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#60
by
maxfax
on 29 Dec, 2009 17:33
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I guess this could qualify as normal fail..
Still don;t know about the oil thing.. I haven;t suctioned the oil out of the tank for several hundred miles.. I could just be residual oil still working it's way out.. I did give it a good flushing before I put antifreeze back in after the epic failure of not tightening the heater hose
. I guess we'll have to wait and see what floats to the top.....
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#61
by
ToddA1
on 29 Dec, 2009 17:51
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If you're not seeing dye, I wouldn't think it's getting past.
The decreased mileage could be attributed to the fact that it's cold as hell, your timing is off and you were burning a lot of WMO, too.
I saw a decrease of about 5 mpg when it started getting really cold.... is that normal?
-Todd
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#62
by
maxfax
on 29 Dec, 2009 18:43
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If you're not seeing dye, I wouldn't think it's getting past.
That's what I'm thinking.. I don;t know if the antifreeze would do anything odd to the dye or not...
The weather went from 40's and 50's to teens and 20's the week I did this.. However I only really check my milage during the cold weather when I can;t be running WVO and WMO and all that stuff.. So I don;t really know what exactly I was getting pre-bubblegum as it was still warm enough to run the cheap stuff....
Last winter I was averaging around 43mpg under these conditions.. Lately I've been getting about 36.. I know the timing isn't what it was.. It just plain doesn;t sound the same.. My injectors are much older than I remembered too.. About 140K miles since they were rebuilt.. And they have been spraying all sorts of nasty stuff for more than half of those miles.. I need to give my main man Marvin a jingle and see if he can get me a couple sets rebuilt.. I need some for the new engine too..
This would be the first in I don;t know how long that I have absolutely no fuel leaks, maybe my expectations are just off..
5 mpg drop sounds about right for cold weather on winter fuel...
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#63
by
NintendoKD
on 29 Dec, 2009 23:00
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ooh, hook me up with marvins info, I need a set of rebuild 1.5 injectors too, no time to rebuild em' myself
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#64
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 30 Dec, 2009 14:37
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buy some new ones. someone on here was just saying about how you can get new bosch units for 42 bucks and some change each. just put some 1.6 turbo injectors in it. your using a turbo pump anyway.
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#65
by
maxfax
on 30 Dec, 2009 20:30
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It probably wouldn;t be all that cost effective to ship a set of injectors all the way here and back for a rebuild.. I already have a few sets of nozzels (but no friggen heat shields on hand!?!).. I need to get myself a pop tester made.. But then again when he'll throw me a set of injectors together for $20 (me providing the parts of course) I'm not overly motivated to make one.. We throw a bunch of work each other's way, it works out nice...
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#66
by
NintendoKD
on 31 Dec, 2009 00:13
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kidding, no jack intended, and also very good to know.
thanks
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#67
by
maxfax
on 04 Jan, 2010 19:15
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A little over 1300 miles in..
I've been dumping, cleaning, and refilling the expansion tank on a weekly basis.. No signs of the UV dye I put in the engine oil.. The amount of oil does seem to be dwindling.. Fingers crossed...
I finally got around to playing with the timing.. I timed it by ear, and a tad of trial and error, mileage and power are back where it was pre bubble gum. Once I got it there I threw the gauge on it just to see where this one likes to run.. Seems pretty happy at 1.02mm..
Now the question remains, how long coudl I push this thing in my daily driver???
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#68
by
burn_your_money
on 04 Jan, 2010 19:42
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I don;t know if the antifreeze would do anything odd to the dye or not...
Could you throw some dye in some antifreeze and see what happens?
Glad to see she's still running
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#69
by
maxfax
on 04 Jan, 2010 19:51
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I did try mixing some of the dye and antifreeze together.. Since the dye is petrolium based it didn't mix real well, the dye just kinda floated on the top.. It did still react to the black light though.. The antifreeze does to a certain degree as well. I should try heating the mix and see what happens..
Of course I don;t know if it'll make much difference.. I pulled my dipstick and sutck it under the black light.. The dye doesn't show up so well in black diesel oil.. Maybe I'll try a double dose and see what happens...
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#70
by
mtrans
on 05 Jan, 2010 12:48
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#71
by
NintendoKD
on 05 Jan, 2010 14:47
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WOW!
the previous owner of my car used this, I don't know if it helped because my H/G is currently off and the coolant is completely drained, but I remember the previous owner mentioning something like this. wish I could give a good product review
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#72
by
maxfax
on 05 Jan, 2010 15:38
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I've actually had hit or miss luck with these various sealers.. Or if nothing else they woudl work temporarily.. Still not sure if I am getting new oil in the coolant.. THe amount of oil is decreasing, so it just may be oil from before I tried fixing this..
THe problem in the scenario is that the oil is under higher pressure than the coolant.. Most of these sodium silicate based sealers are added to the coolant and have to push their way thought he leak.. In this case the oil would be pusing it's way to the coolant.. And I think we all know what sodium silcate does to an engine when added to oil.. (C.A.R.S. anyone?)
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#73
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 06 Jan, 2010 10:13
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one time, my buddy used to have a nissan pickup, and it had a pretty bad low spot in the deck of the block, but the engine still ran REALLY good, so we decided to just try and do the head gasket to get it to stop leakin, no luck. so, on the 3rd head gasket, we decided to smear aviation sealer on the deck and on the head. then we torqued everything down and fired it up with no water in the block till there was aviation sealer running down the sides of the block. needless to say, it heald water just fine till he got rid of it. that fix lasted atleast 3 years. i just highly doubt that anyone is ever gonna get that engine apart again. the head is as close to welded on as we could get it, haha.
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#74
by
maxfax
on 12 Jan, 2010 17:32
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2500 Miles down..
I think I'm at the point where I can call "FAIL" to a certain degree.. I can;t see any signs of dye in the coolant, but then again it doesn't show up in black diesel oil either.. Still getting a slight bit of oil in the coolant..
I would think by this point residual oil should be pretty well worked out... I would say I'm still getting a fraction of an ounce per tank of fuel or 450 miles.. I can pretty much tilt the expansion tank and sop the oil out with a paper towel through the fill...
It's definitly MUCH less than it used to be, but I *think* it still happening.. My guess is the oil is making it's way past the threads on the stud and leaking out the lower end of the hole where I couldn't do much for the crack, other than slather JB weld on it.. I used Hylomar as a thread sealer, perhaps a more robust thread sealer (jb weld
) would have helped..
I'm going to give it about another month in the car before I swap engines so maybe It'll prove me wrong.. Either way I'm not unhappy about the results.. It'll be more than adequate to power my welder/generator..
On another subject, any opinions on running an air compressor off the front of the crank?? I swiped the compressor and tanks off a truck and will have plenty of room to mount it on this rig... It's the earlier style crank with the key for the TB sprocket..