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#15
by
mystery3
on 11 Dec, 2009 20:11
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While on the topic of turbo sizes etc, anyone know much about the t3's from bmw e28 524td?
Specs are as follows:
A/R of the turbine is 0.36 and the A/R of the compressor is 0.48. Also, the compressor is a 50 trim wheel with a 42.2mm inducer and 60mm exducer.
To big, small, laggy? I can't find a compressor map.
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#16
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 12 Dec, 2009 07:43
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Yes, a K24 turbo and running 44psi. I know, I know, its not good for it, but its not boosted for more than maybe 2-3 seconds. So far so good. I will be using the Mec. T3 turbo on the drag engine.
holy hell, 44 psi? intercoolerd or not? im just getting ready to put a K24 on my 1.5. you wanna race one of these days josh? and how bout that timing gauge? still let me time my car if i come up there? i need to reseal my pump and put a new timing belt on there.
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#17
by
NintendoKD
on 12 Dec, 2009 10:11
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the question remains, is all of that boost useable? can I still have good power on the start when does it start spooling?
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#18
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 12 Dec, 2009 10:40
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my K24 started spooling at about 2000 rpms once i put the boost controller on it.
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#19
by
NintendoKD
on 12 Dec, 2009 13:16
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hmmmm not too shabby
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#20
by
NintendoKD
on 12 Dec, 2009 18:03
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ok, what is the more common name for the k24? so I can find it.
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#21
by
theman53
on 12 Dec, 2009 18:14
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KKK K24
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#22
by
NintendoKD
on 13 Dec, 2009 14:45
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so the descizion is between a 16/22 hybrid and a 24? which is better I can run lots of boost as my static comp rat. is 17.5/1 with 1.6 l of displ. I need to get a little more input on this from the experts before I do some buying research and actually get one. Shoot, I may just get both and try one and then try the other, anyone wanna let me borrow theirs?
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#23
by
rabbitman
on 13 Dec, 2009 17:22
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so the descizion is between a 16/22 hybrid and a 24? which is better I can run lots of boost as my static comp rat. is 17.5/1 with 1.6 l of displ. I need to get a little more input on this from the experts before I do some buying research and actually get one. Shoot, I may just get both and try one and then try the other, anyone wanna let me borrow theirs?
I don't think it's anywere near 17.5/1 CR, it would be a PAIN to start being IDI and all.
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#24
by
NintendoKD
on 13 Dec, 2009 21:45
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check my build page, it will be about 17.5/1 static comp...... and yes, I do know that it will be a pain to start in the mornings, block heater anyone?
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#25
by
rabbitman
on 14 Dec, 2009 00:07
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check my build page, it will be about 17.5/1 static comp...... and yes, I do know that it will be a pain to start in the mornings, block heater anyone?
I forgot if are you doing 1.6 block, 1.5 crank rods and stuff with a 1.9 head, or if you decided to use all 1.6 bottom end stuff and a 1.9 head. I was thinkin' 1.6 bottom and 1.9 head.
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#26
by
NintendoKD
on 14 Dec, 2009 06:19
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yup, sorry bout that, the label should prolly change then huh? How about the k24 coupled with a supercharger setup? I think that the best for the low to high is going to be the 16/24 hybrid, however, if I want to have my cake and eat it too then I will need an exotic setup. I will have to look at the S/C options for this, I have seen twin charger setups before, mine will have to be a little different. I will have to use meth injection to keep egt's down. Hmmmmmm. C02 cooled intercoler......... yeah, that would work pretty good but be exspensive
I think that FOR NOW, that the 16/22 hybrid will work best for my purposes and later down the road I'll upgrade to the S/C meth inj. and C02 spray method.
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#27
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 14 Dec, 2009 09:19
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so the descizion is between a 16/22 hybrid and a 24? which is better I can run lots of boost as my static comp rat. is 17.5/1 with 1.6 l of displ. I need to get a little more input on this from the experts before I do some buying research and actually get one. Shoot, I may just get both and try one and then try the other, anyone wanna let me borrow theirs?
I don't think it's anywere near 17.5/1 CR, it would be a PAIN to start being IDI and all.
if you are looking for a vnt 16/22 or 16/24 hybrid, you will be looking for a long, long time. i think ive seen VNT17/20 hybrids tho. heres a way to look at it, a VNT is going to be very expensive, and very complicated to get the vaines working properly. or you could go with a normal turbo, it would be much cheaper, and much simpler.
and i thought we already went over this, didnt your engine come out to have like 15 or 16 to 1 compression? your engine is not going to run right with that little compression. your dropping almost 10 points of compression from stock 24.5 to 1. the air in an IDI diesel has to be VERY VERY hot to fire the diesel when its cold. just rebuild your 1.6 bottom end and throw the 1.9 head on it. it should be perfect. didnt you say that motor has almost no wear anyway?
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#28
by
NintendoKD
on 14 Dec, 2009 11:41
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I am running the 1.6 bottom end, that's why I said that I said that I should change the title, because it is deceptive the vnt is better because of the early"er" bottom end response I am willing to spend the dough, it is worth it to me. still looking for info on the rover boost pin too. line bore and hone and I'm having it hot tanked too for good measure "I want to paint it"
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#29
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 14 Dec, 2009 17:03
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I am running the 1.6 bottom end, that's why I said that I said that I should change the title, because it is deceptive the vnt is better because of the early"er" bottom end response I am willing to spend the dough, it is worth it to me. still looking for info on the rover boost pin too. line bore and hone and I'm having it hot tanked too for good measure "I want to paint it"
i would just look it over, it may not need to be rebuilt. thats fixing something that aint broke. thats not cool. and you still have to figure out how to control the vains of the turbo, you dont just bolt on a VNT and have it work. it needs a fairly complex control system. try doing a search on how some people have controlled their turbos. some of the builds are super complicated.