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Two evil bolts on the crankshaft pulley
by
ohc
on 11 Aug, 2009 17:21
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For the life of me I can't get 2 of the 4 allen wrench bolts off the crankshaft pulley. Terribly stripped and very seized. What are the ramifications if i drill them out. I assume i'll need to replace the crankshaft sprocket. Is that sprocket readily available? I'm new to this whole timing belt, IP removal process.
Thanks
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#1
by
catlin_cava
on 11 Aug, 2009 17:27
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EASY OUTS!!!! SIZE 10MM!!!!
I had the same problem
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#2
by
bvolks73
on 11 Aug, 2009 18:41
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Hammer and chisel or air chisel usually works to get them started. I've beat a torx socket in before too to get them out.
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#3
by
Possum79
on 11 Aug, 2009 19:02
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EASY OUTS!!!! SIZE 10MM!!!! I had the same problem
AHHHH I HATE EASY OUTS!!!! After having one break on me I strongly do not like them anymore. You have to think would you rather drill something soft like the allen head or something hard as hell like an easy out. If you can swing a hammer in there get a bigger allen head deal and hammer the crap out of it till it locks in there. Also hit the bolts with penetrating out before hand. if you can let it soak then do so.
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#4
by
ohc
on 11 Aug, 2009 21:55
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Thanks. Already one easyout stuck in #1 pain in my ass. I might try the smashing for the 'clean' (#2) stripped bolt. However, my #1 might require more drastic measures. I'm thinking i might have to rent a welder if drilling the whole thing out isn't an option.
I don't know penetrating oil very well but I've douched it about 5 times with some liquid wrench funk. Keep going?
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#5
by
truckoSaurus08
on 12 Aug, 2009 02:41
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#6
by
arb
on 12 Aug, 2009 05:27
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Hammer a 12 point 12mm socket over the head and ratchet it out. Also, one of the triple square spline wrenches works waaayyy better than an oversize torx if you want to go for the inside of the head. The 12 points are easier to pound in and grab better than the 6pt torx.
Andrew
Yes, hammering is your friend right along with HEAT. Heat that thing up - the hotter the better - and combined with the shock it will break free.
Sorry you had a bad experiance with an easy-out. Was it a high quality one or made in China ? I've used them for years on snapped bolts and never had one break - even on tiny 6 mm bolts.
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#7
by
theman53
on 12 Aug, 2009 05:29
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I like cutting the head off and pulling the sproket out then you can get to it with about anything. I haven't done it on the crank sproket, but on the CV ones I have used the air chisel to get them to spin until a regular tool would work.
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#8
by
jack's lack
on 12 Aug, 2009 07:31
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my method usually involves the PB Blaster (penetrating oil) a torch and a pair of slipjoint pliers (channellocks) or vicegrips. typically I need to repeat the heat & penetrating oil thing half a dozen times on a really stubborn bolt, but there is no sweeter sound the the creak made by a stubborn bolt that has just broken free. I have always wondered about easyouts.
What is the advantage of using socket head bolts if it seems they have such a propensity for stripping?
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#9
by
truckoSaurus08
on 12 Aug, 2009 08:47
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I'm convinced that the allen head's propensity for stripping is mostly due to not having the bit firmly inserted into the head to begin with usually due to crud accumulating in the hole. It is very rare that I strip out any allen heads, and whenever I do, it is still short work to get them out by either hammering in the spline wrench or hammering the 12pt socket over the head. Usually allen bolts are fitted where there is minimal clearance for the typical hex head bolts.
I agree, however there are those bolts out there that other people have screwed up. What I like to do is hammer the allen key or socket in the bolt making sure there is full insertion. It also pushes any crud out of there and "jars" the rust loose. Its also a good practice on Phillips screws that are rusted. But yeah, it's been a while since I had any problems with them, especially after following these practices.
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#10
by
arb
on 12 Aug, 2009 09:25
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I'm convinced that the allen head's propensity for stripping is mostly due to not having the bit firmly inserted into the head to begin with usually due to crud accumulating in the hole. It is very rare that I strip out any allen heads, and whenever I do, it is still short work to get them out by either hammering in the spline wrench or hammering the 12pt socket over the head. Usually allen bolts are fitted where there is minimal clearance for the typical hex head bolts.
I agree, however there are those bolts out there that other people have screwed up. What I like to do is hammer the allen key or socket in the bolt making sure there is full insertion. It also pushes any crud out of there and "jars" the rust loose. Its also a good practice on Phillips screws that are rusted. But yeah, it's been a while since I had any problems with them, especially after following these practices.
My thoughts too - in the world of a machinist, these are called "Machine Screws" or "Cap head screws" and are the morn on industrial machines because they are very reliable and allow for installation it tighter spaces.
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#11
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 12 Aug, 2009 10:19
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take a hammer and a punch. hit the bolt pretty hard right on the top edge at about a 45 degree angle. hit them about 2-10 times each, or however many blows it takes. works great tho. whoever put the crank pulley on my first 1.5, put the little bolts in at about 800 ft lbs.
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#12
by
ohc
on 14 Aug, 2009 07:58
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Thanks to everyone for the advice. I got them both out last night with some heat, hammering IN a torx socket and hooking up a big breaker bar. SO HAPPY! In this instance it wasn't possible to hammer a socket over the bolt or use the Bolt/Nut removers because of the proximity to the bolt holding the sprocket. Thanks again.