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torque to yield and a couple other questions
by
thomcat
on 12 Feb, 2009 06:35
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I have disassembled my first diesel for rebuilding. 1982 rabbit 1.6 na .
One manual describes the rod bolts as torque to yield and the other does not. There is no flange on the nuts as described in other posts.Also the bolts have traditional looking "splines" to center the cap.
How else can I tell and do I resize the rods if you replace the bolts; like you should do in an american car?
One strange measurment though; My rod journals Mic out in spec for a 1.881 rod journal and both chiltons and the dreaded Haynes manual call for a 1.811 journal. Misprint? The bearings are stamped 5 81 with Vw part #089 701 A So Im assuming they are original.
Two of the pistons are burned thru to the ring landings directly under the combustion chamber insert!! What would cause this on a Na engine?
The previous owner said he put new nozzels in the injectors and timed the pump "by ear" Is it fair to assume this was the cause ? He put the injectors in so tight Im going to need a breaker bar to get then free!
Where can I get a good deal on Kobelschmidt pistons ? and who carries head studs?
thanks guys for your help
Thom
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#1
by
the caveman
on 12 Feb, 2009 06:56
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get a Bentley for the proper specs. Chiltons and Haynes take there info from who knows where and at best 3 hand info.
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#2
by
arb
on 12 Feb, 2009 06:59
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Is one of your manuals a Bentley? Its better than chilton for these engines. Can you post some photos of your bolts and pistions ? photobucket.com is free and easy to post photos. They will not spam you.
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#3
by
the caveman
on 12 Feb, 2009 07:04
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get a Bentley for the proper specs. Chiltons and Haynes take there info from who knows where and at best 3 hand info.
can you tell i haven't finished my first coffee? Chiltons and Haynes take THEIR info from who knows where and IS AT BEST THIRD hand info.
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#4
by
thomcat
on 12 Feb, 2009 07:23
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#5
by
Vincent Waldon
on 12 Feb, 2009 08:08
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Yikes. :shock:
The burn-thru you're seeing is from dripping nozzles... make sure you pitch all four of them as far away as possible. I'd be wanting to carefully inspect the head as well... particularly the pre-combustion chambers.
If you ever have the chance to take a sharper picture I'd love to add a sample to my "boys and girls, here's why you need to check your injectors" collection !!
Vince
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#6
by
CoolAirVw
on 12 Feb, 2009 08:09
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my info shows TD has TTY rod bolts but not NA. Some folks on this forum have reused TD rod bolts anyway.
I would rod bolts reuse on a NA.
Where can I get a good deal on Kobelschmidt pistons ?
Kolb pistons buy from Myke_w on this forum. (I bought mine from him)
Two of the pistons are burned thru to the ring landings directly under the combustion chamber insert!! What would cause this on a Na engine?
The previous owner said he put new nozzels in the injectors and timed the pump "by ear" Is it fair to assume this was the cause ? He put the injectors in so tight Im going to need a breaker bar to get then free!
Most likely cause of burned pistons is leaking injectors. Use new nozzles, have the injectors pop-tested, clean out fuel tank, flush out lines and keep a new filter in it, ect.
Overtightened injector bodies might distort the nozzle and make it leak. Meaning the injector halves, not tightening them into the head.
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#7
by
zukgod1
on 12 Feb, 2009 08:25
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He put the injectors in so tight Im going to need a breaker bar to get then free!
thanks guys for your help
Thom
DO NOT USE A BREAKER BAR!!!!!!!! :!:
I really need to use an impact (air) to get them out. You risk cracking the injector boss using a breaker bar.
Experience speaking here
I will second the comment on getting your pistons from Myke_W.
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#8
by
the caveman
on 12 Feb, 2009 08:35
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He put the injectors in so tight Im going to need a breaker bar to get then free!
thanks guys for your help
Thom
DO NOT USE A BREAKER BAR!!!!!!!! :!:
I really need to use an impact (air) to get them out. You risk cracking the injector boss using a breaker bar.
Experience speaking here
I will second the comment on getting your pistons from Myke_W.
Well talking from experience also, you can use a breaker bar, as long as it's done properly. Use an extension on the socket only long enough to keep everything square. Then make sure you are pushing against the head, not pulling away. I have seen heads broken with both a gun and bar. I have only ever broken one. Plus not everyone has a impact gun. If they are really really tight, and the head is already off, it will be harder. You can remove the glow plugs and spray some good penetrating oil under the injectors and let it soak a couple of days.
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#9
by
zukgod1
on 12 Feb, 2009 09:11
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I had always used a breaker bar, right up to the broken head....
Torque wrench is the closest thing my injectors will see resembeling a breaker bar going forward.
Just not worth the risk in my book.
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#10
by
53 willys
on 12 Feb, 2009 09:37
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yeah fixing broken injector boss's is not FUN AT ALL....welding dirty old oil soaked aluminum cast is not cool!! neither is all the labor it takes to pull the head...
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#11
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 12 Feb, 2009 15:54
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Use a 'T' bar with equal extensions to keep torque pure. If after injectors move it's still stiff then squirt wd40 etc and turn back and forth...
