Cleaning valve pockets - page 1 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Cleaning valve pockets by somolovitch3 on 14 Feb, 2010 08:04
• Okay, having read all four pages from search, HOW does one clean the area under/above the valves in the 1.6 head?
  
  I steam cleaned the head after taking it apart, there is still crud in this area. Use a copper/brass cup wheel on a drill (1-1/4 inch size or smaller)? Some kind of sandpaper flapper thing? Or maybe a chemical cleaning agent?
  
  Any and all info/help is apprectiated.
• #1 by NintendoKD on 14 Feb, 2010 09:35
• I dissassembled the head and used a MEDIA, not sand, MEDIA blaster to remove all of the carbon and crap.  the media is a specially designed round pellet/bead that doesn't take but surface dust etc, off of the surface that you want it to.  Worked wonders, see the pics in my build thread if ya don't believe me.
  
  kevin
• #2 by GEE-BEE on 14 Feb, 2010 09:36
• HOT TANK ,
  
  Gee-Bee
• #3 by somolovitch3 on 14 Feb, 2010 11:18
• So were should one look to find media for blastin? I have a "blasting" unit.
  
  Tank of hots costs $. 
  
  
• #4 by NintendoKD on 14 Feb, 2010 11:28
• Depending on the shop that does it, acid tanking shouldn't cost a fortune.  You can buy media/bead, not sand, at hardware stores.  I have three 100lb bags of sand for blasting but that isn't the right stuff, remember to wear breathing pro. don't want to wind up with silicosis.  They usually are sold in grades mine was a med grade, however ask the guys in the store and I'm sure that they can help you better select the product for you.
  
  Kevin
• #5 by somolovitch3 on 14 Feb, 2010 12:58
• The really sucky part is that I work 7:30 am to 6:00 pm  (okay, that is the time away from home) and trying to get things to and then picked up from shop gets..................
  
  I still have to get my mounts (with the new rubber {sortof} new, not rubber) back from that shop. Mon - Fri 8am to 4pm.
  
  So ask at local hardware stores for ... will glass beading work? I know I can get that on the week end.
  
  Thanks for all the help!
• #6 by VW Smokr on 14 Feb, 2010 14:44
• Glass beading is somewhat easier on aluminum, due to the rounded particles, but it can still mess with sealing surfaces. Try oven cleaner & let it sit in there for a while. Once softened a bit, the carbonized crud may come flying outa there with Scotchbrite cookies on a die grinder or drill motor. Gloves n' goggles highly recommended!
  
  As far as 'blasting' compounds, walnut shell media is supposed to do a good job without tearing up or even work-hardening the surface. These guys are not a great distance from you & do 'soda blasting'   http://www.stewartspecialtyservices.com/    They may have something for you.
  
  Good luck on the project.
  
  J.R.
  SoCal
  
  
• #7 by somolovitch3 on 14 Feb, 2010 15:19
• Scotchbright cookies? Avalable from the Girl Scouts? Guessing 1" dia cutouts of the green pad?
  
  Thanks for the help.
• #8 by theman53 on 14 Feb, 2010 16:25
• 
  
  It is called rolocs. The maroon and blue are best for not harming the surface of aluminum. 2" are the most popular...I need to become a vendor and sell these to you guys:D
• #9 by NintendoKD on 14 Feb, 2010 17:17
• Yeah, those things are awesome, need a die grinder with the right nose though, when rebuilding i use the soft ones "blue" to clean contact surfaces.  Don't suggest these for inside the ports, I'm stickin with media, if you are smart, like I know you are, you will use a grinding compound and reseat your valves before you finish anyway to avoid sealing problems.
• #10 by somolovitch3 on 14 Feb, 2010 18:17
• The forth and back on the valves is a given, just want to get the crud in the way of the in-ys and out-ys
• #11 by RadoTD on 14 Feb, 2010 18:39
• I'd actually try to find a plastic blasting media. It doesn't create any heat, doesn't pit anything. I've used it stripping paint off of panels and it would take bondo off, but you could still see scratching from ~80grit on the metal before they painted it. Doesn't create any heat, so panel warpage is non existent.
• #12 by macka on 14 Feb, 2010 19:27
• Hot tanking like GB said works and is cheap, media blasting is also good. I don't like using flap wheels or scotch brite pads. They can be too abrasive and damage the surfaces on those little innies and outties.
• #13 by Rabbit on Roids on 15 Feb, 2010 07:46
• Quote from: theman53 on 14 Feb, 2010 16:25

  
  
  It is called rolocs. The maroon and blue are best for not harming the surface of aluminum. 2" are the most popular...I need to become a vendor and sell these to you guys:D
  

  
  Whizzy wheels!... those things are the $#!T for cleaning aluminum.
• #14 by somolovitch3 on 15 Feb, 2010 12:24
• Is this a good thing? And I would need something in the 1" range. Will be trying the oven cleaner...today? maybe latter this week.