-
#15
by
rabbitman
on 22 Dec, 2009 12:37
-
That doesn't sound possible to me, the hydrolock would've happened on the compression stroke so the valves wouldn't be opening.
If it happened during the exhaust stroke the valve would be opened untill real close to tdc and unless there was a puddle of coolant just sitting on the piston when the valve closed.....but it would've had to get there during the power stroke and stay there during the exhaust stroke, I can't really see that happening......
-
#16
by
Possum79
on 22 Dec, 2009 13:20
-
But I had three broken lifters and only one from the cylinder in question. It doesn't explain the other two.
-
#17
by
fatmobile
on 23 Dec, 2009 21:41
-
A 1.5 rod should be easy to find.
Lots of people parting them.
-
#18
by
Possum79
on 24 Dec, 2009 09:48
-
A 1.5 rod should be easy to find.
Lots of people parting them.
Theres a few for sale I saw in the forsale section. Im waiting for one guy to get back to me about that short block but it looks like Im going with someone else.
One more question would you guys recommend I replace all the lifters due three being broken? I was thinking that the others could now be weaker. I dont know how the others broke so im just concerned.
Also I saw a thread on what bolts to replace as one time use kind of thing but I cannot find it anymore. What bolts do I NEED to replace or recommend replacing.
-
#19
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 24 Dec, 2009 11:25
-
if its a 1.5, it has no stretch bolts to my knowledge. the torque sequence for the bottom end is straight forward, no torquing till xx ft bls and then 90* blah blah blah... shouldnt need any bolts unless there are some broken.
-
#20
by
theman53
on 24 Dec, 2009 12:41
-
Also I saw a thread on what bolts to replace as one time use kind of thing but I cannot find it anymore. What bolts do I NEED to replace or recommend replacing.
I would just go to head studs for that. I have heard the 1.5 was bad for headbolts. I think its in the FAQ, but I am sure I heard the studs are the same ones for the 1.8 8v gassers.
-
#21
by
Turbinepowered
on 24 Dec, 2009 13:27
-
ARP:# 204-4701 <- 11mm headstuds for a 1.5 diesel. Highly recommended.
-
#22
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 24 Dec, 2009 17:34
-
1.5 bolts are not nearly long enough for the clamping force needed from them. they thread in what, like a whole whopping 3/4 of an inch, if that? anyone know how long the threads are on the studs that threads into the block?
-
#23
by
maxfax
on 24 Dec, 2009 19:25
-
The head studs thread into the block a tad over an inch IIRC.. I think it was like 1 1/8"... Head bolts thread in there a shy half inch at best.. IMO head studs are required on these things.. Before going too far check you block out for cracks.. If the head has already been removed and installed using the bolts it is possible that it could already be cracked... Yes they are that bad...
Here's the FAQ on this
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=21948.0If you have no luck on finding a rod I think I still have a set around.. I believe they still have decent pistons with them too...
If your block is cracked there's some nut job in the IDI section who repaired one.. Highly un-reccomended procedure..
-
#24
by
Possum79
on 24 Dec, 2009 22:50
-
Block looks fine as far as cracks haven't taken it fully Apart yet to get it checked over. I already reinstalled the head once with new bolts and didn't have issues. I want studs but don't think it will be in budget although I'm not in a huge hurry to get this back on the road.
-
#25
by
maxfax
on 25 Dec, 2009 01:26
-
It usually isn't terribly difficult to see the cracks with the naked eye.. The 4 corners head bolt holes , and on the IP side of the engine the 2nd and 3rd ones in from the flywheel are the culprits... Once in a while you do get lucky though.. I think I had 1 out of 4 11mm engines not crack.. Did you do a retorque on the head bolts?
I've also been noticing that it's usually the 1981 1.6 engines that are the worst for cracks.. But it could just be due to the number of those around versus pre 1981 1.5 engines...
-
#26
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 25 Dec, 2009 09:26
-
my grandpa and i have at least 7 or 8 cracked 11mm blocks, both 1.5 and 1.6.
-
#27
by
rabbitman
on 25 Dec, 2009 22:19
-
my grandpa and i have at least 7 or 8 cracked 11mm blocks, both 1.5 and 1.6.
Send 'em to maxfax!!!!
-
#28
by
maxfax
on 26 Dec, 2009 04:00
-
Ya know, if I knew my bubble gum job would hold for the long run I would be kicking myself for all the lesser cracked 11mm blocks I have scrapped... Of course the one that the whole corner broke off of would still be nothing more than a paper weight..
I kinda suspected that the 1.5's were equally as bad, I just don;t see as many of them around here.. 1981 must have been a good year for VW diesel sales in Central PA..
-
#29
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 26 Dec, 2009 09:08
-
my grandpa and i have at least 7 or 8 cracked 11mm blocks, both 1.5 and 1.6.
Send 'em to maxfax!!!!
lol, no thanks, these things need to be melted down and turned into turbo blocks. im trying to get him to stop screwing around with those old blocks and go to 12mm. he has or had a 12mm 1.6 in his truck, im pretty sure its still in there actually. but he was working on a 1.5 the other day. he brazed the corner of the block back on. (front corner, drivers side of block). brett, was your block cracked so bad that pieces were missing, or just slight cracks in the holes? either way, he thinks hes going to re use that engine cause he says it has low miles on it. but i guess we are going to see what works better, braze, or nickel rod. im thinking the nickel rod is gonna be the fix.
and wasnt 1981 the first year of the 1.6? and wasnt it the first year that they built cars in the usa? and didnt they have a plant in pa or somewhere over there?