Diesel fuel line - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Diesel fuel line by calituner on 28 Sep, 2009 08:21
• im replacing the lines on my 80 caddy. i need to know what fuel lines to use to go from the tank to the metal hard lines. i have acces to standard rubber gas fuel hose, transmission cooler hose which is thicker walled, and standard gas fuel injection hose. is it safe to use the standard gas fuel line or will the diesel eat it up? im not planning on a veggie diesel or running biodiesel anytime soon. but i cant find an answer to my question... Is using gas fuel line from say... pepboys safe to use with diesel fuel
• #1 by GEE-BEE on 28 Sep, 2009 08:50
• yes no problem...
  
  I removed my fuel pump and acumalatlor and used those lines and cutoff one end and replaced it with a barb fitting for the swap on my fuel tank lines.
  
  I have a 81 gas caddy that Iam just finsihing the AAZ swap
  
  Give a call if you need help, office 800-556-3160
  
  Iam in H.B. ( O.C. )
• #2 by arb on 28 Sep, 2009 09:00
• I used coated 5/16" brake lines and Goodyear fuel line. Works well and vill stand up to the chemicals.
• #3 by calituner on 28 Sep, 2009 09:08
• i also noticed the metal lines are 5/16 but on the tank one is 5/16 and other looks to be 3/8. no problems with 5/16 all around?
• #4 by arb on 28 Sep, 2009 09:11
• Quote from: calituner on 28 Sep, 2009 09:08

  i also noticed the metal lines are 5/16 but on the tank one is 5/16 and other looks to be 3/8. no problems with 5/16 all around?
  

  
  I think you're right... Thinking back, I think the 5/16" was my return line and the supply was 3/8" :-)
• #5 by calituner on 28 Sep, 2009 09:19
• ugh then why didnt vw make the metal hard lines to the pump 3/8th aswell.  
  oh well.  ill snake some 5/16 and 3/8 line from work and start her up.
  
  i has having a problam with no fuel. the return line i could blow air into... but the supply wasnt getting fuel and actually was creating vacuum in the supply line. i could see fuel go into the IP but when i stopped cranking it sucked in back into the fuel filter. im thinking the PO had tank lines mixed up. or maybe i had lines mixed at under hood point. i removed fuel cap so i know its not faulty tank ventallation. does the return line in the tank have a check valve? or could it be that the baffle has come loose and is blocking the supply line?
• #6 by calituner on 28 Sep, 2009 17:55
• no input?
• #7 by lovinthedeez on 28 Sep, 2009 21:20
• sounds like there is air in your lines.  one time when the little seal fell on the ground to my fuel filter during a change, I tried to bleed the air out of it for days. Air kept going back UP the line towards the air filter.  found the gasket on the ground, put it on there (where it screws on), and BAM.  It bled right out.  check the lines to make sure the connections are all real good and tight.
• #8 by truckoSaurus08 on 29 Sep, 2009 03:38
• The rubber hoses that come off the tank to the metal lines are both metric I.D. .But you can get away with it by using standard size fuel line. Gas fuel line is ok. That's what I used.
• #9 by arb on 29 Sep, 2009 04:20
• You might want to double clamp where the metric meets the US... with extra force on the last clamp. I have never seen a check valve in the tank other than the fill tube on newer models.
• #10 by calituner on 29 Sep, 2009 07:57
• well last night i hooked up the fuel lines. poured back the red diesel that was in the tank back in just to see if it worked... It did, she rumbled to life but damn even with fresh motormounts all around itll rattle the bolts off everything. i did a timing belt but didnt have the dial indicator to set the IP timing. could this possibly be my issue? i havent really checked oput the basics like compression and stuff like i should. i probably should have since i swapped the engine from the rabbit to my caddy
• #11 by arb on 29 Sep, 2009 08:24
• Absolutely a rough idle when warm can be timing... The tool can be had for about $50 on ebay and elsewhere. Or, pay someone to do it.
• #12 by Rabbit TD on 29 Sep, 2009 18:18
• Quote from: calituner on 29 Sep, 2009 07:57

  well last night i hooked up the fuel lines. poured back the red diesel that was in the tank back in just to see if it worked... It did, she rumbled to life but damn even with fresh motormounts all around itll rattle the bolts off everything. i did a timing belt but didnt have the dial indicator to set the IP timing. could this possibly be my issue? i havent really checked oput the basics like compression and stuff like i should. i probably should have since i swapped the engine from the rabbit to my caddy
  

    If you like tinkering with these things you definately need to get an indicator and a compression gauge.  Without them it's all guess work and usualy the wrong guess too   You can get avery good compression gauge at Harbour Freight for less than $30 for a set with different adapters for different engines and they work fine.  I've had mine for almost 20 years that I got from them and I saw the set advertised this past Spring for $29.  From what I remember that's what I gave 20 years ago and it didn't come with all the adapters this current one does.  It's not Snap-On but I'm not working on the Space Shutte either
• #13 by calituner on 30 Sep, 2009 07:57
• well a customer bought me a diesel compression tester as we figured we where gonna do a compression test on his 7.3 ford. and i sacked it up and bought the timing belt tool kit from baum tools thru my snapon guy. that lets me do vw and audi timing belts gas and diesel for 4cyl from like 70s to 2005. even came with the timing chain tensioner tool for the 1.8t and 2.8 v6 that i borrowed from my friend that used to work for vw. its a handy kit. just doesnt have a dial indicator for IP timing