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#60
by
Doakster
on 25 Oct, 2009 20:21
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It could be a lot worse. At least you've isolated the problem. I personally don't think you'll find anything with the turbo. As long as it spins free, I can't see how it can cause 15 MPG worth of discrepancy.
Let us know how it goes.
Yeah I can only hope a new pump solves it. I'm kinda looking forward to a new pump, she's gonna have a little more get up and go after Giles is done with it.
I don't think it's the turbo either, i've checked it multiple times, everytime it spins very freely and has zero play in the shaft.
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#61
by
Doakster
on 26 Oct, 2009 05:01
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By zero play i mean that it's not extremely noticeable, maybe a couple of thousands play, just not noticeable enough for me to see when i grab on to the shaft/compressor and move left-right-up-down
The shaft does spin very freely and smoothly.
Sound about right?
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#62
by
Doakster
on 29 Oct, 2009 14:51
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Ordered LDA pump from Giles today, set of gauges on the way.....we shall see.
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#63
by
Doakster
on 31 Oct, 2009 17:10
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By zero play i mean that it's not extremely noticeable, maybe a couple of thousands play, just not noticeable enough for me to see when i grab on to the shaft/compressor and move left-right-up-down
The shaft does spin very freely and smoothly.
Sound about right?
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=21899.msg170547#msg170547
A K14 should be very similar. Still even if it is not, if it spins freely, then it's very unlikely that it is causing your drop in fuel economy.
I know mine does not have that much play, not even close. But like i said it spins freely and smoothly like butter. And it doesn't rub the housing.
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#64
by
Doakster
on 05 Dec, 2009 07:35
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Look what arrived today, new TD pump and injectors from Giles, time to get to work.
Couple install questions though. I notice two locations for electrical connections, one just above the injector lines (just like my eco pump), for the fuel shut off valve and also one down toward the bottom of the pump (my eco doesn't have that connection) what's it for and does it need to be hooked up.
Also when reinstalling the pump, do you simply put on the pulley and lock in your pump locking pin to get approximately the right timing then go though the actually timing? I though there were marks on the pump and where it mounts to engine that are supposed to be lined up?
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#65
by
Giles@PerformanceDiesel
on 05 Dec, 2009 07:58
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Hi Andy
glad you got the pump/injectors ok. they look like they survived the trip.
connect the bottom solenoid with constant power if you don't want the light load (partial throttle) retard for the advance to function.
or you can put a switch on it inside the car to have power to it or not when you want it on or off.
with it off it functions so that you have retarded timing duringlight load throttle for quieter running and maybe better fuel economy.
when you put your foot down it doesn't do anything with 12v to it or not same difference.
so start with no power to it and see how you like it then connect 12v and see the difference.
timing is always set with the dial indicator gauge after setting the basic belt position and tension, set it to .95mm
Giles
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#66
by
rabbitman
on 05 Dec, 2009 10:44
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There should be marks on the pulley and bracket, line 'em up then pin the pulley.
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#67
by
Doakster
on 05 Dec, 2009 14:47
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Hi Andy
glad you got the pump/injectors ok. they look like they survived the trip.
connect the bottom solenoid with constant power if you don't want the light load (partial throttle) retard for the advance to function.
or you can put a switch on it inside the car to have power to it or not when you want it on or off.
with it off it functions so that you have retarded timing duringlight load throttle for quieter running and maybe better fuel economy.
when you put your foot down it doesn't do anything with 12v to it or not same difference.
so start with no power to it and see how you like it then connect 12v and see the difference.
timing is always set with the dial indicator gauge after setting the basic belt position and tension, set it to .95mm
Giles
Thanks Giles, I have a hunch that based on what you described I'll like the pump with out the 12V to the solenoid, for the better mileage at light load. So I'll leave it unconnected for now.
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#68
by
Doakster
on 05 Dec, 2009 14:48
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There should be marks on the pulley and bracket, line 'em up then pin the pulley.
As far as the "bracket", you are referring to the fixed bracket that the pump actually mounts to correct?
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#69
by
Vincent Waldon
on 05 Dec, 2009 15:51
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Don't sweat looking for marks on sprockets... often not there, and not needed:
Basic belt timing is set by:
- cam sprocket loose
- cam locked at TDC with cam lock plate
- pump sprocket locked at TDC with pump lock pin
- crankshaft at TDC mark on flywheel
- cam sprocket tightened
Actual pump timing is set to 0.95mm using a dial indicator as per the service manual or here:
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28
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#70
by
Doakster
on 05 Dec, 2009 16:25
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Don't sweat looking for marks on sprockets... often not there, and not needed:
Basic belt timing is set by:
- cam sprocket loose
- cam locked at TDC with cam lock plate
- pump sprocket locked at TDC with pump lock pin
- crankshaft at TDC mark on flywheel
- cam sprocket tightened
Actual pump timing is set to 0.95mm using a dial indicator as per the service manual or here:
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28
That's basically what i planned on doing, except i have to swap out my old pump pulley from my eco pump on to my new pump. And what I wanted to make sure of is that by simply rotating the pump pulley so that i can lock in the pump pin (with all the other conditions above mentioned), i should be good to go, then tighten up my timing belt and cam pulley bolt, then start in on my pump timing with my dial indicator. Correct?
By the way i have used your write up on checking/adjusting timing a bunch of times, very good write up.
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#71
by
Quantum TD
on 05 Dec, 2009 23:25
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Be sure to empty the guts on your ECO diesel cat if you're running that pump. You may end up having issues.
Good luck.
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#72
by
vanbcguy
on 05 Dec, 2009 23:43
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I SERIOUSLY need to do that... I've got a 1.6 running with a "tad" more fuel than stock dumping through an AAZ cat. Wanna bet it's causing me some grief?
Thing is right now I'm trying to find a new house... and my exhaust is in one piece... Almost wish the damn thing would rust out so I had an excuse!!
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#73
by
rabbitman
on 06 Dec, 2009 00:02
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Don't sweat looking for marks on sprockets... often not there, and not needed:
Basic belt timing is set by:
- cam sprocket loose
- cam locked at TDC with cam lock plate
- pump sprocket locked at TDC with pump lock pin
- crankshaft at TDC mark on flywheel
- cam sprocket tightened
Actual pump timing is set to 0.95mm using a dial indicator as per the service manual or here:
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28
Yeah that would be fine but if it's like my pulley it's got two holes that the pin fit's in, mine has the mark though.
I guess you could point the keyway the right direction but I forgot what that is
.
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#74
by
Doakster
on 06 Dec, 2009 08:07
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Be sure to empty the guts on your ECO diesel cat if you're running that pump. You may end up having issues.
Good luck.
Already done, 2.25 down pipe and 2.5 in exhaust already installed.