adapter.
Have you figured out where in the rpm range you are going to need to power? You going to be a daily or rock crawl? Makes a big diff in turbo selection.
It's largely a "fun" vehicle - minor height modifications.. Stock gearing, 31" tires. 3100 RPM highway.