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#30
by
anto
on 23 Mar, 2010 05:48
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+1 for needing a boost controller.
I blocked off my wastegate pipe and my little gt15 would hit 30+psi by about 2.5/3k rpm and that certianly wasnt good for it. It wouldnt be practical for me to drive it like that as any full throttle action (overtaking etc) would be kamikaze for the little turbo. I was also getting turbo stall at that level of boost which again wouldnt help the longevity of the gt15.
Ive since made my own boost controller and its set to 21/22psi.
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#31
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 23 Mar, 2010 07:24
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boost controllers are a very good idea, especially when you can build an adjustible one for about 5 bucks.
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#32
by
Smokey Eddy
on 23 Mar, 2010 09:24
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boost controllers are a very good idea, especially when you can build an adjustible one for about 5 bucks.
Do share =D
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#33
by
anto
on 23 Mar, 2010 09:42
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Eddy google DIY Dawes device and it will show you how to make one with a few plumbing supplies.
Mine cost me £10.
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#34
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 23 Mar, 2010 19:29
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Eddy google DIY Dawes device and it will show you how to make one with a few plumbing supplies.
Mine cost me £10.
what he said, or look for DIY boost controller. i pulled my initial ideas off some honda forum. my bleed hole is also adjustible in size.
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#35
by
burn_your_money
on 23 Mar, 2010 19:42
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Since you say that it goes right up to 15psi and stops indicates to me that you either have a problem with the wastegate opening or the overboost protector (BOV) still opening. Are you 100% certain that it (BOV) isn't leaking?
On the off chance, maybe you have a hole in your intake manifold gasket, but I'd say that is pretty unlikely.
Is your air filter clean?
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#36
by
jpedro
on 24 Mar, 2010 11:52
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The BOV is non functional, the end hole was filled with jb weld just incase and the actuatore spring was replaced with a bolt. as far as leaks i couldnt tell you to be honest as far as the main line from turbo to intake i doubt that leaks its fairly new and no visible marks on it, the only thing i can see happening is the wastegate stuck open a bit, even though i totally removed the line from it, ill attempt to rip off my downpipe to inspect it and see how many bolts there i brake hahaa. any other ideas?
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#37
by
jpedro
on 24 Mar, 2010 16:38
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i just took of my downpipe, broke one bult in the turbo. Fixed that
couldnt see anything but a hole at the bottom of the housing for the turbo which leads to the wastegate. but couldnt actually see the wastegate.
so i looked for the bolt to tighten the waste gate spring. found it removed it totatllly to clean up the threads, was tightening it up and the part where the threads are on the canister of the wastegate poped out, i can move the spring back and fourht with a screw driver, now i have to figuree out how to fix that. but how does that thing work? when the spring is all the way to the pass side of the car no preasure will that build less boost then it would if it were tight with the screw in with presure against the spring?
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#38
by
jpedro
on 24 Mar, 2010 22:20
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i dont have a picture of the part that broke off, if you look on the end of your wastegate on a kkk turbo, theres the bolt with a allen head on the end for the adjustment. well its the bung that was either brazed or soldered into the copper casing of the W/G that came out, i jb welded it back in which was fine, tightened the bolt back in there and for a while i could go over 15psi around 18 or so and now it stop at about 14 psi so im guessing that my W/G is still stuck open some how. how can i totally ditch that thing, and ill put my own BOV inline with a intercooler? and the other thing is i cannt get to the two allen bolts holding on the actual W/G actuator. how the hell you get them out? any sugestions please.
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#39
by
jpedro
on 24 Mar, 2010 23:38
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ok cool thanks, and once i get it out what should i do to fix it whats the best route? so that i dont have to do the way i mentioned.
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#40
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 25 Mar, 2010 07:51
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It's been at least a couple years since I've had one of the KKK turbos and so my memory is a bit foggy, but I was under the impression that the threads to the wastegate screw were inside the top of the can. That's why I was asking for a picture. The top of the wastegate can is also mild steel, not copper. If it were mine I would weld a new nut to the can. Other options would include carefully undoing the crimp of the can and pulling of the top and installing (glue or weld) a nut to the inside so that it was pressing on the can top rather than being held by the glue, or you could try to find someone with a knackered version of that turbo to steal the wastegate from. If you go that route, bear in mind that the K14 and k24 wastegates are not interchangeable even tho they look the same externally.
the wastegate is steel, and it does have a nut thing in the top. and a set nut on the stud you thread in to adjust the gate.
take the WG out of the turbo, and take your air compressor and blow some air into it. should atleast move it.
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#41
by
vanbcguy
on 25 Mar, 2010 09:29
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Using a BOV for boost control is a bad idea. It would basically be a big boost leak and hurt engine efficiency and the way it dumps boost really hurts drivability.
Just to add to that, when the BOV pops there's nothing pushing back on the compressor wheel anymore, so the turbo can hit CRAZY high speeds very easily. The idea of a wastegate is it reduces the drive pressure on the exhaust turbine, thereby reducing RPMs of the turbines. The BOV has the exact opposite effect, it makes it way easier to spin the compressor.
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#42
by
jpedro
on 29 Mar, 2010 01:49
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just did a 1200+km trip this weekend, no wastegate or bov enabled pump adjusted, burnt a tank n a half of fuel, but never seen over 13psi no matter how hard i was on the throttle, i was going along a flat spot at about 160km/hr and about 14psi was the highest it read, i think my wastegate is garbage, and i cant get it out to clean the seat for it or block it off, what the heck do i do...... other then that i only had a minor issue, my alternator was over charging cause my heater blower died and was drawing some crazy amps... so i went to shut off the blower cause it was smokin and smelt nasty and i found out my switch control had melted, good thing where i was happend to have a wrecker full of imports so i got a new control and blower motor all for 45.00 good deal i figuree.
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#43
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 30 Mar, 2010 07:47
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just did a 1200+km trip this weekend, no wastegate or bov enabled pump adjusted, burnt a tank n a half of fuel, but never seen over 13psi no matter how hard i was on the throttle, i was going along a flat spot at about 160km/hr and about 14psi was the highest it read, i think my wastegate is garbage, and i cant get it out to clean the seat for it or block it off, what the heck do i do...... other then that i only had a minor issue, my alternator was over charging cause my heater blower died and was drawing some crazy amps... so i went to shut off the blower cause it was smokin and smelt nasty and i found out my switch control had melted, good thing where i was happend to have a wrecker full of imports so i got a new control and blower motor all for 45.00 good deal i figuree.
you got a boost leak somewhere. did you mechanically block the BOV? like put a bolt in it and screw the cap back on there? or did you put a cap on the outside nipple? what turbo are you running? if its a T3 you can check to see if the WG is working right with it still on the engine.
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#44
by
jpedro
on 30 Mar, 2010 13:50
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I did mechanically block the BOV with a small bolt. and put the end cap back on it. i belive its either the K14 or 24 turbo its got the honey comb looking gadget around the wastegate and i do belive the wastegate is stuck open slightly and i cannt get it out so what should i do just scrap this whole idea?