Ok, ok! You Win! LOL
I know Turbo's are "da Bomb". Sadly there were none at a good price around here
SOO! i go N/a instead. I figure its better to start on an n/a (less complicated, and a little harder to blow up) so i dont ruin things too too quickly
Some people suggested i put a VNT on it with a modded pump, and it would be kick ass. lol i think that's i route i might wanna go. lol
Ok, ok! You Win! LOL
I know Turbo's are "da Bomb". Sadly there were none at a good price around here SOO! i go N/a instead. I figure its better to start on an n/a (less complicated, and a little harder to blow up) so i dont ruin things too too quickly
Some people suggested i put a VNT on it with a modded pump, and it would be kick ass. lol i think that's i route i might wanna go. lol
If you read in the Bentley book you will see that there are a lot of differences between how the N/A and the T/D differ such as piston cooling jets and different metal grades throughout the engine. Everything bolts up the same if you get the right manifolds and such but you can't go crazy with it and expect it to last but if you get an EGT gauge and not let it get too hot it probably would be OK. But yes it is better to stay N/A and learn them real good first before you complicate things. Kind of like putting 10 pounds of *** in a 5 pound bag and wondering why it's all over your shoes :lol:
Ok, ok! You Win! LOL
I know Turbo's are "da Bomb". Sadly there were none at a good price around here SOO! i go N/a instead. I figure its better to start on an n/a (less complicated, and a little harder to blow up) so i dont ruin things too too quickly
Some people suggested i put a VNT on it with a modded pump, and it would be kick ass. lol i think that's i route i might wanna go. lol
If you read in the Bentley book you will see that there are a lot of differences between how the N/A and the T/D differ such as piston cooling jets and different metal grades throughout the engine. Everything bolts up the same if you get the right manifolds and such but you can't go crazy with it and expect it to last but if you get an EGT gauge and not let it get too hot it probably would be OK. But yes it is better to stay N/A and learn them real good first before you complicate things. Kind of like putting 10 pounds of *** in a 5 pound bag and wondering why it's all over your shoes :lol:
Sadly yes, the td blocks were built to withstand far more abuse. thats cool, i would rather the milege over the power!
for now lol one day i will be a hungry turbo stricken lad as well. lol!
I've installed a few TD motors into MK1 NA diesel vehicles. If you're using a MK 2 as a donor for a MK1 install, these are the issues I know of:
The fuel filter needs to be relocated otherwise the turbo intake duct won't clear it. On factory Mk1 Jettas the fuel filter was mounted on the firewall by the glow plug fuse. Also the Mk2 air filter box will not fit so you'll need to get a cone type filter and use that with an adapter tube on the MK2 intake duct.
The exhaust is not the same. The cast iron elbow for the turbo outlet used on factory MK1 cars is different than the one used on Mk2 cars. The easiest way to fix this is to use a downpipe from TT tuning, but it's probably not the cheapest way. The stock downpipe on a Mk1 TD is different from a MK1 NA. Check Bosal's online catalog and you'll see.
I'd use all the coolant piping from the MK1 car on the TD motor. You'll have to buy different coolant lines for the oil cooler but it makes for a much simpler install with no jury rigging.
i used a mk2 td cast downpipe on my mk1, it fits but you have grind a good bit off of thetoilet bowl thing to clean the shifter,
if you have the td motor i'd check compression and use which ever is best. but really id rather burn up an na motor or w.e
I just did this with my 81 jetta, with a td from a 91. There is one hose thats kind of goofy. One from the heater core to the metal piece that goes to the water pump is two different sizes. I just cranked a hose clamp on it so hopefully it seals.
Im doing a mk2 dash swap also so I have the diesel tachometer as well. Which will be much tougher than the engine swap Im thinking.
And like others have said, new downpipe. Might as well build a nice big one. And while its out, put a pyrometer in the manifold.
CAs
Those oddball and expensive, different size hoses like the one you're talking about and the 3 outlet one on the oil cooler can easily be made yourself with different sized barbed brass fittings and hose clamps from Lowes ect. I think that oil cooler one alone is like $70 from Parts Place, I don't think I have $5 in the one I made.
That's how I'm doing mine too. I don't see value in those expensive hoses becaue they didn't do a good job of managing flange sizes.
The correct bypass hoses for the oil cooler on mk1 turbo diesels are 51 bucks delivered from autohausaz.com. I prefer the clean look of OEM parts myself. Just my 2 cents worth. When I do a project like that I like to tear into it, size everything up and make one order for everything I need from them. OEM quality parts at wholesale prices. I would like to see a pic of your engineered bypass lines if you have some.