Governor mod spring - page 2 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #15 by theman53 on 19 Jun, 2009 18:03
• Great idea guys. I was going to use a nut, but the only ones I had were too big and would bind. I know 6mm is about a 1/4" so 5mm should be in range. Even if it could go more you will definately notice a difference.
• #16 by Dean Erickson on 22 Jun, 2009 15:50
• Here is what I found with the gov mod. the engine will rev a lot more and really puts out a black fog. Yes it has more power and is worth adding the 5 mm nut. It runs as normal untill you hold the pedal to the floor pulls harder in the upper rpms. I have no strange problems with how the engine runs. Here is a pic of the black mark I layed on the road.
  
  I now know I have a pos differential two black marks about 12 foot long I shifted into second gear and made one about 4 foot long. I am going to look into a temp gage for the exhaust gas. I don't want to burn up my new engine.
• #17 by Rabbit TD on 22 Jun, 2009 17:40
• Quote from: Dean Erickson on 22 Jun, 2009 15:50

  Here is what I found with the gov mod. the engine will rev a lot more and really puts out a black fog. Yes it has more power and is worth adding the 5 mm nut. It runs as normal untill you hold the pedal to the floor pulls harder in the upper rpms. I have no strange problems with how the engine runs. Here is a pic of the black mark I layed on the road.
  
  I now know I have a pos differential two black marks about 12 foot long I shifted into second gear and made one about 4 foot long. I am going to look into a temp gage for the exhaust gas. I don't want to burn up my new engine.
  

  That's a pretty little Rabbit, what year is it anyway?  Don't be too hard on that transmission too often, we have pretty weak pinion gears in these little creatures.  Check the BrokeVW site about transmission problems and their causes and our 020's are the weakest.  What are you using in the way of a clutch, must be a pretty good one and again I really like your Rabbit.  I'm a freak for them myself
• #18 by jwspin on 22 Jun, 2009 18:03
• from my experience and from the FAQ you should shim the intermediate spring so that its solid. it seems to help with throttle response. if you wanna raise your governed rpms then you shim the main spring. it looks like in the pic that you only shimmed the main spring?
  
  -jared
• #19 by theman53 on 22 Jun, 2009 19:06
• DO NOT SHIM THE INTERMEDIATE SPRING. Ask jimfoo, it makes it harder to drive. We need to clean the FAQ up so it says nothing about the intermediate spring at all. I think VW put it there for us to stumble on 30 years later.
  
  What I found by shimming the main spring I could use LESS fuel screw and get the same or more power. To me it seemed that since it wasn't starting to shut it off at 2,000 something RPM and completely killing it at 4,400 RPM it didn't need as much of the big bag fuel screw .
• #20 by jwspin on 22 Jun, 2009 19:11
• I havent done this for a few years but when you shim the main spring doesnt it push against the intermediate spring and basically shorten if not delete the spring travel anyway?
  
  -jared
• #21 by theman53 on 22 Jun, 2009 19:41
• 
  
  
  In these you should see the top one is missing the idle spring, but you should see that there is a collar that doesn't let the main spring push on the intermediate. I wish it were the other way because my fingers would have liked it better that way.
• #22 by Dean Erickson on 23 Jun, 2009 01:50
• ((((It has no effect on the intermediate spring)))) There is a c clip that seperate the two springs. The intermediate spring keeps the same pressure whan you mod the long main spring. It only compresses the long main spring. Don't mess with the intermediate spring!! It will make it harder to drive!!!!