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#15
by
jtanguay
on 07 Feb, 2009 14:06
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do you have the engine timing tools?
Sir, yes sir. I have the cam locking tool, pump locking tool, and timing guage. I'm not going in to this blind, its just blowing my mind 
I think i may be a tooth off because the cam and pump still allign together, so i believe i am off at the crank. I will go out right now and give er' another go. wish me luck, i need it lol
just remember, you install the cam loose after removing it AND following libbybapa's instructions on cleaning BOTH mating surfaces. this allows you to set engine timing, as well as the injection timing. don't worry about how it all lines up now. once you follow the right procedure, it will all fall into place.
and listen to Tyler as well. do NOT try to turn the engine over at this point! but i hope you already knew that :lol:
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#16
by
smutts
on 07 Feb, 2009 15:01
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This is one of my hated jobs. The european SB engine on mine has a sintered (ie, liable to shatter into a billion fragments when twatted with a hammer) camshaft sprocket, no problem says I, I have a super duper two or three legged puller which will make this a doddle. So which muppet decided on five holes in the sprocket? Prime numbers are a right pain in the arse in this situation, five legged puller anyone? Of course one could pull it on the edge, but then sintered and liable to shatter into a billion bits raises its ugly head. Or can these sintered castings be pounded with impunity? :twisted:
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#17
by
Golf/Jetta
on 07 Feb, 2009 15:28
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can't belive this howto isn't made yet on you tube
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#18
by
jtanguay
on 07 Feb, 2009 15:34
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can't belive this howto isn't made yet on you tube
TDIclub has one, but they want $$$ for it.
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#19
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Feb, 2009 15:40
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can't belive this howto isn't made yet on you tube
that would save a lot of headache and thrown items im sure..

I mean vince's write up is tits! and a very good display of knowledge and everything, but i think my incompetence and my certain situation has got me messed.
Quick question for you guys. I bought a set of timing tools right.. and each of the two locks cam and pump fit in with barely room to spare.. SO! if i have both locks in, and i can get the needle inside the looking glass (lol) to point to the line on the flywheel.. Then i have successfully got the engine at TDC right? i am overjoyed. i think, i don't know what to feel lol
Can i move on to pump timing now!? i am excited! Timing belts are a PITA
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#20
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Feb, 2009 16:08
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Ok i did the rotation, did not go past TDC. ip lock slid in beautifully, and the cam lock did sort of ok. here's what i bring for you from Affrika. or my garage lol.

TDC on the DOT.

Cam lock fits in.. but it only does so on a tad of an angle..

just another angle sort of of the previous picture
The lock slides in! but its the tiniest bit off... is that ok? or does it have to be done alllllllllllllllllll again

*** please tell me its an easy fix.. or its ok.... please please lol.
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#21
by
dillenger1
on 07 Feb, 2009 16:24
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that looks fine i do mine witha piece of bar stock thats a little small/there is some play in it but that seems locked.You can still losen the sprocket and turn the cam.
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#22
by
jtanguay
on 07 Feb, 2009 16:25
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looks like you have it bang on TDC
the cam lock should be as tight as possible. that doesn't look like the standard cam locking tool either. the tighter the better!
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#23
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Feb, 2009 17:12
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the cam lock should be as tight as possible. that doesn't look like the standard cam locking tool either. the tighter the better! 
I dunno, i bought them off; a site that Shan't be named :wink: (
website removed due to hatred amongst the people for said domain)
Sadly Andrew your post involves work

lol, whereas Dillenger and Jt say its fine, and im talkin like if the cam lock was i swear .005-.010" smaller it would slide freely.. lol Sooo i think i am not going to mess with what i've got and move on to the pump
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#24
by
Smokey Eddy
on 07 Feb, 2009 17:32
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oh god, IGNORE THE LINK! no one read it! no one say ... he who shant be named!
on a more pressing note, especially since it is now 90 minutes after the post...
is that blood all over the bellhousing and fly wheel? :| are you still with us Jer?
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#25
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Feb, 2009 17:51
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hahaha! yeah i'm still here

Can't kill the non-living. I just went all Goth on your asses there, did you catch it? lol
kidding, i am not Gothic and despise those who are. lol Naw, i took it in my liberty to spray a shot of red spray paint in there so i can see when i am coming up to TDC in the future.. pretty nifty i thought lol. sadly it did over shoot and get all over the housing as well.. oh well im not gonna cry about it, this isnt a perfection engine, yet one to experiment on!

Oh! did i hit a filling with the last post? :lol: my bad. lol They are ok quality i think.. i didnt buy them for quality, i bought them cause they were the cheapest and easiest to get to my door step lol. Well i just ate pizza, so i am good to once again venture out to the garage and set the pump timing.
This part, i hope should go seamlessly easier :lol:.
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#26
by
Smokey Eddy
on 07 Feb, 2009 17:58
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well i bought a whole head from him and all my gauges :roll: :lol: :lol:
It's just that... like .... f***ing.... heroshima all over again when anyone mentions those domain names.
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#27
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Feb, 2009 18:04
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Many performance tuners use the following:
- non-turbo pumps: 0.95mm to 1.00 mm (0.037" - 0.039")
- turbo pumps: 1.00mm to 1.05mm (0.039" - 0.041")
Stock Settings: Engine ME (1.6l non-turbo) 1986 and up 0.90 +/- 0.02mm
Unlike a gas car you can’t really hurt a diesel with a little bit too much advance… you just get more noise, less power, more emissions, and less fuel economy. If you go overboard the engine will be hard starting, sluggish, noisy, and possibly trail white smoke (unburned diesel).
So what would the advantage be of setting the pump that much more in advance? like stock is 0.90 whereas they recommend 0.95-1.00, what does the extra mm actually do? what would you set it at? what would be advantages to both settings?
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#28
by
Smokey Eddy
on 07 Feb, 2009 18:07
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advanced timing helps with starting but can cause knocking and i THINK (i may have this part backwards) gives a more high end power curve? The oppostite for retarded timing.
I think?
Too advanced can cause isssues though
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#29
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Feb, 2009 18:11
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so say i time it to 1.00 or the equivalent of .39 on my guage.. the top end of wat performance tuners do.. then i should be good eh? if not i just whip the guage out and adjust.. no biggy. Ill post back after to see if i got it running or not

LATER