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#30
by
maxfax
on 14 Sep, 2009 21:14
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Cracks between valves are normal.. As long as they are no wider than the thickness of a dime is the general rule of thumb....
IF there isn;t a horrendous ring ridge, a set of standard ole rings and some honeing will do the job..
I think it may have had a broken TB at some point.. Looks like some valve inprints in the crows of the pistons.. Meaing the head has has some variety of work done at some point.. Which also means it has been removed and insalled.. More reason to check around thsoe head bolt holes for cracks.. These generally crack upon torqing the head after a HG job.. ..
I know you want to keep this cheap, but all the best rebuild parts in the world aren;t gonna fix a cracked block..
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#31
by
NintendoKD
on 14 Sep, 2009 21:39
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broken tb? what's a tb I thought that diesels don't have throttle bodies there wasn't one connected to the intake???
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#32
by
NintendoKD
on 14 Sep, 2009 21:58
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that's after removing the cam right so that all of the valves close to check the valve seals, I planned on doing a three angle job on the valves, however, are they any good especially after valve slap like that? grr. soooo frustrating I just don't know anything about these engines can't wait for that bentley to come in.,
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#33
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 15 Sep, 2009 09:16
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honestly, its better to wait for the book, so you know exactly what you are doing when you do it. you can almost get by with just a haynes or chilton manual.
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#34
by
clbanman
on 15 Sep, 2009 09:32
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#35
by
NintendoKD
on 15 Sep, 2009 20:50
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sweet, awesome, thanks for the info bro. I'll look into that I am currently looking into getting some high tensile strength head studs for the rebuild, I know that they are 11mm however, what I do not know is the length, and the thread pitch for the studs. I checked at NAPA, and Auto Crap and neither have them in the correct sizes based on the bolts that came out, apparently 11mm is a very strange size. How do I know what notch the head gasket is and more importantly isn't this how someone could modify the comp. ratio? lower is thinner so I'm guessing that would make a higher compression ratio, right? can I do this for the rebuild or shouls I stick to what was in there?
Thanks,
Kevin
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#36
by
maxfax
on 15 Sep, 2009 21:07
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ARP makes the head studs, same as 8v gasser P/N 204-4701..
You'll need to measure the piston protrusion and select the proper thickness gasket... More compression is not necessarily a good thing with a diesel..
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#37
by
NintendoKD
on 15 Sep, 2009 21:14
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how do I know what notch is the one I have?.... I think I said that really wierd, How do I know which one I have. This measurement will have to occur after the rebuild, right? oh, and partsplace inc. has a better deal on a full rebuild wih timing kit and everything for 450.00 shipped roundabouts called them today waaayyy cheaper that the guys listed above and you get everything, not just a re-ring kit.
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#38
by
NintendoKD
on 15 Sep, 2009 22:13
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will this block work? it's a 1.7 but will it still work? no good? oh, woe is me
http://salem.craigslist.org/pts/1345706814.htmlI really want to get the ball rolling on this order the kit this week and have it finished by Fri next week. Mon is my birthday and I want to enjoy it doing something fun "not at work" should be on leave all of that week
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#39
by
maxfax
on 16 Sep, 2009 00:11
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Gasser blocks are not as strong as the diesel blocks AFIK.. Althoug by the looks of another post on here it has been done but it ended badly.. It is probably doable, but questionable at best...... And the 1.7 blocks still use the smaller 11mm head bolts and I woudl guess would have the same issues.. Ideally a mid 82+ 1.6 diesel block and head would be the way to go... But I know what you mean about them being scarce in the boneyards.. Around here I keep finding 1.5's and early 1.6s...
HG is identified by the number of notches.. THese notches would be on the side facing the front of the car to towards the driver side of the center oil return hole.. The measurement will have to be done once it is all put back together... Theoretically it shouldn;t change, but one never knows.. Good chance when the head was off someone just threw a thick gasket under there which works, but is not the best for optimal performance...
Take some time and check you the FAQ section, and the search.... Most anything you'll need to know till your bently arrives is out there...
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#40
by
NintendoKD
on 16 Sep, 2009 06:16
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the boneyard
...... well out here in the desert, there are no diesels in our boneyard except big, and I mean BIG! trucks like some industrial three tonners and bigger. Kinda strange I suppose for other boneyards buy not for this guy basically a pristine scirocco with all flat tires engine and all but all other VW's are stripped LOL a couple late model 12v vr6's but nothing in the diesel market. looks like I'm going with the 1.5 for this build. NOOOO! power build for this guy, reliability all the way.
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#41
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 16 Sep, 2009 07:23
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why do you want to screw around with an ancient gasser block? its closer to me than you are. for that amount of miles, just come buy a running 1.6 from me. haha.
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#42
by
NintendoKD
on 16 Sep, 2009 12:16
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Don't have the money or the means buddy, or else I would, how high can I get the comp safely/reliably? how hard is it to go turbo, and if, BIG IF, I do it it would be rather low boost, and intercooled like in the 1-15 psi range this turbo has a 5bolt flange and is wastegated with a vaccum actuator came off of an 240sx engine.
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#43
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 16 Sep, 2009 12:20
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ive got a 1.5 in mine. stock head bolts, stock reused head gasket. its intercooled and has a max of 28 psi boost. its the most reliable diesel ride i own.
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#44
by
NintendoKD
on 16 Sep, 2009 12:41
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I'm dropping around 500.00 into the car in rebuild costs, plus, the labor is al mine too, could I get 1,500.00 for it? or is that asking too much?